In a surprising move from the conservative watchmaker, Rolex has quietly set up Rolex Quantum SA, a new entity dedicated to atomic timekeeping, the most precise form of timekeeping ever invented by man.

Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour will sit on the board of Rolex Quantum, with engineer Fabien Droz serving as director of the venture. With Rolex Quantum, the watchmaker plans to develop and sell atomic clocks, conceivably for industrial or scientific purposes. Being somewhat removed from the core Rolex offering of wristwatches, the atomic clocks will be developed separate from the main Rolex brand.

The new venture strengthens the brand’s ties with CSEM (Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology), the Swiss technical institute most famous in watchmaking for having developing silicon component for watch movements. The venture will benefit from Rolex’ broad industrial research and development capabilities, while also leveraging CSEM’s experience with atomic timekeeping.

The establishment of Rolex Quantum was first reported by Swiss newspaper Arcinfo.

Neuchâtel timing

Despite the cutting edge nature of its work, Rolex Quantum will be located on historic grounds, namely on the same street as the Neuchâtel Observatory, which is current home to CSEM’s atomic timekeeping laboratory.

The location also has historical resonance as the city has long played a role in watchmaking and chronometry over the years. Abraham-Louis Breguet was born there and the observatory was instrumental in chronometry trials. The fact that Rolex Quantum will develop the next generation of ultra-accurate atomic clocks on the same block as the storied Observatoire Astronomique et Chronometrique de Neuchâtel is fitting. 

As for the actual products that will be developed there, Rolex remains elusive when it comes to details. Judging by the corporate organisation and the lack of publicity, a reasonable assessment is that Rolex will build industrial-grade atomic clocks, meant for scientific and metrology purposes. The resulting products probably won’t be available to the public, unlike say the AMC from Urwerk. 

Judging by papers presented last year at a scientific convention, Rolex together with CSEM developed a new system of master atomic clocks, prototypes of which were tested with the help of METAS. The Rolex timescale system was built to incorporate a new Rolex Rubidium Optical Atomic Clock. The entire development is centred around rubidium-based atomic timekeeping, which so far has proved even more stable than caesium atomic clocks. 

Image of the prototype clock extracted from the paper “Development of a High-Performance and Swiss Based Rolex Timescale System Including a Unique Optical Atomic Clock”

The prototypes were set up at two Rolex sites (Geneva and Bienne) and served as master clocks for its internal timebase. Each prototype device stands about 19 in tall (or about 48 cm) and runs for 24-7. One paper suggests the prototypes deviated by less than 300 picoseconds (one picosecond is one trillionth of a second) after one week.  

The creation of Rolex Quantum suggests that the trials were successful and Rolex sees an opening in the niche market of atomic timekeepers.

Though seemingly unusual for Rolex, the atomic timekeeping venture is in keeping with recent moves at the brand, which has been quietly expanding in substantial ways. The expansion of the watchmaking powerhouse can be taken as a proof of the brand’s resilience and long term strategy.

The brand is the majority owner of movement maker Kenissi – which is also essentially the Tudor manufacture – and continues to grow and consolidate its operations across Switzerland, most recently with a production facility at Bulle. The same holds true even in terms of product. Rolex took a major step forward in wristwatch timekeeping with the modern, forward-thinking Land-Dweller earlier this year.

As the summer holidays begin for many collectors around the world, we take a look at some of the standout summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2025.

While there’s no formal definition for what constitutes a ‘summer watch’, we focused on models that are robustly built and expressive in their designs, colours, and materials. With options ranging from just US$1,850 to over US$400,000, our list will have something for almost everyone.

Under US$5,000

First up on the budget end of the spectrum is the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph, which comes in a variety of colours and materials. Affordably priced thanks to its set-and-forget solar-powered quartz movement, the Solargraph is the spiritual successor to the brand’s iconic Formula One collection, which debuted in 1986. The launch of the Formula One collection was a turning point for the brand, which had recently rebranded as TAG Heuer following TAG Group’s acquisition of then-struggling Heuer.

The Solargraph is available in several colourways, and sits easily on the wrist thanks to its 38 mm size and 9.9 mm thickness. For the case material, buyers can choose between stainless steel, with brushed or DLC-coated black finishes, or colourful plastic known as Polylight.

All models are rated to 100 m of water resistance, as even the plastic-cased models feature an internal stainless steel case and screw-down steel case back. I’m partial to the red version (ref. WBY1161.FT8086) as it doesn’t take itself too seriously and can be seen as a nod to Heuer’s historical connections to Scuderia Ferrari.

The relaunch of the collection in 2025 also makes sense as TAG Heuer recently reclaimed its position as official timekeeper for Formula 1, and became the first-ever title sponsor of the famous Monaco Grand Prix. Furthermore, with global interest in Formula 1 surging in recent years, the value of the F1 brand has never been higher.

A cynic might point out these watches have little to do with racing beyond the marketing, but Heuer’s ties to the culture of motorsport go way back; under Jack Heuer’s leadership, the company became the first watch brand to sponsor an F1 team back in 1971. These kinds of cultural bona fides are vanishingly rare at the Solargraph’s price point of just under US$2,000.

Next up is one of the most surprising watches of 2025, the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. It’s easy to feel jaded about the continued onslaught of integrated bracelet sport watches, but the Loco punches well above its weight, featuring an architectural new calibre and impressive finishing.

The Loco is a big step in the evolution of the Christopher Ward brand, which has been pushing upmarket recently with models like the Bel Canto that defy ‘entry level’ norms for design and complication.

The Loco features a 41 mm stainless steel case and is available on an integrated steel bracelet or a rubber strap. I recommend the rubber, as it’s unusually supple and helps the watch avoid the trap of looking too much like everything else.

The case is fairly thick at 13.7 mm, but this includes the domed sapphire crystal that sits up high above the case, creating space for the dial-side theatrics. The crystal is also worth mentioning in the context of the meager 30 m water resistance rating, which might seem low for a sport watch.

In fact, the watch features a reassuringly solid screw-down crown and the water resistance is limited mainly by the faceted crystal, which wasn’t engineered for the crushing pressure of deeper depths, but is more than sufficient for the pool or beach club.

The thickness is well-justified, since the CW-003 movement is quite unlike anything else at the Loco’s price point of US$4,595. The CW-003 is a manually wound calibre with two massive mainspring barrels visible through the transparent case back, which together provide a six-day power reserve.

Flip the watch over, and the brand’s first-ever free-sprung balance brings life to the dial, which displays the hours and minutes on an off-center sapphire display.  The movement is not only visually striking, with sculpted steel bridges and cocks supporting the major component groups, but the finishing is head-and-shoulders above its microbrand peers.

Rounding out the entry level category, honourable mentions go to the Albishorn Thundergraph and the Laventure Marine Type 3, which tap into the notion of ‘imaginary vintage’ in different and interesting ways. The Thundergraph features a novel monopusher chronograph designed by Sébastien Chaulmontet, and the Marine Type 3 references early quartz marine chronometers for its design, and weighs less than 50 g on its elastic strap thanks in part to its grade 23 titanium case.

Under US$10,000

A step up in price affords access to the Tudor Pelagos Ultra, which is arguably the highest spec dive watch in the brand’s history. Though the title of deepest diving Tudor is still held by the short-lived and little-loved Hydro 1200, the 1,000 m-rated Ultra is powered by a far more advanced in-house MT5612-U movement that carries the Master Chronometer designation. For those who love chunky overbuilt dive watches, the Ultra is an appealing option at US$6,100.

Housed in a fully brushed 43 mm titanium case, the Ultra measures 14.5 mm thick and has the purposeful feel of a precision instrument. This sizing gives the Ultra inherent wrist presence, but the restrained monochromatic design and matte textures keep it from making a spectacle of itself, which tends to be the case with some rivals.

Naturally, it includes all the familiar touches of the Pelagos line: a ceramic bezel, snowflake hands, brushed titanium bracelet, and plenty of lume, including on the adjustable T-fit clasp.

Ceramic is an increasingly popular material in luxury watchmaking thanks to its scratch-resistance and capacity for colour, which makes it easy to look at a watch like the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Lake Tahoe and think the brand is jumping on a fad, but the facts are more nuanced.

IWC was an early pioneer of zirconium oxide watch cases as far back as 1986 when the brand introduced the white ceramic Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3755-05. This lineage gives the brand’s ceramic watches like the Lake Tahoe a degree of historical continuity that latecomers can only dream of.

The Lake Tahoe is light, bright, and delivered on a rubber strap that is ready for anything you might get up to this summer (though the white textile shell might need some cleaning from time to time).

Priced at US$8,500, the Lake Tahoe is a fresh take on the brand’s famous pilot’s watch, managing to thread the needle between fashionable and timeless. If I could change one thing about this watch, it would be the unnecessary Top Gun branding that adorns the solid case back, but I could live with it considering the dial is unblemished.

Inside, the Lake Tahoe shares the same cal. 32112 automatic movement as the pricier Ingenieur, though it must be said the same movement is available for even less from sister brands within the Richemont stable. Still, the 120-hour power reserve is a great feature if your summer plans are anything like mine and involve doing as little as possible.

Under US$20,000

Rolex tends to dominate the conversation at Watches & Wonders, but this year they actually earned it by introducing the Land-Dweller, one of the most over-engineered sport watches ever developed. Truly the watch of the summer, Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour was recently spotted wearing one at Wimbledon. The Land-Dweller is notable for bringing back the Oysterquartz-style integrated bracelet design, but it excels most in ways that aren’t immediately obvious.

The Rolex Land-Dweller, shown here in platinum

The real story is the new silicon Dynapulse escapement that makes its debut in the cal. 7135. The first Rolex movement to tick at 5 Hz, the cal. 7135 benefits from 16 patents, making it quite unlike any other movement in the brand’s collection.

Rolex is a very conservative brand and has dabbled in silicon before on a limited scale, namely the Syloxi hairspring, but the brand is now clearly convinced that this technology is mature and ready for widespread use.

While the US$63,500 platinum model is shown, the white dialed variant in steel can be had for just US$14,900, which I’d say is a stellar value.

What’s more, the polarising design and somewhat awkward Land-Dweller model name narrowed the field of prospective customers, which might make it easier for technically-minded or contrarian collectors to pick one up without too much hassle.

Summer is usually a time for kicking back and having fun, which might explain Grand Seiko’s new ‘Tokyo Lion” edition of the Tentagraph, ref. SLGC009G.

Featuring a massive titanium case with aggressive, angular details, the Tokyo Lion retains the high-beat modular cal. 9SC5 chronograph  movement that made its debut in 2023. The styling of this watch is almost outrageous by the normally restrained standards of Grand Seiko, but in a world of lookalike integrated bracelet watches, the Tokyo Lion is a breath of fresh air.

We have to start with those pushers, which are serrated to mimic a lion’s paws. Like the case, they feature angular forms with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces. Overall, the case measures 43 mm and a whopping 15.6 mm thick, but weighs a manageable 139 g thanks to its titanium construction.

Wearing comfort is enhanced by the soft rubber strap, delivered in a similar shade of brown as the embossed dial. In keeping with the lion theme, the inside of the strap has been stamped with a paw print to aid air circulation. Ventilation channels are common with rubber straps but rarely do makers get so creative with the design.

The Tokyo Lion is the very definition of ‘wrist presence’ but at US$16,900 it doesn’t offer the value proposition that many expect from Grand Seiko. That said, the Tentagraph movement is highly differentiated from its Swiss peers and contains the brand’s proprietary direct impulse escapement that extends the power reserve to 80 hours. It also features a free-sprung balance and an overcoil hairspring, something that’s all but extinct at this end of the market.

Under US$50,000

Hublot is brand that elicits strong emotions, and despite getting occasionally dragged on social media for being overpriced or derivative, the brand has earned many devotees thanks to its bold designs and use of innovative materials like recycled tennis racquets and multi-coloured ceramics.

The new Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic demonstrates the brand’s ongoing leadership in the field of ceramics, which are difficult to produce in vibrant colours. In this case (pun intended) the ceramic cladding has been given a high-gloss finish that resembles high-end automotive paint, differentiating it from ceramic watches from the likes of Audemars Piguet, and the pastel mint green colour helps tone down the overt masculinity of the design.

While Hublot has a reputation for making large watches, the 42 mm Big Bang case hugs the wrist and should be manageable for most, although the folding clasp is not an ideal fit on some wrists.

And those who take the plunge will be rewarded by some of the best chronograph pushers in the industry, which are immensely satisfying in both appearance and operation; even if the design isn’t your cup of tea it’s worth experiencing the smooth texture and crisp break when starting or stopping the chronograph.

Speaking of the HUB1280 Unico movement, most of the major component groups are visible through the open-worked dial, including the column-wheel and anti-backlash gearing for the horizontal clutch, which makes for an engaging visual treat.

That said, there are a couple things I’d change given the retail price of US$24,100. First, I’ve always wished Hublot would use a free-sprung balance in the Unico platform, not least because the brand teased this feature in the original movement prototypes.

Second, the injection-moulded plastic mid-case is a little rough around the edges. These shortcomings aside, the vibrant colour, glossy texture, technical styling, and differentiated movement make the Big Bang Mint Green Ceramic pretty convincing on the wrist.

I vividly remember the first time I put on the Ulysse Nardin Diver Air, and of all the options on this list it would be my go-to holiday watch. Its appeal is rooted in its lightweight case, which weighs just 46 g without its 6-g velcro strap.

There are lighter watches, but none are true divers like the Air. Numbers aside, the watch feels almost weightless, perhaps due to the expectations created by its large visual size, and is effortlessly comfortable on the wrist.

So how did they make a proper dive watch that’s 44 mm by 14.7 mm thick weigh as little as a dozen sheets of A4 paper?

It starts with a titanium case and bezel, which is clad with Nylo, an upcycled polymer-carbon composite material. The ruthless search for weight-savings continues inside to the UN-374 automatic movement that itself weighs just 7 g thanks to its efficiently engineered open-worked design and titanium bridges.

The Air features many appealing details, from the exposed magic lever bi-directional winding system, to the bold notches on the bezel that feel great to the touch. There’s also a fun Easter egg on the case back: instead of the usual “Swiss” designation that’s commonplace, Ulysse Nardin went a step further and engraved the coordinates for their headquarters in Le Locle.

Of course, being a Ulysse Nardin, the Air capitalises on the brand’s expertise in silicon technology; the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel, and pallet lever are crafted from silicon, which helps improve isochronism and reduces the need for lubrication. But while the watch weighs just 52 g all told, it’s not for lightweight budgets, priced at US$38,000. This pricing might be a challenge, since visually the watch has a lot in common with the brand’s own Diver X collection, which is priced lower but lacks the extraordinary wrist feel of the Air.

US$50,000 to $150,000

Someday we will be able to talk about the Cubitus without having to mention the outcry that accompanied the collection’s launch late last year, but we’re not there yet. In short, Patek Philippe’s new square-shaped collection of elegant sport watches proved to be a hit with the brand’s A-list clientele but the 45 mm sizing left some Nautilus fans scratching their heads.

Enter the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G, which debuted at Watches & Wonders in a new 40 mm size that should convert many skeptics. The new Cubitus feels reassuringly dense thanks to its slim white gold case and bracelet, which drapes over the wrist in a way that will feel familiar to those who’ve worn a Nautilus in precious metal.

The Nautilus theme continues on the dial, which features the familiar embossed sunburst finish and lozenge-shaped hand set of its predecessor. But the octagonal bezel, which is basically a square with faceted corners, gives the Cubitus its own identity. The resemblance is probably incidental, but the shape reminds me of Place Vendôme, the location of the Patek Philippe boutique in Paris.

Naturally, the finishing is excellent inside and out. While it’s true that the cal. 26-330 S C is one of Patek Philippe’s more industrial movements and you shouldn’t waste time looking for inward angles, it is genuinely radiant and the major details are finished appropriately. Furthermore, the brand’s industrial prowess pays dividends when it comes to timekeeping, with a best-in-class rating of -1 to +2 seconds per day thanks mainly to its silicon hairspring.

We’ve yet to find the limits of Patek Philippe’s pricing power, and the retail price of about US$80,000 is probably justified given the supply and demand dynamics at this end of the market. Value retention aside, the smaller sizing and luxurious weight give the Cubitus a truly decadent feel on the wrist.

If the faceted form of the Cubitus doesn’t do it for you, the new Honeygold Odysseus from A. Lange & Söhne might.

For those who are new to Lange lore, Honeygold is a proprietary gold alloy that the brand reserves for special editions. As a result, Honeygold watches tend to be sought-after by collectors looking for something unique. Beyond this inherent exclusivity, the composition of Honeygold makes it harder and more scratch-resistant than other gold alloys, making it ideally suited for luxury sport watch like the Odysseus.

Otherwise, the Honeygold edition is similar to the standard time-only Odysseus models, featuring the same embossed dial pattern found on the white gold version that debuted in 2020. In other words, it’s exceptionally well made but slightly awkward in appearance.

Like any Lange, the company puts most of its own efforts into the movement, and lets suppliers deal with the rest, hence the maker’s mark for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH (SUG) engraved on the case back. This means that the L155.1 Datomatic movement gets the brand’s full attention, and it shows.

The movement was adapted from the L086.1 but upgraded with a 4 Hz beat rate and full balance bridge to match the sporty aspirations of the Odysseus collection.

Lange has been aggressive with pricing of late, especially when it comes to the brand’s special edition models like this. In fact, at about US$110,000, the Honeygold Odysseus is one of the first Lange models I’ve seen priced higher than the equivalent Patek Philippe. Sure, it’s finished to a higher standard than its Geneva-built rival and will be made in much smaller numbers, just 100 pieces in fact, but it’s an eye-opening price nonetheless.

For those looking for something a little different with a mild complication, this year saw the launch of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time, which features the brand’s own take on the jump hour complication and comes in a white gold case with intriguing construction. Compared to previous Tambour models that tended to be colourful and exuberant, the Spin Time, for better or worse, is tastefully restrained in its design and colour palette

The Spin Time is available in a few different configurations, but all benefit from the latest automatic movement platform from the group’s top movement supplier, La Fabrique du Temps, hence the ‘LFT’ prefix on the cal. ST13.01. It’s a well-finished movement with a free-sprung balance and a solid gold winding mass, compactly organised into the center of the case to drive the peripheral spinning cubes that indicate each hour.

But for me, the Spin Time really shines thanks to its elaborate white gold case, which is a more streamlined version of the chunky Tambour case used in the past. This means that it feels somewhat familiar, with the brand name written around the bezel, but this and all other details have been slimmed down and refined.

The case is vaguely conical in form, with the widest point sitting close to the wrist. The lugs are fitted separately in order to offer a contrasting finish with the brushed mid-case, and it’s worth appreciating the fine joinery where the lugs attach – it’s a complex fit done expertly well.

Some might balk at the retail price of US$76,000, but objectively speaking the Spin Time offers as much or more than many watches at this price point from establishment brands. This speaks to the fact that while Louis Vuitton is the 800-pound Gorilla of mainstream luxury, many watch collectors view it as more of a startup when it comes to high-end watchmaking.

Unlimited budget

Watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” illustrate the divide between the “haves and the have-yachts” to borrow the title of Evan Osnos’ recent book. Targeted at the intersection of haute horlogerie and contemporary art, the Companion is a collaboration with Brian Donnelly, an American artist who makes work under the name KAWS.

The Companion is literally that – a miniature version of KAWS’ signature character rendered in titanium. The cal. 2979 movement features peripheral hour and minute hands that orbit the companion itself, along with a tourbillon visible at six o’clock. The titanium case is a reasonable 43 mm in diameter, but it suffers from a 17.4 mm thickness and an overly long lug-to-lug length, which makes me think it was designed with professional athletes in mind.

Priced over US$200,000, the Companion is the kind of watch you’re likely to see on the wrists of the brand’s celebrity clients at events like Art Basel Miami. In other words, it’s not for everyone. But the same can be said for KAWS’ artworks, which stoke both love and hate within the art world. This tension is part of what makes this provocative collaboration so interesting.

Greubel Forsey is back in form after a leadership shake-up that saw control revert to back to the brand’s founders. Widely respected for its maximalist approach to construction and finishing, Greubel Forsey recently debuted a new version of the GMT Balancier Convexe that takes the original concept and scales it down to a more wearable size of about 43 mm (depending on where you measure). Arguably the most finely finished sport watch in the industry, the GMT Balancier Convexe is a tour de force of design and craftsmanship.

The big news here is, somewhat ironically, the smaller case, which has been downsized to 42.9 mm at the mid-case. If that still sounds large, keep in mind the GMT features a very short lug-to-lug length and a proprietary strap that helps hug the wrist.

Functionally, the new version is the same as the original and feature a push-button hour jumper for crossing time zones, and even factors in daylight saving time using a two-tiered scale visible through the case back.

Functionality aside, the movement is an absolute visual spectacle, with generous amounts of black polished steel. The bridge supporting the inclined free-sprung balance is the star of the show, featuring rounded arms and perfectly crisp, symmetrical inner angles at each end.

For traditionalists, it doesn’t get any better than this. But watches don’t get much more expensive than this either – at over US$400,000, the GMT is a perfect capstone for our list of summer watches.

At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing.

Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.)

Initial thoughts

Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch.

Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick.

It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, which looks like a rubber strap but in true Rolex fashion is engineered for maximum durability and features a flexible metal core. I personally like the look and the comfort of the Oysterflex, which helps dress the watch down compared to the typical Oyster bracelet with polished center links.

Of course, the most eye-catching part of this new Daytona is its turquoise lacquer dial. Rolex has made turquoise Daytonas in the past, with one being actual mineral stone, but they’re still rare enough to stand out. But the new Daytona is the first to combine a turquoise dial with a ceramic bezel, panda colourway, and pencil-shaped hour markers.

Arguably the best part of any modern Daytona is the movement. Hidden behind a solid yellow gold case back, the cal. 4131 includes the brand’s own Chronergy escapement, and features a fully serviceable vertical clutch and anti-backlash gearing for smooth operation. And while Rolex seems to be favouring silicon hairsprings lately, the cal. 4131 still retains its elegant Parachrom overcoil hairspring.

Depending on how you look at it, the retail price of US$37,400 is either a lot of money for an industrially produced sport watch on a rubber strap, or a reasonable proposition for a distinctive and unusual precious metal version of what might be the most well-made chronograph on the market. Most collectors will probably resonate more with the latter perspective.

(And for any enthusiasts who thinks this is not enough, Rolex also launched the Daytona ref. 126538TBR at the same time. Unlike this “Stella” version, the Daytona ref. 126538TBR has an actual turquoise mineral stone dial, along with a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs. Priced at over four times the “Stella” Daytona, this is an “off-catalogue” model, shown only to retailers at Watches & Wonders, explaining the lack of photos.)

The goldilocks chronograph

It’s difficult to find something new to say about a watch like the Rolex Daytona. Largely unchanged for nearly 50 years, the Daytona has a well-earned reputation for functional excellence, timeless design, and effortless ergonomics. Over the years brand has made countless variations, but has avoided the all-too-common pitfall of diluting the signature form to suit the tastes of the moment. The result is that even new references like this one feel instantly familiar.

When reviewing watches, many things are subjective, but ergonomics are at least somewhat less subjective. The Daytona’s compact dimensions help it wear well on wrists of all sizes, something that has no doubt contributed to its enduring appeal. In this case, the comfort is dialed up a notch with the Oysterflex bracelet, which is engineered with internal elastomer blades for maximum ventilation.

Even better than before

For nearly a quarter century, the Rolex cal. 4130 reigned supreme over all other industrially produced chronograph movements. Its mechanical simplicity resulted in outstanding precision and reliability, traits that won it many admirers, myself among them.

Despite this dominant position, Rolex saw fit to replace this venerable movement with the cal. 4131 in 2023. The small difference in nomenclature has always felt misleading to me, since the inclusion of the Chronergy escapement seems like a pretty big deal.

Regardless, the cal. 4131 features all the things that made its predecessor a great movement while managing to reduce the parts count even further. Otherwise, it’s still a 4 Hz chronograph with a free-sprung balance and overcoil hairspring. It runs for up to 72 hours when fully wound, and features state-of-the-art anti-backlash gearing to ensure stutter-free operation.

Despite being hidden behind a solid case back, the movement in the new Daytona is further dressed up with Rolex striping and a solid 18k gold winding mass. I find the faux gold chatons off-putting, but the overall look is clean and attractive.

Closing thoughts

Some watches seem almost born for Instagram, this being one. The singular combination of turquoise, black, yellow gold is easily recognisable even at a great distance, all but ensuring its popularity. But more importantly, after the hype fades, the undeniable intrinsic quality will remain.

Key facts and price

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Turquoise Blue”
Ref. 126518LN

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 4131
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Oysterflex synthetic rubber with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$37,400 before taxes

For more, visit Rolex.com.

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction that takes place on May 11 is a relatively compact affair. But the 124 lots includes notable highlights, with the top lot of the sale being the especially unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” ref. 16516 in platinum with a pink mother-of-pearl dial.

This watch is one of just four Daytonas combining the El Primero movement and platinum case – the only platinum specimens in the 16500-series Daytona – all of which were made at the behest of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999.

Famous for being powered by the cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, the 16500-series was the first-ever self-winding Daytona. The model was never commercially available in platinum; the four examples in platinum are truly unique.

Moreover, each of the four are one-of-a-kind, each fitted with a different dial in exotic materials. Sotheby’s sold the prior three examples, starting with black mother-of-pearl in 2018, lapis lazuli in 2020, and turquoise in 2021. While those three featured applied Arabic numbers, this example has diamond hour markers.

Initial thoughts

The unique nature of this Daytona is unquestionable. Amongst automatic Daytonas this ranks amongst the rarest and most valuable. Two of its platinum siblings sold for over US$3 million each, making them the priciest modern-day Daytonas.

Of the four platinum Daytonas, however, this example is the most paradoxical. It’s the most unusual in having diamond indices, but also the most low key as it is practically identical to the regular production ref. 16519 in white gold with a pink mother-of-pearl dial. This is probably the most discreet million-dollar (or franc) Daytona out there.

In the hand this seems to feel a little heavier than its white gold equivalent, as it should be. The primary tangible difference lies in the hallmarks on the case and clasp.

Interestingly, this example appears to have been worn regularly for a long period of time. The wear is even on consistent on the case and clasp, though there is no significant damage. The original owner, who has consigned it to Sotheby’s, clearly enjoyed the watch for years.

A platinum quartet

All four platinum watches were made in 1999 for a particular occasion, essentially making them a set of four matched watches.

The case is identical to that of the white gold equivalent, except that it is in platinum. Notably, the crown and pushers also appear to be platinum.

As was standard for watches delivered to France at the time, the case back has a precious metal hallmark. This also sports a personalised dedication on the back that’s been digitally concealed at the consigner’s request.

The four watches were distinguished by dials in usual materials, then far more exotic than they are now. This watch sports a dial in pink mother-of-pearl that is almost white but underlined with a faint pink hue.

While this example has a dial in arguably the most common material of mother-of-pearl, it stands out for having brilliant-cut diamond indices. It’s the only watch of the four with diamond markers.

Notably, this watch, like its three siblings, is paired with a matching platinum folding clasp. Though simple, the clasp is equally unique, as I cannot recall any other Rolex model at the time having a platinum folding clasp.

The platinum Daytona ref. 16516 with a pink mother-of-pearl dial has an estimate of CHF700,000-1.40 million. It’s the final lot (126) in Sotheby’s Important Watches sale taking place on May 11, 2025 in Geneva. For more, visit Sothebys.com.

In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models.

The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold.

The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial

Initial thoughts

I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time.

Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more widely in the future.

But these watches are variants of existing models, so the attention is on what makes them different: their dials. The new green ceramic dial looks better up close than in images, and is probably a sign of things to come at Rolex.

The Everose model’s tiger iron dial, in contrast, is all about the past, being billions of years old. This naturally occurring polychromatic stone makes for an interesting dial that is very dynamic in different lighting and is a reasonably priced upgrade from the standard model.

Detail of the dial in tiger iron, a rock composed of three minerals

Both new references use the existing GMT-Master II case and Oyster bracelet, making them 40 mm and 11.9 mm thick. In full 18k gold, the watches are heavy but manageable.

Unfortunately, they lack the brand’s adjustable Glidelock clasp, and instead come with the simpler Easylink clasp which is adjustable in just one 5 mm increment. A small quibble, but as the weight of a watch increases, so too does the importance of a good fit.

Inside, both watches are powered by the existing cal. 3285 ‘flyer’ GMT movement. While the cal. 32xx series movements had some early teething issues, Rolex’s commitment to the platform mean they’ve been resolved. Despite not being Rolex’s most advanced movement anymore, the GMT-Master II calibre remains best-in-class among movements with a GMT complication.

In 18k white gold, the green ceramic model costs US$46,750, while the Everose model with its tiger iron dial is US$49,400. These are reasonable increases, up just US$1,550 and US$4,200 respectively, compared to the equivalent existing GMT-Master II models with ordinary, brass dials.

Old brand, new tricks

Most Rolex dials are made of electroplated brass, which are then lacquered and finished off with a layer of clear varnish. This is what gives them their deep, glossy finish. The brand has mastered numerous other dial-making techniques as well, and produces its own dials in the Chêne-Bourg district of suburban Geneva.

Dial lacquer at Rolex. Image – Rolex

Despite its mastery of traditional techniques, the ref. 126729 VTNR’s ceramic dial is a first for Rolex. This is actually a bit surprising given their relentless focus on long-life materials and 15+ years’ experience working with ceramic.

Omega has been using ceramic dials to good effect for more than a decade, albeit mainly in dark colours, since the material is almost impossible to scratch and provides an eerily perfect glossy surface.

With benefits like these, it makes sense for Rolex to follow this path, and it seems inevitable that we will see this material diffuse throughout the the Rolex line-up once the brand is ready to scale production beyond this specific reference.

In the case of the ref. 126729 VTNR, the green tone of the dial is the same colour and texture as the green portion of the ceramic bezel insert.

While I still find the left-handed case a bit weird, the green tone is darker and less garish than the early renderings made it appear. The shade is pleasing and reminds me of the famous green jacket awarded to winners of The Masters golf tournament. As is often the case with ceramic, achieving a bright colour, rather than a dark and dull one, was one of the key challenges in fabricating the dial material.

Multi mineral

The new Everose GMT offers a more conventional setup with its crown at three o’clock, and is functionally identical to the existing GMT-Master II ref. 26715CHNR “Root Beer” . The only difference is the tiger iron dial, but what a difference it makes.

Tiger iron is a natural stone comprised of three separate minerals: tiger’s eye, red jasper, and hematite. The stone is mined in western Australia, from one of the oldest rock formations on Earth, which dates back about three billion years. This unique origin gives it a more interesting backstory than a typical stamped-and-lacquered brass dial.

Up close, the dial is rich in texture. It’s a bit overwhelming at first, but it’s grown on me. To my eye, the blend of minerals, which were compressed together into tight bands millennia ago, resembles petrified wood, and offers the depth and grain of a natural material. While stone dials are increasingly common, Rolex has found a way to keep things interesting.

Behind their solid case backs, both watches are powered by the brand’s latest GMT movement, the cal. 3285. This is a 4 Hz ‘flyer’ GMT movement, meaning the user can advance the local time in one-hour increments while the 24-hour GMT hand stays fixed on home time.

While certainly one of the most advanced movements in the industry, with the brand’s proprietary Chronergy lever escapement and Parachrom overcoil hairspring, I can’t shake the feeling that the movement now feels a bit dated next to the latest generation Rolex calibers with silicon hairsprings and the new Dynapulse escapement.

The cal. 3285. Image – Rolex

Closing thoughts

For 80 years, Rolex has offered the best simple GMT complication on the market. This leading position has been maintained thanks to the brand’s methodical, iterative approach to product design, and by staying focused on fundamental quality from the base plate on up.

These new references are not revolutionary and will likely not be any collector’s first foray into Rolex, but they are nonetheless distinctive additions to the collection. And as is typical for Rolex, they are priced a little more than their predecessors, but not too much, making the price arguably just right.

Key facts and price

Rolex GMT-Master II
Ref. 126729VTNR (white gold, green ceramic)
Ref. 126715CHNR (Everose gold, tiger iron)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet in 18k white or Everose gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$46,750 for ref. 126729VTNR; and US$49,400 for ref. 126715CHNR (prices before taxes)

For more, visit Rolex.com.

Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up.

Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct.

The 28 mm model with a lavender dial

Initial thoughts

Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging).

The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time.

41 mm with a pistachio green dial

Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bestsellers as is usually the case for Rolex’s new launches.

36 mm with a beige dial

Matte pastel

The new trio sport dials in matte lacquer, making them the only models in the current Rolex catalogue with such a finish; glossy surfaces are the norm for Rolex.

The matte finish is achieved with six layers of lacquer, followed by varnishing and polishing to create an even, grained surface. As is standard at Rolex, the hour markers and crown emblem are all solid gold appliqués.

Dials aside, the new trio are identical to the earlier versions of the Oyster Perpetual. The cases are steel and matched with Oyster bracelets in brushed steel. All three feature a Twinlock screw-down crown and 100 m of water resistance.

The Oyster bracelet with Crownclasp

The new models are similarly equipped with the same calibres as in existing versions of the Oyster Perpetual. The 28 mm is powered by the compact cal. 2232 that has a 55-hour running time and a silicon Syloxi hairspring.

The 36 mm and 41 mm models, on the other hand, are powered by the cal. 3230, a larger movement with a 70-hour power reserve.

The cal. 2232 (above), and the cal. 3230

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41
Ref. 276200 (28 mm)
Ref. 126000 (36 mm)
Ref. 134300 (41 mm)

Diameter: 28, 36, and 41 mm
Height: 10.7 mm for 28; 11.6 mm for 36 and 41
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 2232 for 28; cal. 3230 for 36 and 41
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours for 28; 70 hours for 36 and 41

Strap: Oyster bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$5,800 for 28; US$6,350 for 36; and US$6,650 for 41

For more, visit Rolex.com.

Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals.

Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic.

Initial thoughts

Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand.

Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries).

Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come.

Two time zones

One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combination of twin hour hands and a rotating 24-hour bezel. The local time hour hand is independently adjustable, making it a “true” GMT that is easy and quick to set.

The new model has all of the key elements of the modern GMT-Master II, including a two-colour ceramic bezel insert and cal. 3285 movement. The only difference between this and past models is the Cerachrom dial.

According to Rolex, the Cerachrom dial is constructed exactly like a precious stone dial – a thin slice of ceramic is mounted on a brass dial base and secured with adhesive. The base is necessary to give the dial strength without compromising the slimness.

Before it is mounted on the base, the ceramic is cut thinly then lapped to give it a mirrored surface. As with other Rolex dials, the indices are applied and all solid gold.

Key facts and price

Rolex GMT-Master II
Ref. 126729 VTNR

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet in 18k white gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2024
Price: US$46,750 before taxes

For more, visit Rolex.com.

In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal.

Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism.

Initial thoughts

Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time.

The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch.

When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own.

The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time.

Settimo

Italian for “seven”, settimo refers to the number of links across in the bracelet. It’s comprised of five narrow links in the centre, bookended by two slightly wider links on each end. The look is reminiscent of vintage “beads of rice” bracelets and suits the aesthetic of the 1908.

Unique to the Settimo bracelet is the attachment system in the end links, which is patent pending. Instead of conventional spring bars, the bracelet employs a sprung locking mechanism.

While the links are differ from existing Rolex bracelets, the closure is the same Crownclasp found across the Rolex catalogue. Here the clasp is concealed below the links, but remains the same in terms of mechanics with a spring-loaded tab that locks it in place. And like other Rolex bracelets, the removable links of the Settimo are secured by screws.

The rest of the watch is identical to the version on strap. Inside is the cal. 7140, which was the first of the family of slim movements that is now also found in the Land Dweller as the cal. 7135. Unlike earlier generations of Rolex movements, the cal. 7140 was designed with visuals in mind, resulting in decorative elements like faux chatons and wide striping.

Key facts and price

Rolex Perpetual 1908
Ref. 52508

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 7140
Features: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 66 hours

Strap: Settimo bracelet in 18k yellow gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$35,900; or 51,100 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Rolex.com.

Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand.

The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff.

(This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.)

The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum

The fundamentals

Why is it significant, or even game changing?

The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping.

Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space.

The balance assembly of the cal. 7135

Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution.

The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are specifically concerned with the cal. 7135, reflecting the extraordinary innovation within it.

We delve deeper into the cal. 7135 – materials, oscillator, and most importantly, the Dynapulse escapement. 

The nature of the escapement

When Rolex launched Chronergy in 2015, it seemed that escapement would be the standard in Rolex movements for a long time to come. But now Rolex has debuted an entirely new escapement.

Inside the cal. 7135 of the Land-Dweller is a double-wheel, indirect-impulse escapement christened Dynapulse. While on its face Dynapulse might seem to be Rolex’s take on the “natural” escapement, Dynapulse is not a natural escapement.

The cal. 7135 appears unassuming but it is game changing. Image – Rolex

Conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1789, the natural escapement was meant to be a superior alternative to the lever escapement. Best described as a double detent escapement, the natural escapement as invented by Breguet consisted of a pair of mirrored escape wheels, geared directly together, allowing them to alternately provide a direct impulse to the balance.

While it is not explicit why Breguet labeled his invention as “natural”, it is believed that he regarded the double direct impulse as be the most “natural” manner of powering a balance wheel. As a result, a double-wheel escapement must impart direct impulse to the balance in order to be a “natural” escapement. The Rolex Dynapulse decidedly does not, as the twin escape wheels deliver impulse to a lever, and thus indirectly to the balance wheel.

Dynapulse. Image – Rolex

What it is

Dynapulse is, in short, a double-wheel, indirect-tangential impulse escapement. Made up of seemingly organic forms, Dynapulse features two escape wheels geared together via irregular toothing.

The mechanics of Dynapulse are fairly easy to grasp. The going train powers a pair of escape wheels geared together — one escape wheel is powered directly by a silicon fourth wheel of the going train, while the second escape wheel is driven by the first.

Each escape wheel alternatively engages with a dual-function silicon lever, which performs both the impulse and locking functions. While the set up brings to mind past escapements, including the Dual Ulysse escapement found in the Ulysse Nardin Freak, Dynapulse has a crucial advantage: the unlocked escape wheel also provides impulse to the lever – a stroke of genius on the part of the constructors.

The Ulysse Nardin Dual Ulysse escapement, a system that is similar in some ways to Dynapulse. Image- Ulysse Nardin patent

In the Dual Ulysse escapement, one escape wheel locks the lever and the other is positioned to provide impulse after unlocking. But this means that during every oscillation, the driven escape wheel is under no tension from the driving escape wheel as it is set to provide impulse, which leaves the driven escape wheel free to “flutter” due to normal play in meshing of the wheels. This leads to asymmetric impulse values between the two escape wheels.

In Dynapulse, the escape wheel that is locking the lever is also the one that impulses the lever after unlocking. For example, when the driving escape wheel is locked, it also will impulse the lever, while the driven escape wheel remains entirely inactive. The lever then locks the driven escape wheel, which is instantly tensioned by its driving counterpart. 

The Dynapulse escapement. Image – Rolex

This means that when the escapement unlocks again, the driven escape wheel is pretensioned, so its impulse value is identical as if coming from the driving escape wheel. This is an elegant solution to the problem of “flutter”, or play between teeth, which had plagued watchmakers working on double wheel escapements since Breguet’s “natural” invention. 

Rolex notes Dynapulse is about 30% more efficient overall than a Swiss lever escapement, which is an impressively high efficiency gain. Preliminary observations look to support the affirmation, since the escapement is small and the silicon components are hollowed out, suggesting few inertial losses. The appeal of tangential impulse is the minimal energy that is dissipated, which is thanks to the virtual absence of sliding friction.

Notably, Rolex also discloses an oiling process specific to Dynapulse. The escapement is first assembled, lubricated, and tested as a sub-assembly on its own before being installed into a complete movement. Rolex also adds that lubricant application is measurable in nanoliters.

This is interesting, since most brands that employ novel escapements often claim such alternative escapement run “dry” (which is almost never the case). Crucially, however, according to Olivier Greim, head of research and development at Rolex, Dynapulse can theoretically function without lubrication.

The escapement with the balance assembly removed. Image – Rolex

Equally notable is the scale of Dynapulse. The new escapement occupies essentially the same volume as Chronergy, the Swiss lever escapement that is now found across Rolex’s range of movements. This leaves open the possibility that Dynapulse can be fitted to other latest-generation Rolex movements, which would be logical given its functional superiority.

Efficiency and other advantages

An escapement similar to Dynapulse was the subject of a pending patent filed by Rolex in the second half of 2024 (European patent EP4492153A1). The patent describes two possible embodiments of the invention, although the Dynapulse is not identical to either. 

Two variants of the Dynapulse concept with the version on the right being similar to Dynapulse. Image – Rolex patent

Dynapulse is made up of two escape wheels, each offset by 30° and during one full oscillation (meaning two vibrations or two unlockings of the escapement) each wheel travels by 60°.

Considering the 5 Hz rate of the regulator, it means that the silicon escape wheels each make 50 rotations per minute, or 5/6 of a revolution per second. This angular velocity is extremely high, considering that a 5 Hz Zenith El Primero escapement runs at only 15 turns per minute.

This high velocity implies resistance to magnetic fields is important, which might explain why the intermediate wheel powering the escape wheels is crafted from silicon as well.

An escape wheel of Dynapulse. Image – Rolex

Equally impressive is the form of the escape wheels. Each has six active hook-shaped teeth that engage selectively with a double-function lever. Intertwined with the teeth are six C-shaped notches, each being meant to engage with a tooth on the adjoining escape wheel. In other words, the Dynapulse escape wheels incorporate two types of teeth.

Developing the geometry employed in the escape wheels requires substantial mathematics and a solid understanding of rolling surface physics, along with cycloid and involute curve theory. The result is a reliable pair of unique gears, with optimised surface-to-surface interaction and presumably reduced play between the two escape wheels. 

The particular form of each escape wheel incorporates subtle reinterpretations of traditional gear geometry, with the C-shaped segments serving as the “valley” between two standardised teeth, without being directly defined by the teeth’s flanks. This ensures the tightness of engagement even with undersized tooth profiles.

Image – Rolex

There is a slight recoil when the balance unlocks the escapement, as the escape wheel tooth is forced out of the locking notch. The recoil looks to be less than the similar effect caused by draw in classic Swiss lever escapements.

It can be inferred that the geometric efficiency of Dynapulse is elevated. Only dependent on the geometrical constraints of the escapement, the geometric efficiency describes how much of the escape wheel’s travel between two unlocking motions is actually useful in impulsing the balance. Dynapulse escape wheels appear to be in contact with the lever for most of their travel when unlocked, actively imparting impulse to the balance.

The meshing of the escape wheels. Image – Rolex

A subtle safety

Intriguingly, Dynapulse omits the conventional dart and roller safety system, which seems surprisingly initially. All escapements on the market feature some sort of a safety implement that prevents accidental unlocking of the escapement. Such systems are universally found in Swiss lever escapements, as well as the Omega Co-axial escapement and the Ulysse Nardin Dual Ulysse.

Dynapulse, however, purposefully omits this. Intriguingly, it appears the security device is integrated into the locking surfaces of the escapement parts. When one escape wheel locks the lever, its tip is lodged into a subtle V-shaped notch sculpted into the lever. This assures the two components are locked in a stable equilibrium position.

Moreover, the tangential force exerted by the escape wheel on the lever is consistently directed towards its pivot — thus ensuring the tooth tip is securely lodged in the V-shaped notch. 

A closeup of the escape wheel and lever interaction. Image – Rolex

A surprising oscillator in ceramic and Ecobrass

While silicon hairsprings are not new to Rolex, the oscillating organ in the cal. 7135 is the brand’s most forward-thinking balance. Although it resembles the silicon hairsprings found in other Rolex movements, the balance and hairspring assembly in the cal. 7135 has been completely rethought, especially in terms of materials used. 

The Syloxi hairspring looks familiar and is indeed similar to the one found in the cal. 7140. It has the same two-point anchoring system but was adapted for the 5 Hz frequency of the cal. 7135, meaning its stiffness constant was increased through more rigid coils. 

The ceramic balance staff. Image – Rolex

The free-sprung balance itself is made of “optimised brass”. Traditional balance wheels are made of Glucydur, a specialised alloy of beryllium, copper and iron. Another Rolex pending patent (European patent EP4399575A1) suggests that the alloy employed for the balance of cal. 7135 might be CuZn21Si3P, a lead-free “Ecobrass”.

Moving away from traditional materials is something Rolex has been progressively doing as it seeks superior alternatives to traditional alloys. Most notable is Rolex’s investment in making the proprietary blue Parachrom hairsprings.

The patent argues that this alloy has great paramagnetic qualities, making it suitable for the balance wheel of a mechanical watch. Moreover, the density of the alloy is optimal for a good inertia value for the balance shape. 

Rolex engineers approached the issue of magnetism resistance by considering the electrical resistance of different alloys and their behaviour to eddy currents induced by powerful magnetic fields.

The ceramic composite balance staff, with the two terminal pivots. Image – Rolex

The balance pivot in the cal. 7135 is also unusual, being made of a composite ceramic material. Examining other Rolex patents suggests that the composite is a matrix of industrial ceramic, namely an improved formulation of zirconia that boasts increased strength.

Incidentally, the ceramic pivot in the cal. 7135 is not the first instance that the Rolex group has employed the material for a balance staff, but this particular formulation of ceramic is unique to the cal. 7135.

The laser-polished pivot. Image – Rolex

Not only is the composite pivot inherently paramagnetic, but it is also adept at being produced with extremely fine tolerances. The ceramic pivots of the cal. 7135 are perfectly sculpted with a femtolaser, essentially a highly precise laser similar to that used for eye surgery.

The ends of the pivot are then polished to a mirrored finish with another laser. The polishing is not done for aesthetic purposes but to create a smooth surface pivoting inside the jewel to reduce friction as much as possible. As with the escapement, the ceramic pivots are lubricated, though Mr Greim says that due to their nature, ceramic pivots can theoretically function without any lubrication.

Conclusion

The innovations in the cal. 7135 are arguably a declaration that mechanical innovation is very much alive, that Rolex is going far beyond incremental innovation. Because the cal. 7135 is produced by Rolex, two things are a certainty: the movement will be of impeccable functional quality and it will be produced at scale. Because of the quality and scale, the cal. 7135 might just change the landscape of watchmaking.

The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant.

While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.)

The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist.

The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions.

The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex

Initial thoughts

The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it.

The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the catalogue in fact. But it remains equally robust with a screw-down crown and 100 m of water resistance.

The execution, however, is typical of Rolex, which is to say outstanding. The cal. 7135 with its multiple innovations – 16 patents for the movement alone – is perhaps the new benchmark in advanced, industrial mechanical timekeeping. Although the cal. 7135 is tested to the same Superlative Chronometer standard of +/-2 seconds a day, I expect it will perform substantially better on the wrist.

The Dynapulse escapement of the cal. 7135. Image – Rolex

Beyond the landmark achievement of the cal. 7135, the attention to detail in the patented bracelet attachment (tungsten carbide sockets and ceramic clips for the spring bar) is incredible and speaks to the obsession with long-term robustness that’s a hallmark of Rolex engineering.

At any other brand, a watch with this many innovations would probably be a concept watch. The Land-Dweller, on the other hand, is serial production and unexpectedly well priced. In typical Rolex fashion the retail price is reasonable, with the white Rolesor version (which is steel and white gold), priced at US$14,900. The equivalent Datejust, on the other hand, is US$10,550.

I would absolutely buy a Land-Dweller 40, though I expect availability, at least initially, will be scarce as is the case with every new Rolex.

The only thing I would change is the honeycomb pattern on the dial. It’s certainly modern and distinct from other Rolex dials, but I would have preferred something simpler or more subtle. I am sure there will be more iterations of the Land-Dweller to come, so this is merely a matter of time.

The ideal everyday timekeeper

According to a Davide Airoldi, head of design at Rolex, the Land-Dweller is conceived as a robust, elegant everyday watch. This explains the slimmer profile and the advanced movement inside.

Rolex’s head of heritage, Christophe Carrupt, explains the Land-Dweller is novel for the current catalogue but still very much rooted in Rolex history. The aesthetic was inspired by the Oysterquartz ref. 1630 introduced in 1974 and the preceding ref. 5100 Beta 21 of 1970. The integrated bracelet and flat Jubilee bracelet in particular echo the Oysterquartz (though there were also mechanical Oyster models with the same case).

Because of the slim cal. 7135, the Land-Dweller case is just 9.7 mm high in both 36 mm and 40 mm sizes. The thin profile gives it a refined feel that is not common to the usually robust Oyster.

Adding to the refinement is the polished bevel along the upper edge of the case that continues into the links of the bracelet. This is the first time in a long time that Rolex is incorporating polished bevels along the case, but it’s a welcome addition because it adds to the visual appeal.

Interestingly, the fluted bezel is a Rolex signature, but it’s been modernised for the Land-Dweller. The flutes are wider, resulting in a more pronounced pattern on the bezel. The Land-Dweller 40 bezel has 60 flutes, compared to 72 for the equivalent Day-Date 40.

Personally, I would have loved the platinum Land-Dweller to feature the smooth bezel that was historically a feature of the platinum Day-Date but eliminated not too long ago in favour of the fluted bezel that is not standard across the Datejust and Day-Date.

Also conceived as a modern touch is the honeycomb pattern on the dial that’s unique to the Land-Dweller. It’s actually a variant of the fluted motif dial found on the Datejust, but made more pronounced here with a larger, relief grain.

The honeycomb pattern is engraved with a femtolaser, essentially an extra-fine laser similar to that used for eye surgery. The femtolaser cuts the honeycomb pattern and also etches the fine lines in between the cells. The contrast between the radially brushed cells and finely-etched borders allows the dial to catch the light nicely.

The laser etching is an intriguing touch as although the laser etching process is high-tech, the resulting lines between the cells bring to mind guilloche.

Another example of modern technology in the dial is the luminous ceramic-resin composite that form the lume on the hour markers. Instead of conventional luminous paint that is applied as a liquid, the hour markers contain solid blocks of lume.

The solid lume is produced with ceramic powder infused with luminous pigment that’s then mixed with a thermosetting polymer, after which the mixture is baked in an oven to form a solid block. The blocks are then precisely machined to form the hour marker inserts that are perfectly shaped and cover each index from end to end.

The most impressive design element of the Land-Dweller in my opinion, is the bracelet. Or more accurately, the construction of the bracelet attachment.

While the bracelet appears to be a straightforward set-up that’s secured to the case with a spring bar, there’s more to it than meets the eye.

Because the lug width is relatively narrow, just 7 mm compared to 20 mm or so for a conventional case, the spring bar had to be beefed up to be strong enough to be secure and robust.

Furthermore, the first link of the bracelet pivots on the spring bar, creating a rotational friction that would ordinarily cause wear. The Rolex solution was, of course, almost unbelievable in its detail and thoroughness – and includes one patent pending feature.

Firstly, the sockets in the lugs that accommodate the spring bars are coated in tungsten carbide, a hard-wearing material typically used for industrial drill bits.

Just to be safe, the spring bars are also secured in place with ceramic pins for an additional level of wear resistance. And then just to ensure this essentially lasts forever, the springs bars are locked in place with a lateral screw from inside the watch case.

Cal. 7135

The cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is part of the same family of movements as the cal. 7140 found in the Perpetual 1908 launched in 2023. While the two movements are superficially similar when seen through the display back, the cal. 7135 is notably more advanced.

The cal. 7135 is fundamentally a high-beat chronometer calibre. It’s the first high-frequency in-house Rolex movement with the balance running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour.

In comparison, the cal. 7140 of the 1908 runs at a conventional 4 Hz or 28,800 beats per hour, the standard across the Rolex catalogue until now.

Despite being high beat, the cal. 7135 retains the same 66-hour power reserve as the cal. 7140. Credit for that primarily goes to the Dynapulse escapement, a high-efficiency escapement that is 30% more efficient than a typical Swiss lever escapement. Put another way, it consumes 30% less energy, all else being equal.

The secret to the Dynapulse escapement lies in the fact that it is entirely silicon, and composed of twin escape wheels that tangentially impulse a lever that in turn drives the balance. The lightness of the components and minimal friction during operation are the reason for the high efficiency.

Beyond the escapement, the cal. 7135 also features a Syloxi silicon hairspring that was optimised for the cal. 7135, though it shares many elements with the hairspring found in the cal. 7140, including the unique mounting system.

New to the cal. 7135, however, is the ceramic balance staff. It’s made of ceramic that is sculpted by femtolaser, then mirror polished by femtolaser, resulting in perfect geometry and a perfect mirrored surface.

The ceramic balance staff and Syloxi hairspring. Image – Rolex

Conventional wisdom would have it that ceramic is fragile due to its hardness, but the material used for the balance staff is a zirconium-based ceramic formulated to be shock resistant. Notably, the Rolex group has used ceramic balance staffs but the ceramic formulation for the cal. 7135 is entirely new.

And although the ceramic balance staff is conceived to be shock resistant, the cal. 7135 also incorporates a new shock absorber for both ends of the balance pivot. Made up of a redesigned spring and cap jewel, the optimised Paraflex shock absorbers on both ends allow the balance to absorb lateral and vertical shocks; even if the balance staff is displaced, a cone-shaped ring slides it back into back at both ends.

For even more detail on the movement and its innovation, see our in-depth story on the cal. 7135 and Dynapulse.

Key facts and price

Rolex Land-Dweller 36 and 40
Ref. 127234 (Rolesor, 36 mm)
Ref. 127334 (Rolesor, 40 mm)
Ref. 127235 (Everose, 36 mm)
Ref. 127335 (Everose, 40 mm)
Ref. 127385 TBR (Everose, 40 mm, diamond-set bezel)
Ref. 127236 (Platinum, 36 mm)
Ref. 127286 TBR (Platinum, 36 mm, diamond-set bezel)
Ref. 127336 (Platinum, 40 mm)

Diameter: 36 mm or 40 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: Rolesor (steel and white gold), Everose gold, or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 7135
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 66 hours

Strap: Flat Jubilee bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$14,900 in Rolesor; US$63,500 in platinum; and US$88,300 in Everose with diamond-set bezel

For more, visit Rolex.com.