As the summer holidays begin for many collectors around the world, we take a look at some of the standout summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2025.

While there’s no formal definition for what constitutes a ‘summer watch’, we focused on models that are robustly built and expressive in their designs, colours, and materials. With options ranging from just US$1,850 to over US$400,000, our list will have something for almost everyone.

Under US$5,000

First up on the budget end of the spectrum is the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph, which comes in a variety of colours and materials. Affordably priced thanks to its set-and-forget solar-powered quartz movement, the Solargraph is the spiritual successor to the brand’s iconic Formula One collection, which debuted in 1986. The launch of the Formula One collection was a turning point for the brand, which had recently rebranded as TAG Heuer following TAG Group’s acquisition of then-struggling Heuer.

The Solargraph is available in several colourways, and sits easily on the wrist thanks to its 38 mm size and 9.9 mm thickness. For the case material, buyers can choose between stainless steel, with brushed or DLC-coated black finishes, or colourful plastic known as Polylight.

All models are rated to 100 m of water resistance, as even the plastic-cased models feature an internal stainless steel case and screw-down steel case back. I’m partial to the red version (ref. WBY1161.FT8086) as it doesn’t take itself too seriously and can be seen as a nod to Heuer’s historical connections to Scuderia Ferrari.

The relaunch of the collection in 2025 also makes sense as TAG Heuer recently reclaimed its position as official timekeeper for Formula 1, and became the first-ever title sponsor of the famous Monaco Grand Prix. Furthermore, with global interest in Formula 1 surging in recent years, the value of the F1 brand has never been higher.

A cynic might point out these watches have little to do with racing beyond the marketing, but Heuer’s ties to the culture of motorsport go way back; under Jack Heuer’s leadership, the company became the first watch brand to sponsor an F1 team back in 1971. These kinds of cultural bona fides are vanishingly rare at the Solargraph’s price point of just under US$2,000.

Next up is one of the most surprising watches of 2025, the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. It’s easy to feel jaded about the continued onslaught of integrated bracelet sport watches, but the Loco punches well above its weight, featuring an architectural new calibre and impressive finishing.

The Loco is a big step in the evolution of the Christopher Ward brand, which has been pushing upmarket recently with models like the Bel Canto that defy ‘entry level’ norms for design and complication.

The Loco features a 41 mm stainless steel case and is available on an integrated steel bracelet or a rubber strap. I recommend the rubber, as it’s unusually supple and helps the watch avoid the trap of looking too much like everything else.

The case is fairly thick at 13.7 mm, but this includes the domed sapphire crystal that sits up high above the case, creating space for the dial-side theatrics. The crystal is also worth mentioning in the context of the meager 30 m water resistance rating, which might seem low for a sport watch.

In fact, the watch features a reassuringly solid screw-down crown and the water resistance is limited mainly by the faceted crystal, which wasn’t engineered for the crushing pressure of deeper depths, but is more than sufficient for the pool or beach club.

The thickness is well-justified, since the CW-003 movement is quite unlike anything else at the Loco’s price point of US$4,595. The CW-003 is a manually wound calibre with two massive mainspring barrels visible through the transparent case back, which together provide a six-day power reserve.

Flip the watch over, and the brand’s first-ever free-sprung balance brings life to the dial, which displays the hours and minutes on an off-center sapphire display.  The movement is not only visually striking, with sculpted steel bridges and cocks supporting the major component groups, but the finishing is head-and-shoulders above its microbrand peers.

Rounding out the entry level category, honourable mentions go to the Albishorn Thundergraph and the Laventure Marine Type 3, which tap into the notion of ‘imaginary vintage’ in different and interesting ways. The Thundergraph features a novel monopusher chronograph designed by Sébastien Chaulmontet, and the Marine Type 3 references early quartz marine chronometers for its design, and weighs less than 50 g on its elastic strap thanks in part to its grade 23 titanium case.

Under US$10,000

A step up in price affords access to the Tudor Pelagos Ultra, which is arguably the highest spec dive watch in the brand’s history. Though the title of deepest diving Tudor is still held by the short-lived and little-loved Hydro 1200, the 1,000 m-rated Ultra is powered by a far more advanced in-house MT5612-U movement that carries the Master Chronometer designation. For those who love chunky overbuilt dive watches, the Ultra is an appealing option at US$6,100.

Housed in a fully brushed 43 mm titanium case, the Ultra measures 14.5 mm thick and has the purposeful feel of a precision instrument. This sizing gives the Ultra inherent wrist presence, but the restrained monochromatic design and matte textures keep it from making a spectacle of itself, which tends to be the case with some rivals.

Naturally, it includes all the familiar touches of the Pelagos line: a ceramic bezel, snowflake hands, brushed titanium bracelet, and plenty of lume, including on the adjustable T-fit clasp.

Ceramic is an increasingly popular material in luxury watchmaking thanks to its scratch-resistance and capacity for colour, which makes it easy to look at a watch like the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Lake Tahoe and think the brand is jumping on a fad, but the facts are more nuanced.

IWC was an early pioneer of zirconium oxide watch cases as far back as 1986 when the brand introduced the white ceramic Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3755-05. This lineage gives the brand’s ceramic watches like the Lake Tahoe a degree of historical continuity that latecomers can only dream of.

The Lake Tahoe is light, bright, and delivered on a rubber strap that is ready for anything you might get up to this summer (though the white textile shell might need some cleaning from time to time).

Priced at US$8,500, the Lake Tahoe is a fresh take on the brand’s famous pilot’s watch, managing to thread the needle between fashionable and timeless. If I could change one thing about this watch, it would be the unnecessary Top Gun branding that adorns the solid case back, but I could live with it considering the dial is unblemished.

Inside, the Lake Tahoe shares the same cal. 32112 automatic movement as the pricier Ingenieur, though it must be said the same movement is available for even less from sister brands within the Richemont stable. Still, the 120-hour power reserve is a great feature if your summer plans are anything like mine and involve doing as little as possible.

Under US$20,000

Rolex tends to dominate the conversation at Watches & Wonders, but this year they actually earned it by introducing the Land-Dweller, one of the most over-engineered sport watches ever developed. Truly the watch of the summer, Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour was recently spotted wearing one at Wimbledon. The Land-Dweller is notable for bringing back the Oysterquartz-style integrated bracelet design, but it excels most in ways that aren’t immediately obvious.

The Rolex Land-Dweller, shown here in platinum

The real story is the new silicon Dynapulse escapement that makes its debut in the cal. 7135. The first Rolex movement to tick at 5 Hz, the cal. 7135 benefits from 16 patents, making it quite unlike any other movement in the brand’s collection.

Rolex is a very conservative brand and has dabbled in silicon before on a limited scale, namely the Syloxi hairspring, but the brand is now clearly convinced that this technology is mature and ready for widespread use.

While the US$63,500 platinum model is shown, the white dialed variant in steel can be had for just US$14,900, which I’d say is a stellar value.

What’s more, the polarising design and somewhat awkward Land-Dweller model name narrowed the field of prospective customers, which might make it easier for technically-minded or contrarian collectors to pick one up without too much hassle.

Summer is usually a time for kicking back and having fun, which might explain Grand Seiko’s new ‘Tokyo Lion” edition of the Tentagraph, ref. SLGC009G.

Featuring a massive titanium case with aggressive, angular details, the Tokyo Lion retains the high-beat modular cal. 9SC5 chronograph  movement that made its debut in 2023. The styling of this watch is almost outrageous by the normally restrained standards of Grand Seiko, but in a world of lookalike integrated bracelet watches, the Tokyo Lion is a breath of fresh air.

We have to start with those pushers, which are serrated to mimic a lion’s paws. Like the case, they feature angular forms with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces. Overall, the case measures 43 mm and a whopping 15.6 mm thick, but weighs a manageable 139 g thanks to its titanium construction.

Wearing comfort is enhanced by the soft rubber strap, delivered in a similar shade of brown as the embossed dial. In keeping with the lion theme, the inside of the strap has been stamped with a paw print to aid air circulation. Ventilation channels are common with rubber straps but rarely do makers get so creative with the design.

The Tokyo Lion is the very definition of ‘wrist presence’ but at US$16,900 it doesn’t offer the value proposition that many expect from Grand Seiko. That said, the Tentagraph movement is highly differentiated from its Swiss peers and contains the brand’s proprietary direct impulse escapement that extends the power reserve to 80 hours. It also features a free-sprung balance and an overcoil hairspring, something that’s all but extinct at this end of the market.

Under US$50,000

Hublot is brand that elicits strong emotions, and despite getting occasionally dragged on social media for being overpriced or derivative, the brand has earned many devotees thanks to its bold designs and use of innovative materials like recycled tennis racquets and multi-coloured ceramics.

The new Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic demonstrates the brand’s ongoing leadership in the field of ceramics, which are difficult to produce in vibrant colours. In this case (pun intended) the ceramic cladding has been given a high-gloss finish that resembles high-end automotive paint, differentiating it from ceramic watches from the likes of Audemars Piguet, and the pastel mint green colour helps tone down the overt masculinity of the design.

While Hublot has a reputation for making large watches, the 42 mm Big Bang case hugs the wrist and should be manageable for most, although the folding clasp is not an ideal fit on some wrists.

And those who take the plunge will be rewarded by some of the best chronograph pushers in the industry, which are immensely satisfying in both appearance and operation; even if the design isn’t your cup of tea it’s worth experiencing the smooth texture and crisp break when starting or stopping the chronograph.

Speaking of the HUB1280 Unico movement, most of the major component groups are visible through the open-worked dial, including the column-wheel and anti-backlash gearing for the horizontal clutch, which makes for an engaging visual treat.

That said, there are a couple things I’d change given the retail price of US$24,100. First, I’ve always wished Hublot would use a free-sprung balance in the Unico platform, not least because the brand teased this feature in the original movement prototypes.

Second, the injection-moulded plastic mid-case is a little rough around the edges. These shortcomings aside, the vibrant colour, glossy texture, technical styling, and differentiated movement make the Big Bang Mint Green Ceramic pretty convincing on the wrist.

I vividly remember the first time I put on the Ulysse Nardin Diver Air, and of all the options on this list it would be my go-to holiday watch. Its appeal is rooted in its lightweight case, which weighs just 46 g without its 6-g velcro strap.

There are lighter watches, but none are true divers like the Air. Numbers aside, the watch feels almost weightless, perhaps due to the expectations created by its large visual size, and is effortlessly comfortable on the wrist.

So how did they make a proper dive watch that’s 44 mm by 14.7 mm thick weigh as little as a dozen sheets of A4 paper?

It starts with a titanium case and bezel, which is clad with Nylo, an upcycled polymer-carbon composite material. The ruthless search for weight-savings continues inside to the UN-374 automatic movement that itself weighs just 7 g thanks to its efficiently engineered open-worked design and titanium bridges.

The Air features many appealing details, from the exposed magic lever bi-directional winding system, to the bold notches on the bezel that feel great to the touch. There’s also a fun Easter egg on the case back: instead of the usual “Swiss” designation that’s commonplace, Ulysse Nardin went a step further and engraved the coordinates for their headquarters in Le Locle.

Of course, being a Ulysse Nardin, the Air capitalises on the brand’s expertise in silicon technology; the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel, and pallet lever are crafted from silicon, which helps improve isochronism and reduces the need for lubrication. But while the watch weighs just 52 g all told, it’s not for lightweight budgets, priced at US$38,000. This pricing might be a challenge, since visually the watch has a lot in common with the brand’s own Diver X collection, which is priced lower but lacks the extraordinary wrist feel of the Air.

US$50,000 to $150,000

Someday we will be able to talk about the Cubitus without having to mention the outcry that accompanied the collection’s launch late last year, but we’re not there yet. In short, Patek Philippe’s new square-shaped collection of elegant sport watches proved to be a hit with the brand’s A-list clientele but the 45 mm sizing left some Nautilus fans scratching their heads.

Enter the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G, which debuted at Watches & Wonders in a new 40 mm size that should convert many skeptics. The new Cubitus feels reassuringly dense thanks to its slim white gold case and bracelet, which drapes over the wrist in a way that will feel familiar to those who’ve worn a Nautilus in precious metal.

The Nautilus theme continues on the dial, which features the familiar embossed sunburst finish and lozenge-shaped hand set of its predecessor. But the octagonal bezel, which is basically a square with faceted corners, gives the Cubitus its own identity. The resemblance is probably incidental, but the shape reminds me of Place Vendôme, the location of the Patek Philippe boutique in Paris.

Naturally, the finishing is excellent inside and out. While it’s true that the cal. 26-330 S C is one of Patek Philippe’s more industrial movements and you shouldn’t waste time looking for inward angles, it is genuinely radiant and the major details are finished appropriately. Furthermore, the brand’s industrial prowess pays dividends when it comes to timekeeping, with a best-in-class rating of -1 to +2 seconds per day thanks mainly to its silicon hairspring.

We’ve yet to find the limits of Patek Philippe’s pricing power, and the retail price of about US$80,000 is probably justified given the supply and demand dynamics at this end of the market. Value retention aside, the smaller sizing and luxurious weight give the Cubitus a truly decadent feel on the wrist.

If the faceted form of the Cubitus doesn’t do it for you, the new Honeygold Odysseus from A. Lange & Söhne might.

For those who are new to Lange lore, Honeygold is a proprietary gold alloy that the brand reserves for special editions. As a result, Honeygold watches tend to be sought-after by collectors looking for something unique. Beyond this inherent exclusivity, the composition of Honeygold makes it harder and more scratch-resistant than other gold alloys, making it ideally suited for luxury sport watch like the Odysseus.

Otherwise, the Honeygold edition is similar to the standard time-only Odysseus models, featuring the same embossed dial pattern found on the white gold version that debuted in 2020. In other words, it’s exceptionally well made but slightly awkward in appearance.

Like any Lange, the company puts most of its own efforts into the movement, and lets suppliers deal with the rest, hence the maker’s mark for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH (SUG) engraved on the case back. This means that the L155.1 Datomatic movement gets the brand’s full attention, and it shows.

The movement was adapted from the L086.1 but upgraded with a 4 Hz beat rate and full balance bridge to match the sporty aspirations of the Odysseus collection.

Lange has been aggressive with pricing of late, especially when it comes to the brand’s special edition models like this. In fact, at about US$110,000, the Honeygold Odysseus is one of the first Lange models I’ve seen priced higher than the equivalent Patek Philippe. Sure, it’s finished to a higher standard than its Geneva-built rival and will be made in much smaller numbers, just 100 pieces in fact, but it’s an eye-opening price nonetheless.

For those looking for something a little different with a mild complication, this year saw the launch of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time, which features the brand’s own take on the jump hour complication and comes in a white gold case with intriguing construction. Compared to previous Tambour models that tended to be colourful and exuberant, the Spin Time, for better or worse, is tastefully restrained in its design and colour palette

The Spin Time is available in a few different configurations, but all benefit from the latest automatic movement platform from the group’s top movement supplier, La Fabrique du Temps, hence the ‘LFT’ prefix on the cal. ST13.01. It’s a well-finished movement with a free-sprung balance and a solid gold winding mass, compactly organised into the center of the case to drive the peripheral spinning cubes that indicate each hour.

But for me, the Spin Time really shines thanks to its elaborate white gold case, which is a more streamlined version of the chunky Tambour case used in the past. This means that it feels somewhat familiar, with the brand name written around the bezel, but this and all other details have been slimmed down and refined.

The case is vaguely conical in form, with the widest point sitting close to the wrist. The lugs are fitted separately in order to offer a contrasting finish with the brushed mid-case, and it’s worth appreciating the fine joinery where the lugs attach – it’s a complex fit done expertly well.

Some might balk at the retail price of US$76,000, but objectively speaking the Spin Time offers as much or more than many watches at this price point from establishment brands. This speaks to the fact that while Louis Vuitton is the 800-pound Gorilla of mainstream luxury, many watch collectors view it as more of a startup when it comes to high-end watchmaking.

Unlimited budget

Watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” illustrate the divide between the “haves and the have-yachts” to borrow the title of Evan Osnos’ recent book. Targeted at the intersection of haute horlogerie and contemporary art, the Companion is a collaboration with Brian Donnelly, an American artist who makes work under the name KAWS.

The Companion is literally that – a miniature version of KAWS’ signature character rendered in titanium. The cal. 2979 movement features peripheral hour and minute hands that orbit the companion itself, along with a tourbillon visible at six o’clock. The titanium case is a reasonable 43 mm in diameter, but it suffers from a 17.4 mm thickness and an overly long lug-to-lug length, which makes me think it was designed with professional athletes in mind.

Priced over US$200,000, the Companion is the kind of watch you’re likely to see on the wrists of the brand’s celebrity clients at events like Art Basel Miami. In other words, it’s not for everyone. But the same can be said for KAWS’ artworks, which stoke both love and hate within the art world. This tension is part of what makes this provocative collaboration so interesting.

Greubel Forsey is back in form after a leadership shake-up that saw control revert to back to the brand’s founders. Widely respected for its maximalist approach to construction and finishing, Greubel Forsey recently debuted a new version of the GMT Balancier Convexe that takes the original concept and scales it down to a more wearable size of about 43 mm (depending on where you measure). Arguably the most finely finished sport watch in the industry, the GMT Balancier Convexe is a tour de force of design and craftsmanship.

The big news here is, somewhat ironically, the smaller case, which has been downsized to 42.9 mm at the mid-case. If that still sounds large, keep in mind the GMT features a very short lug-to-lug length and a proprietary strap that helps hug the wrist.

Functionally, the new version is the same as the original and feature a push-button hour jumper for crossing time zones, and even factors in daylight saving time using a two-tiered scale visible through the case back.

Functionality aside, the movement is an absolute visual spectacle, with generous amounts of black polished steel. The bridge supporting the inclined free-sprung balance is the star of the show, featuring rounded arms and perfectly crisp, symmetrical inner angles at each end.

For traditionalists, it doesn’t get any better than this. But watches don’t get much more expensive than this either – at over US$400,000, the GMT is a perfect capstone for our list of summer watches.

Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition.

Initial Thoughts

The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit. 

The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish,  which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces.

New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling.

The Slow Life

The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, in addition to 200 m of water resistance.

The original 37 mm Black Bay 54 was inspired by the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 launched in 1954 as an economical alternative to the Rolex Submariner. While best known for being issued to French and American navy divers,  the balance of price and capability made it attractive to civilian divers.

While the first version, released in 2023 with a black dial kept true to the look of the vintage original, minus the anachronistic snowflake hands, the Lagoon Blue takes a different tack.

The “Lagoon Blue” dial is aggressively textured to evoke beach sand, which it does quite well, and is framed by a mirror-polished steel bezel insert, rather than the typical matte aluminium.

Tudor exchanged the three-link Oyster-like for a Jubilee-style five-link bracelet while preserving the much-loved “T-fit” clasp with an 8 mm micro-adjustment window across five positions.

Inside beats the MT5400, which is used across the Black Bay 58 and 54 lines. It’s an extremely competent movement with a “weekend-proof” 70-hour power reserve, free-sprung balance, and silicon hairspring. Besides being a COSC-certified chronometer, each assembled watch is also held to Tudor’s more stringent tolerance of -2/+4 seconds per day.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue
Ref. 79000-0001

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 11.24 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 mm

Movement: Cal. MT5400
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: Regular production
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$4,350

For more information, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Tudor has been busy expanding the Pelagos collection in recent years, focusing primarily on military and racing associations. But until now, none exceeded the 500 m depth rating of the debut model from 2012. Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025, the Pelagos Ultra (ref. 2543C1A7NU) can dive to double that depth, making it the deepest diving watch in Tudor’s current collection.

The Ultra is differentiated primarily by its headline 1,000 m depth rating and teal accents, and is otherwise a familiar mix of elements from the Pelagos range including the lumed ceramic bezel, a fully brushed grade 2 titanium case and bracelet, and legible snowflake hands.

Initial thoughts

I personally enjoy overbuilt dive watches, despite the fact that I don’t dive. Practicality aside, there’s just something fun and reassuring about wearing what feels like a vault on the wrist. And that’s what the Ultra feels like – it’s tangibly overbuilt but still wearable thanks to its titanium construction.

The biggest, baddest Pelagos yet, the Ultra measures 43 mm and 14.5 mm thick. But it doesn’t look overly large thanks to its 22 mm lug width, which gives it the visual proportions of something a little smaller. That said, the sizing may be too much for some, who would likely find a better fit with the standard Pelagos or Pelagos 39.

The dial design is similar to that of the Pelagos 39, with applied polymer-ceramic lume plots. But the Ultra is a little more extreme, with beefier hands and markers. The indexes and bezel graduations are lumed in a cool blue colour, while the minute hand is painted with a contrasting shade of green.

Speaking of lume, the Ultra features a luminous pip on the T-fit clasp to indicate which extension setting is in use, whether it’s one of the micro-adjustment steps or the full dive extension. The pip is colour-matched to the shade of teal used for the Pelagos dial text, which gives the monochromatic clasp an unexpected splash of colour.

The Tudor T-fit clasp, upgraded with a luminous pip. Image – Tudor

The Ultra is a Master Chronometer, which means the MT5612-U movement is COSC-certified and the fully cased watch is later subjected to a full battery of tests to verify its water resistance and chronometric performance when exposed to magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss. The Master Chronometer standard, originally developed by Omega, is among the most stringent testing regimes in the industry and guarantees the Ultra’s rate to run within a tight range of 0 and +5 seconds per day.

At US$6,100, the Ultra is pricey for a Tudor but still manages to undercut rival Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 600 m by a third, while offering even more water resistance. Tudor is known for offering good value-for-money, and that’s still true even as prices have ticked up in recent years.

As expected, the build quality is excellent, with an easy-to-operate screw-down crown and buttery smooth bezel detents. The only tell-tale sign of the affordable pricing is the uneven paint job at the base of the hands (visible below).

Reaching new depths

Rated to 1,000 m, the Ultra is one of the deepest-diving Tudor watches ever, second only to the Hydronaut 1200 produced between 2009 and 2012 (and never missed). Tudor would probably rather you forget they made the Hydronaut, seemingly born from a designer’s fever dream.

Of course, being a true diving watch the Ultra is tested to even greater depths than what is stated on the dial. The international standard for dive watches, ISO 6425, stipulates testing to at least 125% of the stated depth, meaning the Ultra should be able to hold its own down to at least 1,250 m.

Built to tolerate the rigors of saturation diving, the Ultra features a flush-fit automatic helium escape valve (HEV) at nine o’clock.

HEVs are somewhat controversial considering there are apparently just a few hundred saturation divers in the world. Critics are quick to point out the HEV is an unnecessary gimmick that just creates another hole in the case that could potentially leak. But in my view this misses the forest for the trees; mechanical dive watches are themselves unnecessary, but they are cool and fun and the HEV is an interesting technical detail that makes sense on the Ultra.

One minor quibble is the crystal, which distorts the dial when viewed from an angle. This is due to the extreme thickness of the crystal, which is necessary to tolerate the intense pressure experienced at 1,000 m. All the same, it’s more distortion than I’m used to seeing, even within the genre of overbuilt dive watches like the Ultra.

Another Master Chronometer

The Ultra is powered by the automatic MT5612-U movement, hidden behind a solid titanium case back. The MT5612 designation is familiar, having been in service for a decade. It’s a COSC-certified chronometer that features a silicon hairspring and a free-sprung balance, and runs for up to 65 hours once fully wound.

The MT5612 movement. Image – Tudor

But the “U” designation is comparatively new and means that the movement is now a METAS-certified Master Chronometer, which conforms to even more stringent criteria. The Master Chronometer designation was developed by Omega in partnership with METAS, Switzerland’s national bureau for standards and measurements.

Magnetic testing apparatus at the Tudor manufacture. Image – Tudor

Originally developed to differentiate Omega’s magnetism-resistant watches, the Master Chronometer standard requires watches to resist up to 15,000 Gauss. Omega opened up this testing regime to other brands, assuming few would dare. Tudor called Omega’s bluff in 2021, and since then has been slowing rolling out the Master Chronometer certification across its collections.

Immersion testing in water, a requirement of the METAS certification. Image – Tudor

Closing thoughts

While most buyers will probably be happier with the more wearable Pelagos 42 or the compact Pelagos 39, the Ultra is arguably the best value-for-money among ‘extreme’ divers that can withstand depths in excess of a kilometer. It’s attractive and comfortable despite its robust dimensions, and is a worthy capstone to the Pelagos collection.

Key facts and price

Tudor Pelagos Ultra
Ref. M2543C1A7NU-0001

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 1,000 m

Movement: Cal. MT5612-U
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with T-fit clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$6,100

For more, visit tudorwatch.com.

In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces.

The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers.

Initial thoughts

I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer.

Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case.

I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensive than its steel equivalent that’s under US$5,900.

Racing colours

The Carbon 25 has a case of carbon composite that is the same diameter as its steel counterpart, but 0.1 mm thinner. While the material is new, the design remains identical, right down to the insert between the lugs that mimics the end links of an Oyster bracelet. As is the norm for a composite case, the back is metal alloy – here the back is titanium with a black coating.

The domed dial is a “panda” of sorts – white with black registers – but the registers are actually carbon composite just like the case. The blue seconds scale on the dial’s edge mimics 1970s chronographs, while most of the text on the dial is also in blue to match. Red accents on the central seconds hand and depth rating complete the livery inspired by VCARB’s team colours.

The case back is engraved with both a VCARB Formula 1 car and the individual number of each watch. Underneath is the MT5813, the same calibre found in all Tudor chronographs.

Derived from the architecture of the Breitling B01, the MT5813 has all of the features expected in a modern chronograph, including a column wheel, vertical clutch, free-sprung balance, and a 70-hour power reserve. And like many Tudor movements, it is equipped with a silicon hairspring.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
Ref. M79377KN-0001

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Material: Carbon fibre composite
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5813
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph 
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Leather-rubber hybrid

Limited edition: 2,025 pieces
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$7,575

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Tudor has given its Black Bay Pro a new look with an “opaline” white dial, fulfilling a long-standing enthusiasts’ wish. This new model replaces the black dial launched in 2022, while retaining the same 39 mm case and 24-hour fixed bezel. It’s equipped with a pale orange GMT hand that stands out prominently against the “polar” white dial.

Initial thoughts

Three years after its initial release, the Black Bay Pro remains one of the strongest value propositions in the sub–US$5,000 segment of dual time zone watches. Priced at US$4,375 on a steel bracelet, the Black Bay Pro is a true GMT with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Plus it features a solid bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp and a high-spec in-house movement. Naturally, the fact that it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II “polar” doesn’t hurt.

The only drawback is the 14.6 mm case that is a little too thick for its compact diameter. Fortunately, Tudor does offer a better proportioned dual time zone with the Black Bay 58 GMT, but that’s only available in black and burgundy for now.

Opaline dial

The domed white dial is the star of the show. Like the original model, it features applied luminous ceramic-polymer hour markers. Here the markings are in black on a matte white dial, matched with an orange GMT hand.

Apart from the dial, the watch remains identical to the earlier Black Bay Pro. It features a 39 mm case housing the COSC-certified MT5652 movement, which operates at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and provides a 70-hour power reserve.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Pro
Ref. 79470

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5652
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet; fabric or rubber strap

Availability: Now at Tudor retailers and boutiques
Price: US$4,050 on strap, US$4,375 on bracelet

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Tudor surprised with the Black Bay Chrono Pink early last year, and it’s now done the same with the Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”. Like last year’s pink chronograph, the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono, but with a coloured dial in a bright turquoise. And it will similarly be made in “limited” numbers, though is it not a limited edition.

Initial thoughts

Bright-c0loured dials used to be a novelty for Tudor, but now such “special editions” have become a regular part of the collection. It makes them a bit more predictable and thus less interesting, but they are still intrinsically appealing.

Like its predecessors, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is fun and in typical Tudor fashion, excellent value for money. I liked the pink version enough that I bought one. The combination of a bright dial and “Jubilee” bracelet is a good one; it’s clearly a modern watch but many of the elements have a retro feel.

But the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono so it is a little thick and chunky. Eventually Tudor will introduce a smaller in-house chronograph movement (the current MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01), but for now this has to do.

Miami vibes

According to Tudor, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is meant to evoke the “classic South Beach vibe”, a reference to the coastal Miami neighbourhood. The American inspiration is perhaps because the country is now the world’s strongest watch market. The brand goes on to explain that blue flamingos do not exist, but they stand out, which is what this watch is meant to do.

All that aside, the new Black Bay Chrono is a striking watch. It has the typically chunky dimensions of the Black Bay Chrono at 41 mm wide and 14.4 mm high. The case sports a fixed bezel with a black aluminium insert with a tachymetric scale, along with a domed sapphire crystal. A detail that enthusiasts will appreciate is the wide, polished bevel along the upper edge of the lugs, a nod to vintage Rolex and Tudor Oyster cases.

The “5-link” bracelet is a nice touch, and also equipped with the useful T-Fit clasp that incorporates a micro-adjustment function of up to 8 mm.

Like all Black Bay Chronos, this is powered by the MT5813, a self-winding movement based on the Breitling B01. The B01 is already one of the leading industrial chronograph calibres in terms of construction, but the Tudor version is further upgraded with a free-sprung balance and silicon hairspring.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue
Ref. 79360N-0024

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5813
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph 
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: 5-link steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$5,875

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected.

Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000.

Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph — David Ichim

A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” — drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes.

The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique. 

Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator.

In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 7750, allowing it to be thinner while requiring assembly by hand. This reflects the technical talent of Albishorn founder Sébastien Chaulmontet, who was head of innovation at La Joux-Perret and then Sellita.

At a bit over US$4,000, the Type 10 is an appealing proposition. 

Grand Seiko 45GS Re-creation SLGW005 – Brandon Moore

The launch of the manually wound, high-beat cal. 9SA4 was one of the highlights of Watches & Wonders for me, and I immediately liked the watch in which it debuted, the “Birch Bark” SLGW003. And I still like that watch, just not as much as I like the vintage-inspired SLGW005 that debuted a few months later, which in my view is one of the most compelling vintage remakes on the market from any brand. And it’s priced a little under US$10,000, which is good value considering the movement.

The SLGW005 is appealing because it delivers on the promise of the original 45GS from 1968, which also contained a manually wound, high-beat movement that ticked at 5 Hz. While Grand Seiko has made 5 Hz movements for years, the cal. 9SA4 is a step up sophistication and performance, featuring an overcoil hairspring, a free-sprung balance, and a proprietary escapement that helps boost the power reserve to 80 hours, in conjunction with twin mainspring barrels.

Among the many mechanical movements produced by Grand Seiko today, the cal. 9SA4 is, in my view, the one that best embodies the spirit of innovation that led Grand Seiko to success in the 1960s and 1970s.

The cal. 9SA4, seen here in the SLGW003

In the SLGW005, that excellent, modern movement is combined with a faithful vintage remake. The vintage elements are nicely done, particularly the font choice for “HI-BEAT” and “36000”, which look a lot better than the painfully plain font choice used for the equivalent markings on the SLGW003. Even the Daini Seikosha lightning bolt symbol is present, lending the watch an extra bit of historical flair.

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II – SJX

Louis Erard has been rolling out collaborations with independent watchmakers for a long time now, so there are many of them on the market. The second edition of the Vianney Halter regulator, however, stands out as the best collaboration to date.

Not only does it capture the look and feel of the Antiqua perpetual calendar at a modest price, but it is also unique amongst Louis Erard’s collaborations. While most of its past collabs employed the stock case and movement, with only a dial swap, the Vianney Halter II has a case, bezel, back, crown, and dial that are unique – all for a little under US$5,000, or about 10% more than past collaborations.

The detail on the bezel, crown, and dial are impressive for the price, especially in how they manage to replicate the look of the Antiqua. The bezel has gold-plated rivets, while the applied chapter rings on the dial have mirrored edges.

Like all Louis Erard regulator models, this suffers from a large and thick case due to the movement, but it is forgivable given the price.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT – Brandon Moore

It’s easy to understand the appeal of the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. The design is popular, the compact case fits most wrists well, and the movement is among the best in its class in terms of both its performance and its functionality, offering an independently adjustable hour hand for easy adjustments when crossing time zones.

Furthermore, it benefits from Tudor’s relationship to its parent company, Rolex, enabling it to lean in to the vintage GMT-Master aesthetic without coming off as a copy. It’s a difficult balancing act to pull off, but it works. And if that weren’t enough, the price is right, with the version on the bracelet priced at US$4,600, which arguably makes the BB58 GMT the best value amongst dual-time watches in this price segment.

Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” – Jason Lee

The Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) offers a range of features that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a vintage-inspired “soleil” dial and the latest-generation Moonwatch cal. 3861.

While it does share the design of the original FOiS, and of course it’s a remake of the vintage CK 2998, the latest FOiS is an entirely distinct watch that’s arguably the ideal fusion of classic and contemporary.

Unfortunately, the FOiS also features prominently pronounced faux-vintage lume, which is inevitably controversial. However, it harmonises well with the dial’s blue-grey colour.

Lume aside, the FOiS excels in most tangible aspects, which makes its US$7,900 retail price on a bracelet (and a bit less on a strap) a good value proportion.

Building upon the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” made just for the Miami Grand Prix in May, Tudor just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic in green-blue livery, which will be worn by drivers Yuki Tsunoda and Liam Lawson of the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team (VCARB) during the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix. Inspired by the glittering lights and colours of the Las Vegas strip that hosts the circuit, the one-off Black Bay Ceramic a speckled, graduated green-blue dial paired with a matching strap.

Initial thoughts

Since the announcement of the partnership between Tudor and the VCARB Formula 1 Team, the watchmaker has already unveiled several VCARB editions. The Las Vegas and Miami race editions are more striking and unusual, but unfortunately only issued to the team drivers for the race. Regular folk will have to make do with the Black Bay Ceramic VCARB that’s available in stores and good value, but not quite as unique.

While it might seem that that special editions from Tudor are many, the brand’s collaborative watches mirrors the approach taken by Rolex decades ago, when the Geneva giant made watches for various professionals. Besides VCARB, Tudor has made watches for French navy aviators, the Alinghi America’s Cup team, and reputedly the US Navy’s elite SEALs.

The colours of the Strip

The dial and strap feature a green-blue finish modelled by the VCARB livery for the Las Vegas Grand Prix, which is in turn inspired by the reflected lights of the Las Vegas Strip.

Aside from the dial and strap, the timepiece is identical to the standard Black Bay Ceramic. It has a 41 mm black ceramic case housing the METAS and COSC-certified MT5602-1U movement, which beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 70 hours of power reserve.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Las Vegas Grand Prix” for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5602-1U
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Leather-covered rubber

Availability: A pair made for Visa Cash App RB Formula One team drivers
Price: Not available

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Created in collaboration with the aviators of Aéronautique Navale, the air branch of the French navy, the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time is Tudor’s latest wristwatch developed for a militaruunit.

A sibling of Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” issued to French navy divers, the Pelagos GMT Zulu Time is housed in a titanium Pelagos case with fixed lug bars (hence “FXD”). Featuring a ceramic bezel with a luminescent 24-hour scale, the Pelagos GMT adds the long-awaited second time zone function to the Pelagos line of professional-spec dive watches. It sports a bright orange GMT hand along with faux-vintage, vanilla-tone block markers and “snowflake” hands.

Initial thoughts

Tudor was a historical supplier of watches to the French navy starting in the 1950s, a relationship that was revived in 2021 with the Pelagos FXD. The Pelagos GMT continues the partnership, but pivots to address the needs of naval pilots instead of divers. This also makes it more useful for civilians, since a dual time zone function is more practical for most than a deep-sea diver’s watch.

At 42 mm in diameter, however, the Pelagos GMT is one of Tudor’s larger watches, which means it probably isn’t as handy for traveling as the compact Black Bay 58 GMT that’s just 39 mm. Still, the titanium case helps with lightness, and the large size suits the military design.

In typical Tudor fashion, the Pelagos GMT is an excellent value proposition. For US$4,625, you get a titanium case with ceramic bezel, plus a METAS and COSC-certified in-house calibre. Moreover, it sports a true GMT function that’s integrated into the movement, unlike most GMT watches in this price range that rely on an add-on hour hand.

A pilot’s tool

The Pelagos GMT is essentially a Pelagos FXD that gains a GMT function, so it retains the same case with fixed bars that measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.7 mm in thickness. Like the other FXD models, the GMT has a titanium case that’s entirely brushed and water resistant to 200 m. The bidirectional rotating bezel is also titanium, while the 24-hour insert is black ceramic with luminous markings.

Notably, the case is paired with a strap specific to the Pelagos GMT. It’s a one-piece strap in the same military-green colour as the flight suit of French navy pilots. It’s fitted to a titanium pin buckle and sports a removable fabric keeper bearing the emblem of French Naval Aviation.

The black dial similarly retains the familiar Pelagos design with “snowflake” hands and an orange GMT pointer. Notably, the Super-LumiNova on the dial, hands, and bezel has a faux-vintage appearance in daytime, but is colour coded in the dark. The hour, minute, and seconds hand glow blue, while the GMT hand and bezel markings glow green.

The Pelagos GMT is powered by the MT5652-U that’s both METAS and COSC-certified. It has 65 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz). Equipped with a silicon balance spring, the movement is magnetism resistant up to 15,000 gauss.

The movement is concealed beneath a solid case back engraved with the anchor symbol of Aéronautique Navale, along with the year of production, just like the Pelagos FXD. Watches produced in 2024, for example, will be engraved “M.N.24”, with letters short for Marine Nationale.

Key facts and price

Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”
Ref. 2542G247NU

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.7 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5652-U
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Fabric strap with titanium pin buckle and green removable fabric keeper

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$4,625

For more, visit tudorwatch.com.

Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet.

Initial thoughts

Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial.

However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design.

Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point.

Tudor blue

The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sides. The lugs are cut with polished bevels for additional contrast.

The aluminium bezel insert with a tachymeter scale matches the dial

The highlight of the new model is the blue sunburst dial with silver chronograph registers. The “snowflake” hands and the applied indices are filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in dark environments.

The “5-link” bracelet features the brand’s T-Fit micro-adjustment function, allowing the wearer to adjust the bracelet by millimetres on the go, without the use of tools.

Under the solid case back lies the MT5813. Based on the Breitling B01, the movement features a column wheel and a vertical clutch.

Boasting 70 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance spring, it is COSC-certified and beats at 28,800 beats per second (4 Hz).

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition
Ref. 76360B

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5813
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph 
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: 5-link steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques
Price: US$5,675

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.