Omega continues its trickle of summer releases with the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise, which has its smoked turquoise dial now matched with a black ceramic bezel for a cohesive look.

Available in both 38 mm and 41 mm formats, the new Aqua Terra is pricier and arguably less versatile than the standard Aqua Terra, yet is strongly appealing – is the blue worth the green?

Initial Thoughts

The ceramic mania that gripped the industry a few years ago has cooled, but the material is here to stay, and this example is all the better for it. We’ve already seen this dial on a pair of bracelet-borne Aqua Terra earlier this year. Now it’s back with an integrated rubber strap and complementary black ceramic bezel.

Even though this lacks the bracelet of the all-steel version, it’s more expensive, priced at about US$1,000 over the steel model on a bracelet. The retail price of US$7,300 is still affordable, and acceptable given the level of quality, but the value proposition is less clear.

While the Aqua Terra’s boardwalk-to-boardroom versatility makes it a prime candidate for someone’s sole, “go anywhere, do anything” watch, the exotic colour palette and lack of a bracelet rule it out as such for most people. Instead, I imagine Omega is targeting brand fans who are less price-sensitive looking for a summer watch. Even for an owner of more than one Omega, the new Aqua Terra is different enough to make it interesting.

Deja Blue

While no longer novel, the fume turquoise dial remains striking as ever. The black gradient smoothly transitions to the DLC-blackened indices, and allows the turquoise minute track to pop. The hands match the indices, which match the bezel, which matches the strap – which has turquoise accents to bring everything full circle.

Even the lume, Super-LumiNova BGW9, glows blue-green, though this is the same lume as on other Aqua Terras, and only complementary by coincidence. The only detail out of place is the steel crown, which is typically matched to the bezel in two-tone watches, but not here.

Since other Aqua Terras with the same cases wear well, these will too; the lyre lugs are compact and the rubber strap dives down, so the two case sizes should cover almost everyone.

The jewel-like flared crown is another ergonomic highlight, being very easy to manipulate, which is important for a screw down crown.

Movement

It’s no secret Omega’s pricing has crept upwards in the past few years, but you still get a lot for your money, at least movement wise, thanks to Swatch Group’s cutting edge technology and economies of scale.

The 41 mm model uses cal. 8900, a large automatic with an independently adjustable hour hand (handy for globe trotters) and 60 hours of power reserve from two barrels. The 38 mm employs the cal. 8800, a mid-sized movement with 55 hours of power reserve.

Both are equipped with Omega’s Co-Axial escapement, and perhaps more importantly, a free sprung titanium balance on silicon hairspring, resulting in excellent chronometric performance, and near immunity to magnetism. The movements are workhorses, but well groomed ones, with pleasing arabesque striping and a cohesive black and silver palette.

Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M
Ref. 220.32.38.20.03.001 (38 mm)
Ref. 220.32.41.21.03.001 (41 mm)

Diameter: 38 mm or 41 mm
Height: 12.36 mm (38 mm); 13.26 mm (41 mm)
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 150 m

Movement: Cal. 8800 (38 mm); cal. 8900 (41 mm)
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours (38 mm); 60 hours (41 mm)

Strap: Black rubber with steel clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$7,300

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

Omega’s latest Aqua Terra is a competent women’s watch with a brand-new calibre that is both compact and proficient. Equipped with the new cal. 8750/8751, the Aqua Terra 150M 30 mm launches with a healthy mix of metal variations and dials across 12 models that will surely expand in time.

Initial Thoughts

Despite scarce coverage in watch media, watches made for, and marketed to women are very important to the industry. And, women have rewarded brands that put in the effort with enormous success. The Lady-Datejust, for instance, is often rumored to be Rolex’s highest volume model.

While Omega offered an Aqua Terra 30 mm in the past, the Constellation has arguably the brand’s champion in the segment for the last few years. The new Aqua Terra 30 mm might look similar to its predecessor, but it stands out for the new cal. 8750/8751 that is a Master Chronometer-certified movement.

Building a movement that can consistently meet Master Chronometer standards, while being small and thin, is an achievement on its own. All else being equal, larger movements perform better than smaller ones; the difference is significant enough that the ISO 3159 chronometer standard that form the COSC testing standards has less stringent requirements for movements 20 mm and under.

Options

Omega’s watches are often, and fairly, criticized for being unnecessarily thick, but that isn’t the case here, thanks in part to the new caliber. All steel and two-tone models are 10.6 mm tall (10.7 mm for gold cases) without sacrificing the 150 m water resistance and date found the larger Aqua Terras.

All versions of the new Aqua Terra 30 mm are fitted to three link bracelets with a butterfly clasp and 2 mm of tool-less quick adjust. Omega confusingly describes the bracelets as “integrated” but they are not and are exchangeable for any normal 14 mm wide strap.

The lineup comprises five steel models, three yellow gold, three two-tone, and one rose gold. The gem-set models, and rose gold two-tone have diamonds hour markers, while lume-filled boat-shaped indices furnish the rest.

Each dial is unique to its metal, except for the mother-of-pearl dial, which is shared between yellow gold and two-tone models.

Movement

Omega’s repertoire has included a small, high-spec automatic movement since 2008. Performance wise, the new cal. 8750/8751 is a lateral move as the antecedent cal. 8700 also meets Master Chronometer standards, but the new caliber is 1.3 mm thinner at 3.98 mm, which is significant.

The reduced height comes at the cost of two hours off the power reserve, but 48 hours is perfectly acceptable given the constrained size, and not far shy of the much-larger cal. 8800’s 55 hours.

The cal. 8750/8751 uses the latest version of Omega’s Co-Axial escapement, but a key factor in its accuracy is the free-sprung balance with four white gold regulating screws on a silicon balance spring.

The steel model is equipped with the cal. 8750, while the Moonshine (yellow) and Sedna (rose) gold versions are upgraded with 18k rose gold rotors and balance bridges known as are the cal. 8751. This increases the height of the movement marginally (to 4.08) mm but looks great on the rose gold model, though is somewhat jarring against the yellow gold cases since the movement parts do not match the case.

Key facts and price

Omega Seasmaster Aqua Terra 150M 30 mm
Ref. 220.10.30.20.01.001 (Steel, Black)
Ref. 220.10.30.20.03.001 (Steel, Blue)
Ref. 220.10.30.20.02.001 (Steel, Silver)
Ref. 220.10.30.20.10.002 (Steel, Lavender)
Ref. 220.15.30.20.56.001 (Steel, Grey)
Ref. 220.20.30.20.02.001 (Steel and Moonshine gold mm, Silver)
Ref. 220.20.30.20.63.001 (Steel and Sedna gold, Brown)
Ref. 220.25.30.20.55.001 (Steel and Moonshine gold, White)
Ref. 220.50.30.20.09.001 (Sedna gold, Linen)
Ref. 220.50.30.20.08.001 (Moonshine gold, Yellow)
Ref. 220.55.30.20.60.001 (Moonshine gold, Green)
Ref. 220.55.30.20.55.001 (Moonshine gold, White)

Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 10.6 mm (steel); 10.7 mm (gold)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 150 m

Movement: Cal. 8750 (steel); Cal. 8751 (gold)
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: Starting from US$6,600 in steel; US$11,000 in steel and Moonshine gold; US$18,700 in steel and Moonshine gold with diamonds; US$41,000 in Moonshine gold with diamonds and mother-of-pearl-dial

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

Omega’s latest is an unusual combination of a 600 m-rated dive watch with a Cottier-style world time. The Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer shares the oversized ceramic case of the Planet Ocean Deep Black, but is the first model in the collection to incorporate a world time complication.

Initial thoughts

While the Worldtimer makes a bold statement, a US$14,800 price tag and substantial case dimensions may limit its appeal – particularly for those with average-sized wrists. Still, it offers a somewhat paradoxical and oddly specific combination of features, so someone seeking a world time watch ready for saturation diving, there are few other options. Of the two available colourways, I would choose the low-key grey edition for its greater versatility compared to the turquoise version.

Worldtimer

Offered with either turquoise or grey accents, the new Planet Ocean is housed in a black ceramic case measuring 45.5 mm in diameter and 17.4 mm in thickness. Signature Seamaster case elements, including twisted lyre lugs, a helium escape valve, and “Broad Arrow” hands, complete the design.

The standout feature the world time complication with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. At the centre is a titanium disc displaying a view of the Earth from the North Pole, with continents and colours rendered with varnish and laser engraving. A 24-hour ring in transparent hesalite is shaded in black and white to denote night and day. The chapter ring for the hours is embellished with a honeycomb pattern, while the outermost ring has 24 cities representing the 24 primer time zones.

Powering the watch is Omega’s in-house self-winding cal. 8938, which is a Master Chronometer certified by METAS and therefore magnetic-resistant up to 15,000 gauss.

Operating at a frequency of 3.5 Hz, it provides a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is decorated with radial striping arabesque, along with contrasting blackened screws, barrels, and balance wheel.

Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer
Ref. 215.92.46.22.01.006
Ref. 215.92.46.22.01.007

Diameter: 45.5 mm
Height: 17.4 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 600 m

Movement: Cal. 8938
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and worldtimer
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$14,800

For more information, visit Omegawatches.com.

While the original Seamaster 300M from 2019 was a no-frills, James Bond-inspired watch, the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy is a refined evolution of the design that employs Omega’s proprietary gold alloy.

Used by Omega as well as its sister company Blancpain, Bronze Gold is an alloy of bronze, palladium, silver, and 37.5% gold — making it a 9k gold alloy — that has enhanced corrosion resistance while having the warm hue of bronze but without the accentuated patina that accompanies conventional versions of the metal. Aside from the Bronze Gold case and burgundy bezel, the design remains virtually unchanged, retaining the signature “twisted” lugs of the Seamaster.

Initial thoughts

Omega has introduced several variants of the model since the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition, among them the recent “No-Date”. This time-only design, which omits the date window, has enjoyed commercial success, highlighting the appeal of a cleaner dial, especially on a watch with some vintage flavour. In this context, the Seamaster 300M Bronze Gold is a natural evolution of the collection, bringing it upmarket as is the norm for a successful model.

The upgrade, however, comes at a price. At US$13,900 on a rubber strap, the Bronze Gold edition is more than twice the price of the steel model. And the version on a matching Bronze Gold mesh bracelet costs a whopping US$27,900.

Granted, the new Seamaster 300M is gold, but not really, since it’s a 9k alloy, which is far below the purity considered actual gold (which is 18k or 75%) in modern luxury watchmaking. It does cost less than an 18k gold dive watch, but not that much less. The Tudor Black Bay 18k retails for about US$18,000 for instance.

While the new Seamaster does have visual and tactile appeal, the price means that either a base model in steel or an actual 18k gold diver makes more sense.

9k gold

The new Seamaster 300M is virtually unchanged from its predecessor in terms of design, retaining the no-date layout, but is entirely differently in execution in both colours and materials. The case is Bronze Gold, a 9k gold alloy, matched with a burgundy aluminium bezel insert.

Notably, the matte black sandblasted dial is also aluminium, while the hands are plated in Bronze Gold. The Super-Luminova are off-white for a vintage feel, which is matched with dial markings in light brown.

The watch is powered by the in-house cal. 8806, a METAS-certified movement operating at 3.5 Hz with a 55-hour power reserve. Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement features a free-sprung balance with a silicon hairspring and a paramagnetic escapement, ensuring magnetic resistance up to 15,000 Gauss.

Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy
Ref. 210.90.42.20.01.003 (On a mesh bracelet)
Ref. 210.92.42.20.01.003 (On a rubber strap)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.8 mm
Material: 9k Bronze gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 8806
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Bronze Gold mesh bracelet or black rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques or retailers
Price: US$13,900 on a rubber strap; US$27,900 on a Bronze Gold mesh bracelet

For more, visit Omegawatches.com.

One year from now, the 2026 Winter Olympics will commence in Italy. To mark the milestone, Omega has created one of its most striking vintage reissues to date, the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026. A homage to the vintage Seamaster Olympic created for the 1956 Melbourne Games, the new edition stays true to its heritage, but isn’t a one-for-one remake.

Instead it’s is a blend of elements characteristic of 1950s Omega watches, including distinctive “dog leg” lugs and hexagonal crown of the Constellation, along with a white grand feu enamel dial that’s a nod to the cream enamel dial of the Seamaster Olympic.

Initial thoughts

The new Seamaster revives some of the best design elements of 1950s Omega wristwatches, primarily the Constellation, while incorporating the key details of the Seamaster Olympic. The mix works surprisingly well, and results in a watch that has a pleasing vintage feel. The case is a little bigger and thicker than the original, but still sized reasonably well.

While it is not an imaginative creation, the new Seamaster looks good. The visual and tactile appeal will also be enhanced by the high quality of execution typical of modern Omega watches, especially on the dial and case.

The Seamaster 37 mm costs US$19,300, leaving it amongst the pricier time-only watches in the Omega catalogue and well beyond the sweet spot on the price spectrum for the brand. That said, it is decent enough value considering the case in Moonshine gold, fired enamel dial with solid gold appliqués and hands, and of course a latest-generation Master Co-Axial cal. 8807.

1950s style revived

The Seamaster 37 mm adopts elements from various vintage Omega models in a coherent manner. With its angled “dog leg” lugs and six-sided crown, the case is reminiscent of the Constellation, but it’s slightly larger than a 1950s watch, having been sized up for modern tastes and the calibre inside. The case is 37 mm wide and slightly thick at 11.4 mm tall, and it’s in 18k Moonshine gold, Omega’s proprietary yellow gold alloy. Despite the retro style and precious metal, the case is still water resistant to 100 m.

The dial is white grand feu enamel, a material that takes after the Seamaster Olympic that similarly had a fired enamel dial. While the vintage Seamaster had prominent Olympic branding on the dial – one version featured a large Olympic “Cross of Merit” emblem – the new model keeps the dial elegantly minimalist. As is the norm for most high-end Omega models, all of the elements on the dial are solid gold, including the applied logo and hands.

The solid case back bears the relief logo of the 2026 Winter Games that will take place in the twin northern Italian cities of Milan and Cortina d’Ampezzo.

Beneath is the Master Co-Axial cal. 8807. It’s a Master Chronometer that’s certified by METAS to meet a variety of functional criteria, including magnetism resistance of up to 15,000 gauss. Fitting with a free sprung-balance and silicon hairspring, the cal. 8807 is has 55 hours of power reserve.

Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026
Ref. 522.53.37.20.04.001

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 11.4 mm
Material: 18k Moonshine gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 8807
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Brown alligator leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$19,300

For more, visit omegawatches.com

Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials:  the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite.

The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel.

Initial thoughts

Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite?

Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor.

Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White”, reflecting the overall state of the market.

Lunar rock

The Speedmaster is equipped with a range of complications beyond the basic chronograph. A single sub-dial at three o’clock contains both the 12-hour and 60-minute chronograph counters, while the small seconds and pointer date are placed at nine o’clock.

Taking centerstage at six o’clock is the moon phase, now in double moon format. Each applied Moon is  lunar meteorite in “cabochon” form, giving the Moon a domed surface.

Powering the watch is Omega’s proprietary manual-winding cal. 9914 beating at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz). Offering 60 hours of power reserve, the movement employs a vertical clutch and column wheel for the chronograph.

The cal 9914 is METAS-certified, which entails magnetism resistance of up to 15,000 gauss thanks to a silicon hairspring and non-magnetic escapement.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite
Ref. 304.30.43.52.01.001

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 9914
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, pointer date, moon phase and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual-wind
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$17,100

For more, visit omegawatches.com

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected.

Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000.

Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph — David Ichim

A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” — drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes.

The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique. 

Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator.

In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 7750, allowing it to be thinner while requiring assembly by hand. This reflects the technical talent of Albishorn founder Sébastien Chaulmontet, who was head of innovation at La Joux-Perret and then Sellita.

At a bit over US$4,000, the Type 10 is an appealing proposition. 

Grand Seiko 45GS Re-creation SLGW005 – Brandon Moore

The launch of the manually wound, high-beat cal. 9SA4 was one of the highlights of Watches & Wonders for me, and I immediately liked the watch in which it debuted, the “Birch Bark” SLGW003. And I still like that watch, just not as much as I like the vintage-inspired SLGW005 that debuted a few months later, which in my view is one of the most compelling vintage remakes on the market from any brand. And it’s priced a little under US$10,000, which is good value considering the movement.

The SLGW005 is appealing because it delivers on the promise of the original 45GS from 1968, which also contained a manually wound, high-beat movement that ticked at 5 Hz. While Grand Seiko has made 5 Hz movements for years, the cal. 9SA4 is a step up sophistication and performance, featuring an overcoil hairspring, a free-sprung balance, and a proprietary escapement that helps boost the power reserve to 80 hours, in conjunction with twin mainspring barrels.

Among the many mechanical movements produced by Grand Seiko today, the cal. 9SA4 is, in my view, the one that best embodies the spirit of innovation that led Grand Seiko to success in the 1960s and 1970s.

The cal. 9SA4, seen here in the SLGW003

In the SLGW005, that excellent, modern movement is combined with a faithful vintage remake. The vintage elements are nicely done, particularly the font choice for “HI-BEAT” and “36000”, which look a lot better than the painfully plain font choice used for the equivalent markings on the SLGW003. Even the Daini Seikosha lightning bolt symbol is present, lending the watch an extra bit of historical flair.

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II – SJX

Louis Erard has been rolling out collaborations with independent watchmakers for a long time now, so there are many of them on the market. The second edition of the Vianney Halter regulator, however, stands out as the best collaboration to date.

Not only does it capture the look and feel of the Antiqua perpetual calendar at a modest price, but it is also unique amongst Louis Erard’s collaborations. While most of its past collabs employed the stock case and movement, with only a dial swap, the Vianney Halter II has a case, bezel, back, crown, and dial that are unique – all for a little under US$5,000, or about 10% more than past collaborations.

The detail on the bezel, crown, and dial are impressive for the price, especially in how they manage to replicate the look of the Antiqua. The bezel has gold-plated rivets, while the applied chapter rings on the dial have mirrored edges.

Like all Louis Erard regulator models, this suffers from a large and thick case due to the movement, but it is forgivable given the price.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT – Brandon Moore

It’s easy to understand the appeal of the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. The design is popular, the compact case fits most wrists well, and the movement is among the best in its class in terms of both its performance and its functionality, offering an independently adjustable hour hand for easy adjustments when crossing time zones.

Furthermore, it benefits from Tudor’s relationship to its parent company, Rolex, enabling it to lean in to the vintage GMT-Master aesthetic without coming off as a copy. It’s a difficult balancing act to pull off, but it works. And if that weren’t enough, the price is right, with the version on the bracelet priced at US$4,600, which arguably makes the BB58 GMT the best value amongst dual-time watches in this price segment.

Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” – Jason Lee

The Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) offers a range of features that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a vintage-inspired “soleil” dial and the latest-generation Moonwatch cal. 3861.

While it does share the design of the original FOiS, and of course it’s a remake of the vintage CK 2998, the latest FOiS is an entirely distinct watch that’s arguably the ideal fusion of classic and contemporary.

Unfortunately, the FOiS also features prominently pronounced faux-vintage lume, which is inevitably controversial. However, it harmonises well with the dial’s blue-grey colour.

Lume aside, the FOiS excels in most tangible aspects, which makes its US$7,900 retail price on a bracelet (and a bit less on a strap) a good value proportion.

Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet.

The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside.

Initial thoughts

I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec.

While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance.

That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots.

Even though this is make-believe military, the Speedmaster Pilot is still a reasonable value proposition considering the usual Omega quality, in particular the cal. 9900 that’s a METAS-certified Master Chronometer amongst other things.

Aviation-inspired

The Speedmaster Pilot has a large case typical of Omega’s watches equipped with its automatic chronograph movements. The stainless steel case is 40.85 mm in diameter and 14.7 mm in thickness, though it retains the familiar straight-lug Speedmaster case that’s paired with a retro-style “flat link” bracelet.

The bezel insert is in matte black aluminium and incorporates a historical detail with a “dot over ninety” or “DON” bezel, along with subtle orange accents that echo the dial.

The grained, matte black dial features design elements that evoke the aesthetics of an aircraft cockpit. The three o’clock sub-dial echoes the look of an airspeed display, while the nine o’clock small seconds sub-dial adopts a horizon indicator-style design.

Beneath the solid case back bearing the Speedmaster seahorse emblem engraving is the in-house, self-winding cal. 9900, which beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 60 hours of power reserve. It’s one of Omega’s highest-spec movements and equipped with a column wheel, vertical clutch, Co-Axial escapement, and a silicon balance spring.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Pilot
Ref. 332.10.41.51.01.002

Diameter: 40.85 mm
Height: 14.7 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9900
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet; additional grey NATO-style strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$9,500

For more, visit omegawatches.com

Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me.

The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861.

Initial thoughts

Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect.

Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul.

My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat.

Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I find the aged lume entirely appropriate for the vintage-inspired design.

The FOiS just works. Although it may look similar to the first-generation FOiS, and of course similar to the vintage CK 2998, the new FOiS is an entirely different watch that is arguably a perfect blend of old and new. It has a new dial, case, crystal and bracelet, plus the latest-generation cal. 3861 that’s a Co-Axial Master Chronometer.

Notably, at US$7,900, the FOiS is slightly less expensive than the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with the same cal. 3861 movement, making the FOiS arguably the better buy.

The first-generation FOiS with its flat black dial

Blue-grey “soleil”

The new FOiS is a faithful reproduction of the CK2998, the second Speedmaster model after the CK 2915. Produced from 1959 to about 1962, the CK 2998 had many of the features synonymous with vintage Speedmasters, including the “dot over 90” aluminium bezel insert, almost all of which had been recreated in the FOiS.

Like the vintage original, the FOiS case is 39.7 mm in diameter and does without crown guards. It has “straight” lugs, instead of the “lyre” lugs found on subsequent Speedmaster iterations. In fact, the FOiS case is nearly identical to another of Omega’s recent remakes, the Speedmaster 321 “Ed White”.

“Dot over 90” on the aluminium bezel insert

The star of the show is the radially brushed, blue-grey dial that’s paired with a domed sapphire crystal for a vintage vibe. The dial is inspired by rare vintage Speedmaster models with blue-grey dials, which have been nicknamed “soleil” (which is French for “sun”) after the sun ray-brushed finish.

This dial makes the FOiS unique amongst modern Speedmaster models, which are mostly equipped with plain, black stepped dials, with a few exceptions like the Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial. The charm of the dial lies in its changing appearance that varies with the light. It can seem black in many environments, with the blue-grey finish only coming alive under direct lighting.

The dial can be a brighter blue-grey…

Or black under indirect lighting

The dial is easy to like, though the parchment lume is inevitably controversial. Given the dark shade of the lume, it feels like the watch is trying to look very old. But still I find it aesthetically appropriate, given that the timepiece is a vintage re-issue. Surprisingly, the colour of the lume also complements the grey-blue dial.

In fact, all of the colours are complementary: the blue-grey contrasts with the black bezel, while the faux-vintage lume blends in naturally with the dial.

Although the lume is pretend-vintage, the printed markings for the minutes, seconds, and sub-dials, are in bright white. Despite this, the dial doesn’t look busy despite the different colours.

The dial also incorporates enough vintage elements to please the enthusiast. The applied Omega logo at 12 o’clock is a nice touch, and the stepped dial construction, along with the sunken sub-dials, are thoughtful details. The dial construction also adds depth to the dial, in contrast the first-generation FOiS that felt flat.

The hands are all colour-matched according to function: the “alpha” hands for the time are polished, while the hands for the chronograph lacquered white

The importance of the domed sapphire crystal can’t be understated. The crystal mimics the aesthetics of the hesalite crystal on the vintage original, and helps create a genuinely vintage feel as a result.

If I could change anything about the new FOiS, it would probably be the case back. The design of the case back is faithful to that of the vintage CK 2998, with a double-stepped edge and an embossed seahorse logo.

While the closed case back completes the vintage feel of the watch, I would have liked to be able to see the cal. 3861, which is surprisingly well finished for this price point. Granted, the cal. 3861 is still an industrial movement, but in my view it’s dressed up to a degree that justifies a transparent case back.

The cal. 3861 on show in the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

The FOiS is appropriately delivered with a vintage-inspired flat link bracelet, although various leather straps are an option. I recommend the bracelet. Though not fancy, the bracelet is sturdily constructed and wears comfortably on my 6.6″ wrist.

It has all the practicality of a modern bracelet, but still retains the correct vintage styling. The bracelet design is modelled on the 1960s bracelet of the CK 2998, but clearly modern in construction. The links are substantial and solid, while the clasp is chunky.

A slightly slimmer clasp would have suited the vintage styling better, but the size is partly functional; the micro-adjustment mechanism in the clasp that comes in handy.

Micro adjustment in the clasp

Concluding thoughts

The second-generation Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” is arguably the best vintage remake Omega has produced in the last decade.

The watch faithfully recreates the feel of the vintage “soleil” Speedmaster CK 2998, and the radially brushed blue-grey dial simply pops. But it’s not just about aesthetics: the cal. 3861 is a worthy update to the vintage Moonwatch calibre, although it’s a shame that the solid back hides the movement.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space”
Ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001 (bracelet)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.001 (black leather strap)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.002 (brown leather strap)

Diameter: 39.7 mm
Height: 13.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3861
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$7,900 on steel bracelet; US$7,500 on strap

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

Teased at earlier this year during the Summer Olympics when it was photographed on Daniel Craig’s wrist, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M without a date has finally been officially unveiled. Making its debut in monochromatic colours, the no-frills Seamaster is essentially another take on the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition of 2019.

The Seamaster “no-date” is available with either a black-aluminium dial laser engraved with the model’s customary wave-like pattern, or a vertically brushed steel dial with a silvery PVD coating. Less obvious but more notable for enthusiasts is the domed sapphire crystal that lends a vintage feel. Since Omega announced it will no longer be releasing limited edition watches, the new duo will be part of the permanent collection.

Initial thoughts

The date window has always been a hotly debated topic within watch enthusiast circles, which tend to prefer the purity of a date-less dial. No matter where a date window is placed, there will be critics. In my view, such criticism is sometimes valid. The Seamaster 300M certainly benefits from the facelift, which results in a more aesthetically pleasing dial. The clean dial also suits the functional nature of the model.

Priced at US$6,500 on the mesh bracelet, the new Seamaster is priced right considering the feature, including the in-house cal. 8806, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. Ironically, the new Seamaster is US$600 more expensive than the variant with a date. That said, it is arguably worth the premium despite the diminished functions, since it is more appealing, particularly when paired with the mesh bracelet.

N0-date

The new no-date model retains the familiar style that has defined the Seamaster 300M for decades. Characterised by the signature lyre lugs with large bevels, the stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and 13.8 mm in thickness. And the helium escape valve is placed at the trademark ten o’clock position.

Moving onto the dial, the steel model has a black aluminium dial laser etched with the Seamaster wave pattern. In contrast, the steel and titanium model is outfitted with a vertically brushed steel that that’s unusual for the Seamaster. Both dials are otherwise identical with applied indices, open-worked hour and minute hands, as well as a lollipop central seconds hand, all filled with Super-LumiNova.

The black dial variant is complemented by a matching steel bezel that incorporates a black aluminium insert with printing markings, whereas the steel PVD dial model is equipped with a titanium bezel featuring a textured insert with relief markings.

Visible through the sapphire case back is the in-house, self-winding cal. 8806, which beats at 3.5 Hz and offers 55 hours of power reserve. Amongst its key features are a free-sprung balance with silicon hairspring, as well as a paramagnetic escapement that ensures it’s resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 Gauss.

Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “No-Date”
Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.010 (full steel on bracelet)
Ref. 210.32.42.20.01.003 (full steel on rubber strap)
Ref. 210.30.42.20.06.002 (steel and titanium on bracelet)
Ref. 210.32.42.20.06.002 (steel and titanium on rubber strap)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.8 mm
Material: Steel; steel and titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 8806
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Steel mesh bracelet; black or grey rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques or retailers
Price: US$5,900 on the leather strap; US$6,500 on the bracelet

For more, visit Omegawatches.com.