Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009.

Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case.

Initial Thoughts

While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying.

In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches.

The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s.

The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design

I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph it feels like Grand Seiko has fully realised the initial concept, though the strap could have been better integrated with the case, as with the Royal Oak Concept.

The design is polarising, but clearly differentiates the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph as a sports model, and I welcome a change of direction given that Grand Seiko’s Sport line has become somewhat confused with multiple styles.

Pricing, however, is more questionable. Retailing for US$16,900, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph comes in at a premium of US$2,200 over the Evolution 9 Tentagraph (which also includes a titanium bracelet), which can only partially be justified by the complexity of the case. And while I like the design, I’d also like to see the date dropped, both for aesthetics and to shave some height off the thick case.

Lion’s mane

The case is Brilliant Hard Titanium, Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy that is both whiter and harder than typical grade five titanium. It is as hardy as you would expect of a sports watch, with a screw down crown and 200 m of water resistance. The case is huge by Grand Seiko standards – 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high – but the lug-to-lug span is compact relative to the large case size.

While the mid case appears unchanged over the earlier iteration of the “lion’s mane” at first glance, the sapphire covering is gone from the bezel, which is now octagonal and titanium – meant to look as if carved by a lion’s claws. One of the most striking details are the chronograph buttons, which add to the lion aesthetic and feel oddly satisfying against the fingers.

Grand Seiko designed the sapphire case back with careful consideration to ergonomics. It’s flat and cambered, allowing the watch to hunker down on the wrist. A quartet of hex screws – strategically spaced to accommodate the chronograph buttons – affix the back to the mid case.

For the first time, Grand Seiko has paired the Sport case with a matching rubber strap, continuing the stylised lines of the case around the wrist though the strap is not integrated per se. The brand claims the new strap has 2.7 times the tensile strength as existing Grand Seiko silicone straps. Much more important though is the lion’s paw motif on the back, a cute touch that will help with ventilation.

The single-fold titanium clasp is also more angular than usual for Grand Seiko. The new clasp, however, is not particularly comfortable; it wears a little like the single-fold clasp employed by Swiss brands like Hublot.

A three-dimensional face

The lion’s mane theme continues on the textured brown dial with unevenly sized and spaced horizontal striations that give the pattern a naturalistic feel. Grand Seiko carried over the oversized, well-lumed hands and markers from the Spring Drive Sport models mostly unchanged, though the hour markers are now slightly pointer.

The most noticeable change is in the sub-dials. The location of the registers is different from earlier Sport Collection chronographs, which is a result of the change in movement, but the form of the registers has changed as well. Each bowl-like sub dial is a separate piece applied to the dial, and the redesigned pointers better match the rest of the watch.

Calibre

The Tentagraph cal. 9SC5 is Grand Seiko’s first and only mechanical chronograph movement. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. It’s essentially a cal. 9SA4/9SA5 base movement with a chronograph module that shares the Seiko 8R28 architecture, which is in turn attached to the base calibre with four screws for easy disassembly during servicing.

The movement in profile, showing the base and layers for the chronograph and calendar within the module.

The movement includes the two near-essential selling points of any modern chronograph: a vertical clutch and column wheel. In tactile terms, the movement is satisfying, the buttons have a pleasing snap when depressed.

The hours totaliser advances continuously while the chronograph is running (as is the norm) and unfortunately, so does the minutes totaliser. Most modern chronographs, including the Spring Drive chronographs, use a semi-instantaneous minutes totaliser which moves in discrete jumps and is more legible.

The normally hidden chronograph mechanism. Image – Grand Seiko

And, since the chronograph module includes its own calendar, the cal. 9SC5 also lacks the instant date change found in the 9SA5. This is still preferable to the bottomless chasm of a date window on some modular chronographs that rely on the date mechanism of the base calibre.

While less advanced in technical terms than the Spring Drive chronograph, cal. 9SC5 is significantly better looking with gracefully figured bridges and more refined decoration.

The base movement is also technically adept, with twin barrels and a proprietary escapement optimised for its high beat rate of 5 Hz. A metal overcoil hairspring suspends the free-sprung balance from a dual anchored balance bridge with an endshake adjustment system – traits that bring to mind Rolex movements, which is good company to be in.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph
Ref. SLGC009

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 15.6 mm
Material: Brilliant Hard Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 9SC5
Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Brown rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting August 2025
Price: US$16,900

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.

As the summer holidays begin for many collectors around the world, we take a look at some of the standout summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2025.

While there’s no formal definition for what constitutes a ‘summer watch’, we focused on models that are robustly built and expressive in their designs, colours, and materials. With options ranging from just US$1,850 to over US$400,000, our list will have something for almost everyone.

Under US$5,000

First up on the budget end of the spectrum is the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph, which comes in a variety of colours and materials. Affordably priced thanks to its set-and-forget solar-powered quartz movement, the Solargraph is the spiritual successor to the brand’s iconic Formula One collection, which debuted in 1986. The launch of the Formula One collection was a turning point for the brand, which had recently rebranded as TAG Heuer following TAG Group’s acquisition of then-struggling Heuer.

The Solargraph is available in several colourways, and sits easily on the wrist thanks to its 38 mm size and 9.9 mm thickness. For the case material, buyers can choose between stainless steel, with brushed or DLC-coated black finishes, or colourful plastic known as Polylight.

All models are rated to 100 m of water resistance, as even the plastic-cased models feature an internal stainless steel case and screw-down steel case back. I’m partial to the red version (ref. WBY1161.FT8086) as it doesn’t take itself too seriously and can be seen as a nod to Heuer’s historical connections to Scuderia Ferrari.

The relaunch of the collection in 2025 also makes sense as TAG Heuer recently reclaimed its position as official timekeeper for Formula 1, and became the first-ever title sponsor of the famous Monaco Grand Prix. Furthermore, with global interest in Formula 1 surging in recent years, the value of the F1 brand has never been higher.

A cynic might point out these watches have little to do with racing beyond the marketing, but Heuer’s ties to the culture of motorsport go way back; under Jack Heuer’s leadership, the company became the first watch brand to sponsor an F1 team back in 1971. These kinds of cultural bona fides are vanishingly rare at the Solargraph’s price point of just under US$2,000.

Next up is one of the most surprising watches of 2025, the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. It’s easy to feel jaded about the continued onslaught of integrated bracelet sport watches, but the Loco punches well above its weight, featuring an architectural new calibre and impressive finishing.

The Loco is a big step in the evolution of the Christopher Ward brand, which has been pushing upmarket recently with models like the Bel Canto that defy ‘entry level’ norms for design and complication.

The Loco features a 41 mm stainless steel case and is available on an integrated steel bracelet or a rubber strap. I recommend the rubber, as it’s unusually supple and helps the watch avoid the trap of looking too much like everything else.

The case is fairly thick at 13.7 mm, but this includes the domed sapphire crystal that sits up high above the case, creating space for the dial-side theatrics. The crystal is also worth mentioning in the context of the meager 30 m water resistance rating, which might seem low for a sport watch.

In fact, the watch features a reassuringly solid screw-down crown and the water resistance is limited mainly by the faceted crystal, which wasn’t engineered for the crushing pressure of deeper depths, but is more than sufficient for the pool or beach club.

The thickness is well-justified, since the CW-003 movement is quite unlike anything else at the Loco’s price point of US$4,595. The CW-003 is a manually wound calibre with two massive mainspring barrels visible through the transparent case back, which together provide a six-day power reserve.

Flip the watch over, and the brand’s first-ever free-sprung balance brings life to the dial, which displays the hours and minutes on an off-center sapphire display.  The movement is not only visually striking, with sculpted steel bridges and cocks supporting the major component groups, but the finishing is head-and-shoulders above its microbrand peers.

Rounding out the entry level category, honourable mentions go to the Albishorn Thundergraph and the Laventure Marine Type 3, which tap into the notion of ‘imaginary vintage’ in different and interesting ways. The Thundergraph features a novel monopusher chronograph designed by Sébastien Chaulmontet, and the Marine Type 3 references early quartz marine chronometers for its design, and weighs less than 50 g on its elastic strap thanks in part to its grade 23 titanium case.

Under US$10,000

A step up in price affords access to the Tudor Pelagos Ultra, which is arguably the highest spec dive watch in the brand’s history. Though the title of deepest diving Tudor is still held by the short-lived and little-loved Hydro 1200, the 1,000 m-rated Ultra is powered by a far more advanced in-house MT5612-U movement that carries the Master Chronometer designation. For those who love chunky overbuilt dive watches, the Ultra is an appealing option at US$6,100.

Housed in a fully brushed 43 mm titanium case, the Ultra measures 14.5 mm thick and has the purposeful feel of a precision instrument. This sizing gives the Ultra inherent wrist presence, but the restrained monochromatic design and matte textures keep it from making a spectacle of itself, which tends to be the case with some rivals.

Naturally, it includes all the familiar touches of the Pelagos line: a ceramic bezel, snowflake hands, brushed titanium bracelet, and plenty of lume, including on the adjustable T-fit clasp.

Ceramic is an increasingly popular material in luxury watchmaking thanks to its scratch-resistance and capacity for colour, which makes it easy to look at a watch like the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Lake Tahoe and think the brand is jumping on a fad, but the facts are more nuanced.

IWC was an early pioneer of zirconium oxide watch cases as far back as 1986 when the brand introduced the white ceramic Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3755-05. This lineage gives the brand’s ceramic watches like the Lake Tahoe a degree of historical continuity that latecomers can only dream of.

The Lake Tahoe is light, bright, and delivered on a rubber strap that is ready for anything you might get up to this summer (though the white textile shell might need some cleaning from time to time).

Priced at US$8,500, the Lake Tahoe is a fresh take on the brand’s famous pilot’s watch, managing to thread the needle between fashionable and timeless. If I could change one thing about this watch, it would be the unnecessary Top Gun branding that adorns the solid case back, but I could live with it considering the dial is unblemished.

Inside, the Lake Tahoe shares the same cal. 32112 automatic movement as the pricier Ingenieur, though it must be said the same movement is available for even less from sister brands within the Richemont stable. Still, the 120-hour power reserve is a great feature if your summer plans are anything like mine and involve doing as little as possible.

Under US$20,000

Rolex tends to dominate the conversation at Watches & Wonders, but this year they actually earned it by introducing the Land-Dweller, one of the most over-engineered sport watches ever developed. Truly the watch of the summer, Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour was recently spotted wearing one at Wimbledon. The Land-Dweller is notable for bringing back the Oysterquartz-style integrated bracelet design, but it excels most in ways that aren’t immediately obvious.

The Rolex Land-Dweller, shown here in platinum

The real story is the new silicon Dynapulse escapement that makes its debut in the cal. 7135. The first Rolex movement to tick at 5 Hz, the cal. 7135 benefits from 16 patents, making it quite unlike any other movement in the brand’s collection.

Rolex is a very conservative brand and has dabbled in silicon before on a limited scale, namely the Syloxi hairspring, but the brand is now clearly convinced that this technology is mature and ready for widespread use.

While the US$63,500 platinum model is shown, the white dialed variant in steel can be had for just US$14,900, which I’d say is a stellar value.

What’s more, the polarising design and somewhat awkward Land-Dweller model name narrowed the field of prospective customers, which might make it easier for technically-minded or contrarian collectors to pick one up without too much hassle.

Summer is usually a time for kicking back and having fun, which might explain Grand Seiko’s new ‘Tokyo Lion” edition of the Tentagraph, ref. SLGC009G.

Featuring a massive titanium case with aggressive, angular details, the Tokyo Lion retains the high-beat modular cal. 9SC5 chronograph  movement that made its debut in 2023. The styling of this watch is almost outrageous by the normally restrained standards of Grand Seiko, but in a world of lookalike integrated bracelet watches, the Tokyo Lion is a breath of fresh air.

We have to start with those pushers, which are serrated to mimic a lion’s paws. Like the case, they feature angular forms with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces. Overall, the case measures 43 mm and a whopping 15.6 mm thick, but weighs a manageable 139 g thanks to its titanium construction.

Wearing comfort is enhanced by the soft rubber strap, delivered in a similar shade of brown as the embossed dial. In keeping with the lion theme, the inside of the strap has been stamped with a paw print to aid air circulation. Ventilation channels are common with rubber straps but rarely do makers get so creative with the design.

The Tokyo Lion is the very definition of ‘wrist presence’ but at US$16,900 it doesn’t offer the value proposition that many expect from Grand Seiko. That said, the Tentagraph movement is highly differentiated from its Swiss peers and contains the brand’s proprietary direct impulse escapement that extends the power reserve to 80 hours. It also features a free-sprung balance and an overcoil hairspring, something that’s all but extinct at this end of the market.

Under US$50,000

Hublot is brand that elicits strong emotions, and despite getting occasionally dragged on social media for being overpriced or derivative, the brand has earned many devotees thanks to its bold designs and use of innovative materials like recycled tennis racquets and multi-coloured ceramics.

The new Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic demonstrates the brand’s ongoing leadership in the field of ceramics, which are difficult to produce in vibrant colours. In this case (pun intended) the ceramic cladding has been given a high-gloss finish that resembles high-end automotive paint, differentiating it from ceramic watches from the likes of Audemars Piguet, and the pastel mint green colour helps tone down the overt masculinity of the design.

While Hublot has a reputation for making large watches, the 42 mm Big Bang case hugs the wrist and should be manageable for most, although the folding clasp is not an ideal fit on some wrists.

And those who take the plunge will be rewarded by some of the best chronograph pushers in the industry, which are immensely satisfying in both appearance and operation; even if the design isn’t your cup of tea it’s worth experiencing the smooth texture and crisp break when starting or stopping the chronograph.

Speaking of the HUB1280 Unico movement, most of the major component groups are visible through the open-worked dial, including the column-wheel and anti-backlash gearing for the horizontal clutch, which makes for an engaging visual treat.

That said, there are a couple things I’d change given the retail price of US$24,100. First, I’ve always wished Hublot would use a free-sprung balance in the Unico platform, not least because the brand teased this feature in the original movement prototypes.

Second, the injection-moulded plastic mid-case is a little rough around the edges. These shortcomings aside, the vibrant colour, glossy texture, technical styling, and differentiated movement make the Big Bang Mint Green Ceramic pretty convincing on the wrist.

I vividly remember the first time I put on the Ulysse Nardin Diver Air, and of all the options on this list it would be my go-to holiday watch. Its appeal is rooted in its lightweight case, which weighs just 46 g without its 6-g velcro strap.

There are lighter watches, but none are true divers like the Air. Numbers aside, the watch feels almost weightless, perhaps due to the expectations created by its large visual size, and is effortlessly comfortable on the wrist.

So how did they make a proper dive watch that’s 44 mm by 14.7 mm thick weigh as little as a dozen sheets of A4 paper?

It starts with a titanium case and bezel, which is clad with Nylo, an upcycled polymer-carbon composite material. The ruthless search for weight-savings continues inside to the UN-374 automatic movement that itself weighs just 7 g thanks to its efficiently engineered open-worked design and titanium bridges.

The Air features many appealing details, from the exposed magic lever bi-directional winding system, to the bold notches on the bezel that feel great to the touch. There’s also a fun Easter egg on the case back: instead of the usual “Swiss” designation that’s commonplace, Ulysse Nardin went a step further and engraved the coordinates for their headquarters in Le Locle.

Of course, being a Ulysse Nardin, the Air capitalises on the brand’s expertise in silicon technology; the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel, and pallet lever are crafted from silicon, which helps improve isochronism and reduces the need for lubrication. But while the watch weighs just 52 g all told, it’s not for lightweight budgets, priced at US$38,000. This pricing might be a challenge, since visually the watch has a lot in common with the brand’s own Diver X collection, which is priced lower but lacks the extraordinary wrist feel of the Air.

US$50,000 to $150,000

Someday we will be able to talk about the Cubitus without having to mention the outcry that accompanied the collection’s launch late last year, but we’re not there yet. In short, Patek Philippe’s new square-shaped collection of elegant sport watches proved to be a hit with the brand’s A-list clientele but the 45 mm sizing left some Nautilus fans scratching their heads.

Enter the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G, which debuted at Watches & Wonders in a new 40 mm size that should convert many skeptics. The new Cubitus feels reassuringly dense thanks to its slim white gold case and bracelet, which drapes over the wrist in a way that will feel familiar to those who’ve worn a Nautilus in precious metal.

The Nautilus theme continues on the dial, which features the familiar embossed sunburst finish and lozenge-shaped hand set of its predecessor. But the octagonal bezel, which is basically a square with faceted corners, gives the Cubitus its own identity. The resemblance is probably incidental, but the shape reminds me of Place Vendôme, the location of the Patek Philippe boutique in Paris.

Naturally, the finishing is excellent inside and out. While it’s true that the cal. 26-330 S C is one of Patek Philippe’s more industrial movements and you shouldn’t waste time looking for inward angles, it is genuinely radiant and the major details are finished appropriately. Furthermore, the brand’s industrial prowess pays dividends when it comes to timekeeping, with a best-in-class rating of -1 to +2 seconds per day thanks mainly to its silicon hairspring.

We’ve yet to find the limits of Patek Philippe’s pricing power, and the retail price of about US$80,000 is probably justified given the supply and demand dynamics at this end of the market. Value retention aside, the smaller sizing and luxurious weight give the Cubitus a truly decadent feel on the wrist.

If the faceted form of the Cubitus doesn’t do it for you, the new Honeygold Odysseus from A. Lange & Söhne might.

For those who are new to Lange lore, Honeygold is a proprietary gold alloy that the brand reserves for special editions. As a result, Honeygold watches tend to be sought-after by collectors looking for something unique. Beyond this inherent exclusivity, the composition of Honeygold makes it harder and more scratch-resistant than other gold alloys, making it ideally suited for luxury sport watch like the Odysseus.

Otherwise, the Honeygold edition is similar to the standard time-only Odysseus models, featuring the same embossed dial pattern found on the white gold version that debuted in 2020. In other words, it’s exceptionally well made but slightly awkward in appearance.

Like any Lange, the company puts most of its own efforts into the movement, and lets suppliers deal with the rest, hence the maker’s mark for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH (SUG) engraved on the case back. This means that the L155.1 Datomatic movement gets the brand’s full attention, and it shows.

The movement was adapted from the L086.1 but upgraded with a 4 Hz beat rate and full balance bridge to match the sporty aspirations of the Odysseus collection.

Lange has been aggressive with pricing of late, especially when it comes to the brand’s special edition models like this. In fact, at about US$110,000, the Honeygold Odysseus is one of the first Lange models I’ve seen priced higher than the equivalent Patek Philippe. Sure, it’s finished to a higher standard than its Geneva-built rival and will be made in much smaller numbers, just 100 pieces in fact, but it’s an eye-opening price nonetheless.

For those looking for something a little different with a mild complication, this year saw the launch of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time, which features the brand’s own take on the jump hour complication and comes in a white gold case with intriguing construction. Compared to previous Tambour models that tended to be colourful and exuberant, the Spin Time, for better or worse, is tastefully restrained in its design and colour palette

The Spin Time is available in a few different configurations, but all benefit from the latest automatic movement platform from the group’s top movement supplier, La Fabrique du Temps, hence the ‘LFT’ prefix on the cal. ST13.01. It’s a well-finished movement with a free-sprung balance and a solid gold winding mass, compactly organised into the center of the case to drive the peripheral spinning cubes that indicate each hour.

But for me, the Spin Time really shines thanks to its elaborate white gold case, which is a more streamlined version of the chunky Tambour case used in the past. This means that it feels somewhat familiar, with the brand name written around the bezel, but this and all other details have been slimmed down and refined.

The case is vaguely conical in form, with the widest point sitting close to the wrist. The lugs are fitted separately in order to offer a contrasting finish with the brushed mid-case, and it’s worth appreciating the fine joinery where the lugs attach – it’s a complex fit done expertly well.

Some might balk at the retail price of US$76,000, but objectively speaking the Spin Time offers as much or more than many watches at this price point from establishment brands. This speaks to the fact that while Louis Vuitton is the 800-pound Gorilla of mainstream luxury, many watch collectors view it as more of a startup when it comes to high-end watchmaking.

Unlimited budget

Watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” illustrate the divide between the “haves and the have-yachts” to borrow the title of Evan Osnos’ recent book. Targeted at the intersection of haute horlogerie and contemporary art, the Companion is a collaboration with Brian Donnelly, an American artist who makes work under the name KAWS.

The Companion is literally that – a miniature version of KAWS’ signature character rendered in titanium. The cal. 2979 movement features peripheral hour and minute hands that orbit the companion itself, along with a tourbillon visible at six o’clock. The titanium case is a reasonable 43 mm in diameter, but it suffers from a 17.4 mm thickness and an overly long lug-to-lug length, which makes me think it was designed with professional athletes in mind.

Priced over US$200,000, the Companion is the kind of watch you’re likely to see on the wrists of the brand’s celebrity clients at events like Art Basel Miami. In other words, it’s not for everyone. But the same can be said for KAWS’ artworks, which stoke both love and hate within the art world. This tension is part of what makes this provocative collaboration so interesting.

Greubel Forsey is back in form after a leadership shake-up that saw control revert to back to the brand’s founders. Widely respected for its maximalist approach to construction and finishing, Greubel Forsey recently debuted a new version of the GMT Balancier Convexe that takes the original concept and scales it down to a more wearable size of about 43 mm (depending on where you measure). Arguably the most finely finished sport watch in the industry, the GMT Balancier Convexe is a tour de force of design and craftsmanship.

The big news here is, somewhat ironically, the smaller case, which has been downsized to 42.9 mm at the mid-case. If that still sounds large, keep in mind the GMT features a very short lug-to-lug length and a proprietary strap that helps hug the wrist.

Functionally, the new version is the same as the original and feature a push-button hour jumper for crossing time zones, and even factors in daylight saving time using a two-tiered scale visible through the case back.

Functionality aside, the movement is an absolute visual spectacle, with generous amounts of black polished steel. The bridge supporting the inclined free-sprung balance is the star of the show, featuring rounded arms and perfectly crisp, symmetrical inner angles at each end.

For traditionalists, it doesn’t get any better than this. But watches don’t get much more expensive than this either – at over US$400,000, the GMT is a perfect capstone for our list of summer watches.

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with?

The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can.

In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right.

The SLGB003

Initial thoughts

Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market. 

In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like different things to different people, making it a versatile design.

While I would normally prefer a simpler no-date format, the date window is nicely finished the the font choice on the date wheel, which features tiny serifs, reminds me of vintage Grand Seiko movements. That said, the font choice for “Spring Drive” and “UFA” is painfully bland, and stands out from an otherwise meticulous dial.

At a distance, the dial colour is the only way to distinguish the platinum and titanium models; the platinum SLGB001 offers a deeper shade of blue and a silver-tone seconds hand, while the titanium SLGB003 features a dial in a very light shade of blue that at some angles appears almost white.

In both models, the tip of the seconds hand curves toward the dial, which is the kind of high-effort detail we rarely see in contemporary industrial watchmaking. A pleasing detail on the latter model is the blued steel seconds hand, which I prefer since it makes sense to draw attention to the seconds hand in a watch that is all about to-the-second precision.

And precise it is, rated to +/- 20 seconds per year, an extraordinary claim that goes far beyond COSC and Master Chronometer certifications. This is possible thanks to the new Spring Drive cal. 9RB2, which combines elements from the brand’s famed cal. 9F quartz movement and the latest generation spring drive movements like the cal. 9RA2.

Grand Seiko built its reputation outside its home market on the basis of value, offering watches that were low key, high quality, and priced right. Though many of the brand’s latest 9S-powered watches have tested collectors’ tolerance for price increases, the SLGB003 is a lot of watch for US$10,900.

On the other hand, US$39,000 is rather a lot for its platinum sibling, the SLGB001, but I expect all 80 of them will find willing buyers. 

Wearing the UFA

The 37 mm size might sound small, but the UFA wears big enough to have presence on a bare arm while remaining sleek enough to look at home under a shirt cuff. The case is made of a proprietary alloy known as High-Intensity Titanium, which means the watch is both fairly durable and effortlessly light weight. The thickness is 11.4 mm, which might sound thick for a 37 mm watch but this helps give it presence, while the sleek Evolution 9 case design ensures good weight balance.

And about that bracelet – Grand Seiko has gotten the message about micro-adjustment, which we now see for the first time from the brand. This means that when your wrist expands on a hot day or contracts in the cold you can quickly adjust the length of the bracelet across three small steps to get a comfortable fit.

This is not revolutionary by any means, in fact Grand Seiko is something of a laggard in adopting this convenient feature, but their execution of it is elegant and effective without any additional buttons or pushers. Simply rotate the bracelet relative to the clasp, push in, and slide.

As if that weren’t enough, the UFA is water resistant to 100 m. Of course, I don’t suspect anyone will test these limits, but it’s reassuring to wear an overbuilt watch that can keep up with its owner no matter their lifestyle or climate.

Overall, the UFA offers a level of fit and finish that befits a luxury product, but the design is quiet enough for it to stay under the radar. Like other models in the Evolution 9 collection, the dial markers feature polished grooves that catch almost any light, giving the dial a radiant look.

A new level of precision

Let’s be precise. The cal. 9RB2 is a spring drive movement, which means its rate is governed by a quartz oscillator and an integrated circuit (IC). The IC controls a small electromagnet that regulates the rotational speed of the glide wheel, the last wheel in an otherwise mechanical gear train.

Like other high-end quartz movements from Grand Seiko, the cal. 9RB2 uses a home-grown quartz crystal that has been aged and tested for at least three months to ensure predictable performance. For the UFA, the quartz crystal and IC have also been redesigned and vacuum-sealed to minimise the effects of temperature fluctuations on the rate of the watch. These small changes have resulted in a movement that is accurate to +/- 20 seconds per year, making it an order of magnitude more precise than any mechanical watch.

While the brand has been fairly tight-lipped in its explanations of these improvements, it seems to incorporate the vacuum-sealed oscillator and fine adjustment screw from the quartz cal. 9F along with the latest architecture from the Spring Drive cal. 9RA2. The step up in performance is quite dramatic, roughly six times more precise than the next most accurate spring drive caliber.

That it remains less accurate than the best quartz movements from Grand Seiko and Citizen is quite interesting, but we might never know for sure whether this is due to variations in mainspring torque or the the ability of the electromagnetic brake to perfectly harness the motion of the glide wheel.

The cal. 9RB2 is finished in a style that is consistent with the latest generation spring drive movements, with frosted surfaces and machined anglage. It’s industrial, but it’s clear that attention was paid to its visual presentation. The movement’s three-day power reserve is conveniently reported on the movement side, which Grand Seiko has started doing recently with both its mechanical and spring drive movements.

The UFA designation is also notable, a clear reference to Grand Seiko’s Very Fine Adjusted (VFA) models introduced around 1970. These movements were painstaking adjusted and guaranteed to run within one minute per month. I anticipate that we will see other UFA models in the future, likely positioned as the flagship model in each collection.

Concluding thoughts

The UFA was without question one of the standout novelties from Watches & Wonders 2025. It proves that Grand Seiko has not run out of road in the pursuit of its core principles of precision, beauty, and ease of use, and shows the brand can still deliver good value even with higher pricing.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA
Ref. SLGB003 (titanium)
Ref. SLGB001 (platinum)

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 11.4 mm
Material: Titanium or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: 9RB2
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve on the movement side
Frequency: Spring Drive
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with micro-adjust clasp or alligator with folding clasp

Limited edition: SLGB001 is limited to 80 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting June 2025
Price: US$10,900 (titanium), $39,000 (platinum) excluding taxes

For more, visit Grand-seiko.com.

Correction April 17, 2025: The case material of SLGB003 is High-Intensity Titanium, and not Brilliant Hard Titanium as indicated in an earlier version of the article.

Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model.

Initial thoughts

The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko — serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph — the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design.

Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko.

The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker.

Nature inspired once again

As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007 dial is meant to evoke Mount Iwate, a peak near Grand Seiko’s workshop. It has a fine, radial pattern in a blue-grey finish that pairs well with the slightly glossy sub-dials.

Beyond this aesthetic update, the watch remains identical to the earlier model, featuring a 43.2 mm titanium case that houses the in-house cal. 9SC5. Operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), the movement offers a robust 72-hour power reserve.

The chronograph employs a column wheel and vertical clutch, which are essentially the norm for modern chronograph movements, but it is a modular mechanism that is added on top of the base movement. The base calibre, however, is Grand Seiko’s newest and greatest mechanical movement and incorporates all of the brand’s recent innovations.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph
Ref. SLGC007

Diameter: 43.2 mm
Height: 15.3 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9SC5
Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting May 2025
Price: US$14,700

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko.

This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design.

Initial thoughts

While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal.

The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original.

At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement.

Ten beats per second

While the Tokyo Lion case design has been employed before, the Tentagraph edition takes the styling even further. The case seems to have more facets and edges than prior Tokyo Lion models; even the pushers are modelled on a lion’s claws. It’s entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, one of Grand Seiko’s own alloys that is harder than conventional titanium, allowing it to take on a brighter finish, especially on its polished surfaces.

Like the case, the dial is inspired by a lion, with its texture supposed to bring to mind a lion’s mane. Interestingly, the registers are all bowl-shaped, which gives the dial a greater sense of depth.

And in a first for Grand Seiko that typically relies either on a bracelet or leather strap, the new Tentagraph is fitted to a moulded rubber strap – with an embossed lion’s paw motif on its underside – and an angular titanium folding clasp that echoes the case design.

Visible through the open back is the Tentagraph cal. 9SC5, which layers a chronograph module over the cal. 9SA5 base movement. Operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), the movement counts ten beats per second, hence the Tentagraph moniker. Like other latest-generation Grand Seiko movements, the cal. 9SC5 is dressed up with striping, bevelled edges, and chamfered countersinks.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph
Ref. SLGC009

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 15.6 mm
Material: Brilliant Hard Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 9SC5
Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Brown rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting August 2025
Price: US$16,400

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.

Grand Seiko announced in September last year a vintage remake inspired by the 45GS of 1968, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation, which was launched as the SLGW005 in steel and the SLGW004 in yellow gold.

In contrast to the many recent Grand Seiko releases with modern styling, the 45SG Re-creation is refreshing in being a revival of an iconic design, right down to the double-signed dial. Yet, the model also sports the brand’s latest generation manual-wind movement, the 9SA4. As the more accessible model of the two – retail is a little under US$10,000 – the steel SLGW005 deserves a closer look to understand how it smartly melds old and new.

Initial thoughts

Aesthetically, the SLGW005 stands out as a distinctively vintage design, from the case and dial to the buckle. This is all the more so since it is the first release since Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017, when all models eliminated “Seiko” in favour of only “Grand Seiko”, to feature the brand’s historical double-signed “Seiko” and “GS” dial. I am personally fond of this detail, as the double logo balances the dial aesthetically. But preferences aside, the external components are indeed excellent, from the dial work down to the faceted case.

Despite the traditional exterior, the internals are modern – almost paradoxically so. Sporting the brand’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, the 9SA4 inside is entirely different than the 1960s cal. 4520 found in the 45GS. On paper, it is a high-spec manual wind movement with intrinsically great features such as a freesprung balance wheel with an overcoil hairspring. However, I personally have a slight reservation of the use of such a modern movement here, which feels slightly disconnected from the spirit of a vintage remake.

That said, a movement alone does not make a watch, and the SLGW005 is greater than the sum of its parts. It is an attractive package for those who enjoy the traditional boxy design, but wanting the amenities of a modern movement. Priced at US$9,700 – that’s US$1,000 less than the titanium SLGW003 using the same movement – the steel SLGW005 is good value as a standout release within Grand Seiko’s recent catalogue.

Faceted case

At a glance, the SLGW005 appears superficially identical to the vintage 45GS, but scaled up to 38.8 mm compared to the 36.5 mm original. On paper, the increased diameter appeals to modern tastes, with most dress watches falling within this size. However, the SLGW005 wears smaller than the measurements suggest. This is mainly due to the distinct case design and how it frames the relatively small dial.

Wide, mirror-polished flanks run across the sides of the case which meets the brushed, flat facets between the lugs. Looking straight at the dial, the widest edges of these case flanks protrude slightly outward of a relatively small bezel, which in turn frames a boxed sapphire crystal

Cumulatively, the proportions make the dial appear smaller than it is, creating a relatively compact appearance for a 38.8 mm wide case. And thanks to the tapered construction, the overall height of 10.4 mm also feels relatively slim, as the case sits low on the wrist with the protruding boxed sapphire crystal.

The case is of a tripartite construction – the bezel, case middle and case back being separate parts. This allows the exterior facets of the case to be Zaratsu-polished, which involves using a Sallaz lapping machine to flat-polish the surfaces for a distortion-free mirror polish.

Naturally, this is an ideal application for the wide facets of the case. One nitpick however, is that I wished the edges where the facets meet could be distinctly sharper as they are very slightly rounded, which softens the overall angular appearance.

However, this also increases the overall durability of the edges from daily wear, such as when cleaning the case from smudges. Furthermore, the slight rounding is also deliberate consistent in width throughout the entire length of the edges, which demands skilled casework finish to obtain a neat apperance.

And of course, while identical in design across other Grand Seiko models, the crown is well done with a fine polished relief logo against a grained surface.

Of worthy mention is the tang buckle, with is paired by default on the alligator strap. While it is of a simple stamped steel construction, the buckle has an attractive Seiko logo embossed in relief over a stamped, dimpled surface. This finish presents a level of tangible detail that feels reminiscent of artisanal, higher-end watchmaking where the dimples are individually hammered.

Albeit slightly dated in appearance, the buckle is essentially a replica of the vintage buckle of the vintage 45GS, revealing the attention to detail in recreating the feel of the original.

Dial tribute

In my opinion, the dial is the standout feature of the SLGW005, as a faithful nod to the 45GS. While the dial elements and quality are nothing new to Grand Seiko, the aesthetic balance is highly attractive.

Most notably, the double-signed applied “Seiko” at 12 o’clock and “Grand Seiko” at six o’clock is reminiscent of models released before Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017. In my opinion, this harmoniously balances the space around the dial, especially for a simple three-hand watch.

The applied Seiko logo creates tangible depth to the dial

Also worth mentioning is the lighting bolt logo at the bottom of the dial. It represents watches produced by Daini Seikosha, a rival to Suwa Seikosha. Both companies were independent but related in being part of the Hattori group of companies, which are now Seiko. Daini Seikosha released its first Grand Seiko, the 44GS in 1967, which served as the predecessor of the 45GS released a year later.

The 45GS was also distinctive being a high-beat watch at 36,000 beats per hour, a feature proudly proclaimed above the lightning bolt logo. This detail is also replicated on the SLGW005, which appropriately employs a modern movement that beats at the same rate.

The applied GS logo above the Hi-Beat and lighting bolt logo

The rest of the dial furnishing is typical Grand Seiko quality, which is to say excellent. The applied baton indices are cleanly diamond-cut with picture-perfect reflective facets that easily reflects light for great legibility. The traditional hands, while stamped, also has wide facets along both long edges to create a substantial appearance.

Modern high-beat

While most vintage remakes by Grand Seiko have a closed case back, the SLGW005 has a transparent display back to proudly show the modern movement within – the 9SA4. Equipped with modern features far improved over its predecessor, the 9SA4 takes the place of the cal. 4520 of the vintage 45GS.

The 9SA4 is derived from the 9SA5 – Grand Seiko’s high-end automatic movement first introduced in 2020 inside the SLGH002. The 9SA5 was then reworked to create the 9SA4 by removing the automatic winding rotor, shrinking down the thickness to just 4.15 mm with a power reserve indicator and reworked aesthetic design.

The 9SA4 made its debut in the “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003, with the SLGW004 and SLGW005 being the second release to feature this movement.

The most unique aspect of the 9SA4 is the proprietary escapement. Dubbed the Dual Impulse Escapement, it is a 5 Hz high-beat hybrid design whereby half the swing of the balance wheel uses the conventional Swiss lever escapement design, while the other half of the swing uses a direct impulse design.

The direct impulse design in short transmit forces from the escape wheel directly tangential to the balance wheel, akin to the well-known George Daniel’s Coaxial escapement.

The balance wheel with an overcoil for the hairspring, which is impressive for this price point

The Grand Seiko Dual Impulse escapement in the 9SAX family

Interestingly, this means that the balance wheel mechanically experiences an asymmetrical swing, thus care must be taken to adjust the balance so that it beats symmetrically (i.e. accounting for beat error).

Arguably however, the standout feature of the 9SA4 is the overall design and user experience as a manually-wound watch. Most notably, the 9SA4 has an exceptionally tactile winding click, which its significance is better understood by exploring the self-winding 9SA5 first.

The winding click is shaped after a wagtail bird, symbolic of Morioka city near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi factory

Automatic movements such as the 9SA5 have a finely graduated click by necessity. This allows the small oscillations of the automatic rotor to progressively wind the mainspring barrel in small doses. Inevitably by design however, this also means that all automatic movements have a winding feel that is tied to this fine graduation click, which feels nothing like a manual wind movement.

By removing the automatic rotor, the 9SA4 is transforming into a manual-wind movement and equipped instead with an especially tactile winding click, visibly seen ratcheting over the ratchet wheel when winding. The widely-spaced teeth of the ratchet wheel and click versus the fine graduation of an automatic click provides the strong tactility that manual-wind movement purists enjoy.

Also, unlike automatic movements, manual wind movements have a distinct recoil when winding the crown. In manual wind watches, the click is often located in a slot which requires the crown to be turned a certain amount, before the click starts ratcheting and the mainspring barrel is wound. This acts as a protection mechanism to prevent the mainspring being overwound when full.

Observe the bird-shaped click initially travelling upwards along a slot before the ratchet wheel slips, winding the mainspring barrel

This is worth mentioning, because the 9SA4 has an exceptionally long recoil which feels deliberate. This means that the crown requires a huge turn, before the ratchet slips and the barrel is wound. This is a design decision that may be a polarising – on one hand, it gives a tactile, manual wind experience that allows the owner to connect to the watch, but on the other it means that winding the movement is little more tedious compared to other movements with a shorter recoil.

That said, the 80 hour power reserve means the watch only needs to be wound every three days in practice. And conveniently, an attractive power reserve display is located on the movement itself, allowing the user to appreciate the aesthetics of the movement while winding.

While the movement is aesthetically pleasing, one criticism of the movement is the timekeeping performance. Despite being a modern high-end movement with a proprietary escapement, the accuracy could be better.

Grand Seiko specifies a mean daily rate of -3/+5 seconds per day, but up to -1/+8 seconds per day under “normal usage accuracy”. Anecdotally, my personal example tends towards running faster, between +5/+8 seconds per day. That said, it is always more practical to have a watch regulated to run faster than slower; this is often the norm at many brands.

Last but not least, the overall finishing is good, within at this relatively affordable price point. The movement bridges are bevelled by machine, but are neat and even in width. Notably, the power reserve indicator is a radially-brushed recess withing the main movement bridge, which helps break visual monotony. And the large, expansive bridges of the movement are finished with striping similar to Côtes de Genève of Swiss movements.

In fact, the latter deserves a short commentary – It feels that the 9SA4 and 9SA5 are aesthetically styled as a Swiss movement, unlike previous Grand Seiko calibres. One can infer that Grand Seiko is trying to appeal to the broader international market with a universally attractive look, but this means that the new movements loses the unique identity of the previous Grand Seiko calibres.

On the flipside, this makes it easier to compare the 9SA4 to similarly priced Swiss movements such as those by Jaeger-LeCoultre, with tangibly similar quality movement finishing, but costing slightly less than their Swiss counterparts considering the high-end movement features of the 9SA4.

Observe the machining marks of the bevels, which are cleanly done. And the rubies sitting in polished countersinks reflect light for a jewel-like sparkle.

Concluding thoughts

The vintage 45GS was one of the earliest Grand Seiko models with a high-beat movement, a feature that’s now key to flagship Grand Seiko models, so the SLGW005 has big shoes to fill. Fortunately, the SLGW005 lives up to most expectations; it’s an intrinsically attractive proposition.

It is a vintage reissue, but one that is unlike any recent Grand Seiko release. Moreover, the SLGW005 is especially appealing to anyone looking for a brand-new Grand Seiko with a modern movement, but still retaining the traditional aesthetic with details such as the double-signed dial.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Re-Creation of the 45GS Limited Edition
Ref. SLGW004 (yellow gold)
Ref. SLGW005 (stainless steel)

Diameter: 38.8 mm
Height: 10.4 mm
Material: Stainless steel or yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: 9SA4 
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Crocodile strap

Limited edition: 200 pieces for SLGW004 and 1,200 pieces for SLGW005
Availability: Now at Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$30,000 for SLGW004 and US$9,700 for SLGW005

For more, visit grand-seiko.com

Grand Seiko’s latest offering is unusual – it’s a 30 mm self-winding model specifically conceived for ladies, in contrast to the vast majority of the Grand Seiko catalogue that’s made up of men’s or mid-sized watches. The Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30 mm measures just 10.5 mm thick, making it the brand’s slimmest mechanical model to date. Notably, the new 62GS pair, STGK031 and STGK033, are the first to adopt a case design found on men’s watches, refining it for a smaller format as a ladies model.

Initial thoughts

In my view, the 62GS case stands out as the most appealing configuration in Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. While it retains a distinctly Japanese design heritage, it remains one of the few Grand Seiko models that blends vintage and modern styles. As an owner of the 40 mm 62GS, I can personally attest to its versatility on the wrist, largely due to its slim case profile.

The new 62GS 30 mm is essentially a scaled down version of the 40 mm model. It stands out for being the first ladies’ models that adapt a design of a men’s watch. In contrast, earlier Grand Seiko ladies watches had a cushion-shaped case that is arguably less appealing since it doesn’t have a distinctive Grand Seiko style.

While Grand Seiko’s continued emphasis on nature-inspired dials may feel somewhat overused, the 62GS 30 mm is priced similar to its men’s counterpart and still represents good value.

62GS

The Grand Seiko catalogue does include mid-sized watches that cater to females, but the 62GS 30 mm is amongst the few ladies-specific models. The new model debuts in two variants. One is pink dial, inspired by “sakura-kakushi,” evokes an early spring scene in northern Japan where cherry blossoms lie hidden under snow. Meanwhile, the grey dial pays homage to “sakura-tsukiyo,” reflecting the beauty of cherry blossoms illuminated by moonlight in early spring. Both dials share the familiar Grand Seiko design, with sword-shaped hands and multi-faceted hour markers.

The 62GS case measures 30 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 100 m, it is crafted from stainless steel finished with “Zaratsu” flat polishing in the typical Grand Seiko style.

Beneath the exhibition case back is the cal. 9S27, measuring just 20 mm in diameter and 4.49 mm in thickness. Launched in 2019, it’s the smallest and thinnest automatic Grand Seiko model. But the calibre still has the features found in bigger movements, including escapement parts made via MEMS to minimise weight and inertia. Operating at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz), the movement has a 50-hour power reserve.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30mm
Ref. STGK031 (pink dial)
Ref. STGK033 (grey dial)

Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 10.5 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9S27
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Matching steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$6,400

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko’s latest release, the Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 SLGH027 Limited Edition, is all about the textured dial as is typical of the brand. Inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano that’s near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the radial dial motif is more deeply textured than earlier iterations of the “Mount Iwate” pattern.

The rest of the watch is typical of the Evolution 9 “SLGH” model – a high-frequency automatic movement inside a Zaratsu-finish case in from Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary alloy with superior corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than conventional steel.

Initial thoughts

Of the many Grand Seiko dials, the new Mount Iwate motif stands out. While the latest dial shares the same radial style as the earlier “Mount Iwate” pattern, found on the Tentagraph SLGC001 amongst others, the dial of the SLGH027 has a deeper texture and more pronounced grooves, giving it an elevated aesthetic that is more striking.

With so many variants, Grand Seiko’s textured dials are a little cliche at this point, but there is no denying that the watches are still impressively crafted and offer strong value, rivalling the strongest Swiss competition (except in terms of the bracelet). At US$10,500, the SLGH027 is priced similarly to equivalent prior models. While it is substantially more expensive than the average time-and-date Grand Seiko, the price is justified by the top-of-the-line cal. 9SA5, as well as the excellent case and dial work.

Mount Iwate

The watch’s most striking feature is the sky-blue dial with a radial pattern inspired by Mount Iwate, a 20-minute drive from Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, which is meant to evoke a bird’s eye view of the mountaintop surrounded by water. The dial furniture is identical to the SLGH models, including sword-shaped hands and fluted baton indices.

Powering the SLGH027 is the self-winding cal. 9SA5, a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 vibrations per hour but with a long, 80-hour power reserve thanks to twin barrels.

One of Grand Seiko’s latest generation movements, the cal. 9SA5 features the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. And like most newer calibres, it is visible through an open case back.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Limited Edition
Ref. SLGH027

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.7 mm
Material: Ever-Brilliant Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: 9SA5
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Matching steel bracelet

Limited edition: 1,200 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting May 2025
Price: US$10,500

For more, visit grand-seiko.com

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected.

Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000.

Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph — David Ichim

A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” — drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes.

The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique. 

Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator.

In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 7750, allowing it to be thinner while requiring assembly by hand. This reflects the technical talent of Albishorn founder Sébastien Chaulmontet, who was head of innovation at La Joux-Perret and then Sellita.

At a bit over US$4,000, the Type 10 is an appealing proposition. 

Grand Seiko 45GS Re-creation SLGW005 – Brandon Moore

The launch of the manually wound, high-beat cal. 9SA4 was one of the highlights of Watches & Wonders for me, and I immediately liked the watch in which it debuted, the “Birch Bark” SLGW003. And I still like that watch, just not as much as I like the vintage-inspired SLGW005 that debuted a few months later, which in my view is one of the most compelling vintage remakes on the market from any brand. And it’s priced a little under US$10,000, which is good value considering the movement.

The SLGW005 is appealing because it delivers on the promise of the original 45GS from 1968, which also contained a manually wound, high-beat movement that ticked at 5 Hz. While Grand Seiko has made 5 Hz movements for years, the cal. 9SA4 is a step up sophistication and performance, featuring an overcoil hairspring, a free-sprung balance, and a proprietary escapement that helps boost the power reserve to 80 hours, in conjunction with twin mainspring barrels.

Among the many mechanical movements produced by Grand Seiko today, the cal. 9SA4 is, in my view, the one that best embodies the spirit of innovation that led Grand Seiko to success in the 1960s and 1970s.

The cal. 9SA4, seen here in the SLGW003

In the SLGW005, that excellent, modern movement is combined with a faithful vintage remake. The vintage elements are nicely done, particularly the font choice for “HI-BEAT” and “36000”, which look a lot better than the painfully plain font choice used for the equivalent markings on the SLGW003. Even the Daini Seikosha lightning bolt symbol is present, lending the watch an extra bit of historical flair.

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II – SJX

Louis Erard has been rolling out collaborations with independent watchmakers for a long time now, so there are many of them on the market. The second edition of the Vianney Halter regulator, however, stands out as the best collaboration to date.

Not only does it capture the look and feel of the Antiqua perpetual calendar at a modest price, but it is also unique amongst Louis Erard’s collaborations. While most of its past collabs employed the stock case and movement, with only a dial swap, the Vianney Halter II has a case, bezel, back, crown, and dial that are unique – all for a little under US$5,000, or about 10% more than past collaborations.

The detail on the bezel, crown, and dial are impressive for the price, especially in how they manage to replicate the look of the Antiqua. The bezel has gold-plated rivets, while the applied chapter rings on the dial have mirrored edges.

Like all Louis Erard regulator models, this suffers from a large and thick case due to the movement, but it is forgivable given the price.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT – Brandon Moore

It’s easy to understand the appeal of the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. The design is popular, the compact case fits most wrists well, and the movement is among the best in its class in terms of both its performance and its functionality, offering an independently adjustable hour hand for easy adjustments when crossing time zones.

Furthermore, it benefits from Tudor’s relationship to its parent company, Rolex, enabling it to lean in to the vintage GMT-Master aesthetic without coming off as a copy. It’s a difficult balancing act to pull off, but it works. And if that weren’t enough, the price is right, with the version on the bracelet priced at US$4,600, which arguably makes the BB58 GMT the best value amongst dual-time watches in this price segment.

Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” – Jason Lee

The Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) offers a range of features that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a vintage-inspired “soleil” dial and the latest-generation Moonwatch cal. 3861.

While it does share the design of the original FOiS, and of course it’s a remake of the vintage CK 2998, the latest FOiS is an entirely distinct watch that’s arguably the ideal fusion of classic and contemporary.

Unfortunately, the FOiS also features prominently pronounced faux-vintage lume, which is inevitably controversial. However, it harmonises well with the dial’s blue-grey colour.

Lume aside, the FOiS excels in most tangible aspects, which makes its US$7,900 retail price on a bracelet (and a bit less on a strap) a good value proportion.

Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff.

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique.

At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic.

The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition.

In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The brand executes well – the quality of build is high – while possessing both a strong competency in dial-making and an affinity for producing anniversary editions.

Unsurprisingly Grand Seiko has produced numerous limited editions over the past few years, with many, like the SBGC275, distinguished from regular production models primarily by the special dial treatment. So as good as the SBGC275 is, it feels somewhat formulaic.

Priced at US$13,400, the SBGC275 offers a reasonable value given its striking looks, unique technical competency, and fit and finish. Spring Drive watches are a category unto themselves, making it difficult to define a competitive set, but compared to most other large chronographs from the likes of Hublot and Zenith, the SBGC275 offers an elevated level of quality and precision for similar money.

A very special dial

The effect is made possible by a patented dial coating process that involves several layers of nanoscale film to create a highly engaging look that is constantly changing. The colour-changing effect was the goal from the beginning, taking inspiration from the ephemeral way the morning sun hits the Hotaka mountains near the manufacture.

On the wrist, the dial is clear, vibrant, and engaging, with a mix of contrasting finishes and snailing on the chronograph registers. The hands and dial markers are faceted and generously lumed, including the GMT hand. Even the 24 hour scale underneath the sapphire crystal bezel is lumed, glowing in a shade of blue that contrasts nicely with the green lume used for the hands and dial.

More than just a pretty face

But the dial is not the only thing that distinguishes the SBGC275 from its mainstream stablemates. The watch is powered by the cal. 9R96 which is more finely adjusted than the standard cal. 9R86 found in similar watches like the SBGC253.

Specifically, the upgraded movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per month compared to the cal. 9R86’s rating of +/- 15 seconds per month. On paper, this is a substantial upgrade, but anecdotal evidence suggests the standard version runs more accurately than its stated rating, meaning it may be hard to tell the difference in real-world use.

The movement features a GMT function in addition to a column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours.

Angular lines

Grand Seiko’s distinctive “grammar of design” has long favoured angular forms and contrasting surface finishes over sensual curves, and the SBGC275 is emblematic of this formula, offering a veritable cornucopia of faceted edges. Though the dial and bezel are round, the case is nearly rectangular, evoking the brands quirky watches from the 1960s and 1970s.

But my favourite design element on the case is actually the set of mushroom-style chronograph pushers, which are finely detailed. The pusher tubes, for example, are brushed and beveled, and the faces of the pushers are decorated with concentric circles. The pushers not only look good, but they feel good in operation as well.

The matching bracelet helps ensure a comfortable fit, thanks to a toolless micro-adjustment mechanism integrated into the clasp. While this system is somewhat bulky compared to other solutions on the market, it’s hardly noticeable on the wrist because the watch itself has so much presence.

That said, if there’s one area that could be improved, it is the bracelet, which is not as nicely executed as the case, dial, and movement. For example, the plugged ends of the holes in each link are clearly visible, whereas rivals like Rolex and Omega fully conceal these elements. This is a weakness common across the Grand Seiko catalogue, although insiders have revealed that Grand Seiko is working on improving it.

Concluding thoughts

While destined to be a niche product due to its imposing size and 700-piece limitation, the SBGC275 is nonetheless an exciting and visually dynamic watch that offers a great deal of technical interest thanks to its finely adjusted Spring Drive movement.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SBGC275

Diameter: 44.5 mm
Height: 16.8 mm
Material: “High-intensity titanium”
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: 9R96
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT function, power reserve indicator, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: NA (Spring Drive)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 700 pieces
Availability: Now at Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$13,400; or 18,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit grand-seiko.com