One of the year’s best summer watches, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic is a fresh interpretation of the brand’s signature collection. Housed in a 42 mm case clad in candy-like, mint green ceramic, the Big Bang Unico features Hublot’s top-of-the-line HUB1280 flyback chronograph movement with an unusual, dial-side integrated construction.

While technically identical to other ceramic Big Bang watches, the new mint green colour is unusually fun and approachable. This new edition of the Big Bang joins the permanent collection, and extends the brand’s industry-leading range of coloured ceramic watches.

Initial thoughts

Hublot is a brand that tends to elicit visceral polarisation among collectors, and it’s easy to see why. The bold designs are seen as outrageous by some, and the pricing puts them out of reach for those focused on maximising their horological dollar.

But Hublot has outgrown its early reputation as a Royal Oak imitator and found its own identity, in part through its leadership in ceramics and willingness to experiment with design and colour. In this case, the mint green colour looks great, and considering the glossy finish, it looks almost like candy. This gives the watch a friendly countenance that results in an amusing tension with the overtly masculine, technical structure of the case and design of the dial, with its stencil-like hour markers.

The Big Bang collection is all about its signature architectural case, and the mint green edition is no exception. As such things go it’s a reasonable size at 42 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm thick; it’s a watch for short sleeves and isn’t intended to slip easily under a shirt cuff. That said, the Big Bang wears well for its size thanks to its lug-less design and supple rubber strap. It’s worth noting, however, that the type of single-fold clasp used by Hublot doesn’t fit all wrists well.

The multi-part case construction features a central core of mint green polymer, to which the glossy ceramic bezel, case back, and lug cladding are attached. The use of injection-moulded plastic for the mid-case is disappointing at this price point, but it’s likely functional since it probably absorbs tension that would otherwise threaten the brittle ceramic components.

The Big Bang is powered by Hublot’s second-generation Unico flyback chronograph platform, the HUB1280, which is integrated, but with the chronograph works on the dial side. Introduced in 2018, the HUB1280 is uniquely suited to the open-worked design of the Big Bang, featuring a column wheel and horizontal clutch positioned on the dial-side of the movement.

Aesthetically and technically coherent with the overall design of the watch, the HUB1280 is noteworthy for the exceptional feel of the chronograph pushers, which manage to feel both secure and effortless during operation. Otherwise, the specifications are pretty similar to those of other leading automatic chronograph movements with a sporty 4 Hz rate and convenient 72-hour power reserve.

Hublot does not have a great reputation when it comes to value-for-money, but this is mainly because the comparative set often includes brands with more traditional styling like Panerai and IWC that offer a similar level of watchmaking at a lower price point. For example, the Big Bang mint green ceramic retails for US$24,100, which is about US$10,000 more than the IWC “Top Gun” Miramar chronograph in pale blue ceramic, which is a very similar watch on paper.

But the wearing experience is vastly different, and Big Bang buyers are more likely to be cross-shopping with far more expensive and expressive designs; next to an RM011, the Big Bang is a bargain summer watch.

Mint cladding

The new Big Bang in mint green ceramic is a testament to the power of colour. Light, delicate colours like mint green are difficult to render in ceramic, due to the way the coloured pigments behave at the high temperatures required to manufacture the components.

Hublot has managed to overcome these challenges in the past and produced ceramic watches in pale blue, bright orange, and fire engine red. In this case, the pleasing pastel green colour and deep, glossy finish help tone down the intensity inherent to the design of the Big Bang.

It’s worth dwelling for a moment on the rich glossy texture of the ceramic, which looks like a high-end automotive coating. At arm’s length, this texture gives the Big Bang a look quite unlike anything else.

The case is built up from several components, but features a mid-case made from injection-moulded plastic. The tell-tale signs of this technique are the flash lines visible near the ‘wings’ on either side of the case.

It’s not ideal, but I’d speculate the slight elasticity of the plastic is what enables the bezel and case back to be made from ceramic, since most ceramic watches have metal case backs screwed to a metal case core to avoid cracking. If that’s indeed the case, no pun intended, it’s a worthwhile trade-off given the overall effect.

The plastic mid-case reveals flash lines from the injection-moulding process, but the titanium crown and pushers are spectacular.

In addition to the bezel and case back, the Big Bang features ceramic cladding on its lugs, which are angled to flow over the curve of the wrist and feature a spring-loaded button to release the strap for quick changes.

This is one of my favourite stylistic elements of the Big Bang design, and it works well – the quick release button has to be depressed quite far to release the strap making it unlikely to happen unintentionally.

And while the Big Bang doesn’t have much of a dial, the 60-minute counter for the chronograph and other dial elements are rendered in a matching hue, with the open-worked hands given a highly textural painted finish that contrasts with the glossy texture of the case.

The logo is printed in the underside of the crystal, which accentuates the three-dimensional feel of the dial. Visual tricks like this can come off as gimmicky when applied to more traditional designs, but are well-suited to a watch like the Big Bang.

The unique Unico

Spend any time with a Hublot Big Bang, and you’ll likely come away impressed by the feel of the chronograph pushers. This has always been a strength of the Unico platform, both in the original HUB1242 which entered service in 2010, and the second generation HUB1280 which debuted in 2018.

The pushers themselves are substantial and lavishly sculpted, grooved like piston heads and faceted at the ends. A gentle push is enough to trip the chronograph levers, which break crisply.

Built in-house at the brand’s manufacture in suburban Geneva, the HUB1280 relies on an integrated, dual horizontal clutch design, which has been organised to reveal the column wheel and chronograph wheels under the transparent dial. This departs from conventional where the chronograph mechanism is usually integrated on the back, perhaps reflecting the modular approach taken by the first-generation HUB1242.

One of the notable features visible near seven o’clock is a wheel comprised of spring-loaded teeth, which is the chronograph coupling wheel. This design reduces backlash and helps mitigate the momentary jitter of the seconds hand that often occurs when starting a chronograph with a horizontal clutch design. Hublot hasn’t shared many details about this, but it is almost certainly fabricated via LIGA; Rolex uses a similar design in the cal. 4131 that powers the Daytona.

The primary component groups for the chronograph, including the spring-loaded chronograph coupling wheel and branded column wheel, are visible on the dial side.

The Unico platform evolved pretty substantially between first and second generations. Not only does the HUB1280 now offer flyback functionality, but the entire movement was slimmed down from about 8 mm to just 6.75 mm; it’s now just a hair thicker than the segment-leading Rolex cal. 4131.

Watches like the Big Bang are not really intended to be showcases for hand finishing, so the HUB1280 is finished in an appropriately minimalist, industrial manner. That said, the style and degree of finishing are a fit for the overall design and it looks good. The plates are bridges are treated with a matte grey texture that contrasts with the polished steelwork of the column wheel and screw heads.

The movement also features an escape wheel and pallet in silicon, reducing friction and prolonging the power reserve. This also makes the movement less susceptible to the deterioration of lubricant over time, which in theory should help extend service intervals.

All else being equal, I tend to prefer the romance of traditional materials for mechanical watches, but I think the use of silicon is the right choice for the HUB1280 since it’s coherent with the brand’s philosophy of material experimentation and is objectively superior in terms of function.

If I could change one thing about the movement, it would be the method of regulation. Equipped with an Etachron curb-pin regulator and a micrometric screw for fine adjustment, the HUB1280 could be improved with a free-sprung balance.

I know I complain about regulators a lot, but when the Unico prototype was first unveiled in 2009, the renderings clearly showed a free-sprung variable inertia balance with a full balance bridge. This feature never made it to production, which is unfortunate because it’s the only thing missing from an otherwise excellent industrial chronograph movement.

Closing thoughts

I appreciate the direction Hublot is taking with its coloured ceramics and this new mint green livery transforms the aggressive Big Bang design into something fun and easy going. All of the elements of the design are cohesive, and there’s an undeniable consistency in approach to the construction of both the case and the movement. It’s not for every budget and it’s a little rough around the edges, quite literally, but the tactile feel of the watch, from the feel of the ceramic to the break of the pushers, is seductive.

Key facts and price

Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic
Ref. 441.GS.5221.RX

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Ceramic and polymer
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. HUB1280
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Mint green rubber strap with titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Hublot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$24,100 excluding taxes

For more, visit hublot.com

A year after being tapped to head the LVMH Watch Division, Frédéric Arnault has been named the next chief executive of Loro Piana. Mr Arnault will assume the top job at the Italian maker of clothing and shoes in June 2025. Loro Piana is synonymous with “quiet luxury” for its emphasis on materials, restrained colours, and discreet branding, but it has become successful enough that the Loro Piana look is ironically recognisable while its trademark Summer Walk boat shoes have become footwear’s equivalent of the steel Rolex Daytona.

Though only 18 months long, Mr Arnault’s leadership of the French group’s watch brands saw a management renewal across all its three brands, namely TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith, as well as the announcement of a group-wide strategy for movement industrialisation and production. The period has also been a challenging one for the watch industry, with a sustained pullback in demand for watches that peaked during the pandemic.

According to insiders, Mr Arnault also played a leading role in sealing the decade-long sponsorship deal with Formula 1. His ascension to the top job at Loro Piana part of succession planning at LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group.

Mr Arnault’s successor at the watch division has yet to be announced, but his predecessor at Loro Piana, Damien Bertrand, will move onto the deputy chief executive job at Louis Vuitton.

Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles.

Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added.

Initial thoughts

For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone.

I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel.

Magic Ceramic

Apart from the bezel, the new edition is identical to the standard Big Bang Unico, retaining the familiar 42 mm by 14.5 mm case with a multi-part, multi-material construction. Under the spotty ceramic bezel is a black ceramic case, with a black resin insert forming the “ears” that distinguish the Hublot porthole-style case.

The watch is driven by the HUB1280, an in-house movement with a flyback chronograph. The movement construction is modular, leaving the chronograph mechanism to the visible on the dial, with the column wheel visible at six o’clock. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz), the HUB1280 delivers a power reserve of three days.

Key facts and price

Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic
Ref. 441.CIB.1171.RX

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Black ceramic with multicoloured ceramic bezel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. HUB1280
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Black rubber strap

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: Now at Hublot boutiques
Price: US$33,000

For more, visit hublot.com

Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements — most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case.

The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear.

Initial thoughts

Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type.

But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable.

While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises to US$42,700 in King Gold).

Crémaillère

Distinguished by its unconventional linear-bridge architecture inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy, the Meca-10 movement is treated to match the case material, which is available in titanium, carbon composite, or King Gold.

Though it’s relatively simple in terms of function – just time and power reserve – it has an impressive 10-day power reserve thanks to two large and visible barrels.

The power reserve indicator takes centerstage on the dial, with an indicator at three o’clock and the crémaillère, or rack-and-pinion system, located just above under 12 o’clock and echoes the Meccano style of the bridges.

It’s made up of a linear gear meshing with a circular gear that drives the power reserve hand, which is tensioned by a concentric spring. This contrasts with conventional power reserve indicators that rely on fan-shaped racks.

The HUB1205 calibre is manual wind and beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz). Reflecting the double barrels and elaborate construction, the movement consists of 264 components, a high part count for a time-and-power-reserve.

Key facts and price

Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 10 Days Power Reserve
Ref. 444.OX.1180.RX (King Gold)
Ref. 444.NX.1170.RX (Titanium)
Ref. 444.QN.1170.NR (Carbon black)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: 18k King Gold; titanium; or carbon composite
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. HUB1205
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per second (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 10 days

Strap: Black rubber strap or black fabric strap with velcro fastener

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Hublot boutiques
Price: US$23,000 in titanium; US$27,400 in carbon; US$42,700 in King Gold

For more, visit hublot.com

Hublot’s latest release is a limited edition created in collaboration with Novak Djokovic, the tennis champion who has 24 Grand Slam titles. The Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is encased in a carbon composite that recycles the player’s tennis racquets and Lacoste polo t-shirts. And its movement has been reworked to utilise aluminium bridges and plates, ensuring the entire watch weighs less than a tennis ball.

Initial thoughts

Often criticised for its pricey, Sellita-equipped entry-level models and numerous limited editions, Hublot is sometimes controversial. The brand’s higher-end watches, however, are usually more interesting (and occasionally very complex) and sometimes better value.

Priced at US$52,700, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is expensive enough that it’s not a value proposition. It is, however, interesting for the case material. Moreover it holds a special appeal for fans of Novak Djokovic. And intrinsically, it is technically competent as it’s equipped with a modified Unico movement that is mostly aluminium and ultra light.

Tennis racquets

Sized like the standard Big Bang Unico, this measures 42 mm by 14.5 mm. The case material, however, is unique. The case and bezel are in a composite derived from 25 Head tennis racquets, 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo t-shirts used by Djokovic throughout the 2023 season.

These ground-up racquets and shirts are mixed with an epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass, resulting in a distinctive speckled appearance incorporating fragments of light and dark blue textile alongside black carbon fibre.

Thanks to the lightweight material,, the weight of the watch, including the strap, is less than a that of a tennis ball. Notably, the watch is delivered with a brand-new Lacoste polo shirt signed by Novak Djokovic, and a Lacoste sports wristband.

The upper pusher is in tennis ball yellow, while the lower pusher is in white

Covering the dial is Gorilla Glass, a reinforced glass that’s twice as light as sapphire crystal and most famous for being used in the iPhone.

Accented in yellow, the dial is open-worked to display the mechanics of the Unico movement, including the date disc and column wheel. And the seconds hand has a “D”-shaped counterweight in the form of the player’s emblem.

The in-house HUB1280 Unico flyback chronograph calibre has been re-engineered for lightness. Conventional brass bridges with plates in lightweight aluminium that’s been anodised in light blue to complement the case. As a result, the movement is nearly 27% lighter than a standard version.

Mechanically, the calibre remains the same and has 72 hours of power reserve, while the balance beats at 28,800 beats per second (4 Hz).

Key facts and price

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic
Ref. 441.QKB.5120.NR.DJO24

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Composite crafted using Novak Djokovic’s racquets and polos
Crystal: Gorilla glass
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. HUB1280
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Blue velcro fastener fabric; blue elastic strap; white rubber strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Now at Hublot boutiques
Price: US$52,700

For more, visit hublot.com

Two years ago Hublot introduced mineral stone dials for the first time and now the brand has returned to Earth’s rare natural stones – and one from elsewhere in the galaxy – with the Classic Fusion Elements II.

As with the first edition, the Elements II is a limited edition for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass made up of five different models, each sporting a dial of mineral stone: pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite.

The Elements II is based on Hublot’s signature time-only watch, a minimalist design with the trademark porthole-shaped bezel and case. With just three hands and no date, plus the Hublot logo in gold-powder print, the dial is a blank slate that allows the grain of each mineral stone to stand out.

Turquoise

Initial thoughts

Hublot does two things well, the minimalist, classic Hublot, and artist collaborations, particularly the recent Daniel Arsham and earlier Takashi Murakami. The Elements II is essentially a classic Hublot with a mineral stone dial free of any markings save for the brand logo in gilt print. The clean aesthetic of the dial is maximised to show off the natural graining of various mineral stones.

The case is unusual for being entirely in polished titanium, and also two-tone thanks to 18k gold accents, but it’s a perfect complement to the colours of the mineral stone dials.

Lunar meteorite

This might seem surprising given the clean styling of the watch, but the stone dials would have arguably been even more striking in the full-size, 45 mm Classic Fusion instead of the 42 mm as it is now.

A larger case would also have resulted in a wider space for the mineral stone dials. At the same time, the 45 mm model has slightly  more elegant proportions – it feels thinner because the case thickness is similar but the case is wider.

Pink jasper

From Earth and the cosmos

Each of the stone dials – pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite – vary in appearance (and price). At a distance, the nephrite appears to be an almost-uniform forest green, but reveals a fine graining up close.

The nephrite jade model

Up close the nephrite jade dial reveals both texture and shading

The turquoise and sodalite dials, on the other hand, reveal prominent veining that gives them a distinctive look that is synonymous with mineral stone.

Sodalite

The priciest of the Elements II is the lunar meteorite. This is unusual as it is made from a different type of meteorite than most watch dials.

Majority of meteorite watch dials are made of iron meteorite, essentially an alloy of iron and nickel, that originate from asteroids. The large Gibeon meteorite that landed in what is now Namibia is most often used for watch dials, simply because supply is plentiful.

Lunar meteorites, in contrast, are meteorites that come from the moon. These are typically rock, explaining the mineral-like appearance of the Elements II with a meteorite dial, instead of the familiar streaky graining of an ironmeteorite dial.

The lunar meteorite dial

Like the preceding editions, the Elements II uses the mid-size Classic Fusion case that’s a handy 42 mm wide and 10.4 mm. It’s a compact size that’s easy to wear, but it looks slightly smaller than it is, perhaps because Hublot watches are generally large.

Unusually, the case is almost entirely polished titanium, an unusual finish for the model, which typically employs both matte brushing and mirror polishing. The polished titanium is matched with 18k gold for the screws, crown, and under-bezel for a two-tone effect.

Sodalite

The only part of the case that is polished is the back. Notably, the case back is secured with gold screws as well, reflecting the attention to detail in the design. The open back reveals the HUB1112, which is a Sellita SW300-1 dressed up with an open-worked rotor. A watch like this deserves a more sophisticated calibre, and that will come with time as it is known that Hublot has an in-house automatic in the works.

Key facts and price

Hublot Classic Fusion 42 mm Elements II
Ref. 542.NX.6280.LR.THG (Pink jasper)
Ref. 542.NX.5180.LR.THG (Sodalite)
Ref. 542.NX.5280.LR.THG (Nephrite jade)
Ref. 542.NX.6380.LR.THG (Turquoise)
Ref. 542.NX.5580.LR.THG (Lunar meteorite)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.4 mm
Material: Titanium and 18k gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: HUB1112 (Sellita SW300-1)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Alligator covered rubber with folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces in each dial variation
Availability: At The Hour Glass stores in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam
Price: (Including Singapore taxes)
Jasper, and Sodalite – 31,700 Singapore dollars, or about US$24,500
Nephrite Jade – 32,400 Singapore dollars, or about US$25,100
Turquoise – 34,800 Singapore dollars, or about US$26,900
Lunar Meteorite – 43,200 Singapore dollars, or about US$33,500

For more, visit thehourglass.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with The Hour Glass.

Expected but not quite so soon, longtime Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe is retiring after two decades at its helm, first as managing director for eight years followed by another 12 years as chief executive, during which he oversaw the expansion of Hublot’s manufacture as well as collaborations like the Daniel Arsham pocket watch.

Now 59 years old with some four decades in the watch industry, Mr Guadalupe will be replaced by Julien Tornare, who was only just named to the top job at TAG Heuer in January 2024 when Frederic Arnault was named chief executive of the LVMH Watches Division. In turn, Mr Tornare will be succeeded by Antoine Pin, who was most recently head of Bulgari’s watch business. Who succeeds Mr Pin has not yet been officially announced. All the new appointments take effect come September 1, 2024.

From left: Julien Tornare, Frédéric Arnault, Ricardo Guadalupe, and Antoine Pin

Mr Guadalupe is a watch industry lifer, having started in the business at Bulgari in the mid 1980s before moving to Blancpain and then Hublot. For about a year now, Hublot insiders have been saying Mr Guadalupe appeared ready for retirement, though the announcement still comes as unexpected.

Slated to become the Honorary President of Hublot after he steps down, Mr Guadalupe’s retirement might be due in part to the marked slowdown in the watch industry, which no doubt contributed to the significant management overhaul at Richemont, where new faces were appointed to the chief executive post for the group, its largest brand Cartier, and its second largest, Van Cleef & Arpels.

With Mr Tornare in the job at TAG Heuer for just seven months, his move to Hublot does not feel like it was long planned. He comes to Hublot after a brief stint at TAG Heuer where he had insufficient time to make his mark, but before that Mr Tornare had seven years at Zenith where he oversaw a near-doubling of sales with bestsellers like the Chronomaster.

Taking over TAG Heuer is Antonine Pin, an LVMH veteran who has been with the group for over three decades. Under his watch the Bulgari watch division set records for ultra-thin watches and revived historical classics like the Bulgari-Bulgari.

Hublot just unveiled the third instalment of Essential Grey, a series of watches dressed in a cool monochrome. The latest addition is the Classic Fusion Essential Grey that’s available in two sizes of 42 mm and 45 mm.

It’s a low-key look that sports a sun ray-brushed grey dial and titanium case. As is convention for Essential Grey, the pair are available only online.

The case sports the iconic porthole-shaped bezel

Initial thoughts

While earlier Essential Grey models were chronographs, the new pair are simply, time-and-date watches. Despite being monochromatic, the Essential Grey chronographs looked busy. The Classic Fusion, on the other hand, is a perfect match for the monochromatic palette.

The design is as clean as a Hublot can be, which complements the colour scheme well. Already a wearable watch in itself, the Classic Fusion in this restrained styling is made even more wearable.

The only weakness of the watch is the price. At US$8,500, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey is amongst the most affordable Hublot models, but it costs that much despite the basic Sellita SW300 movement inside. The SW300 is a strong performer but inexpensive and usually found in correspondingly inexpensive watches. I know that Hublot is working on a workhorse in-house calibre to take the place of the SW300, but until then the price is stiff.

Porthole

The Classic Fusion Essential Grey is available in 42 mm and 45 mm variants, with both identical save for the case dimensions. The 42 mm version is 10.4 mm thick, while the 45 mm version is 10.95 mm.

Both are powered by variants of the Sellita SW300, slightly modified to suit each case. The 42 mm version contains the HUB1110, while the 45 mm version is powered by the HUB1112.

Based on the Sellita SW300.

Styling is consistent across both variants. It’s classic Hublot with the porthole-shaped bezel secured by six H-head screws. The case is titanium with contrasting brushed and mirror-polish surfaces.

Featuring a sun-ray grey dial.

Finished in metallic grey, the dial is radially brushed and has a date at three with a matching grey date disc. Both the hour indices and hands are polished and faceted.

The strap is integrated into the case

As is standard for the Classic Fusion, the strap is secured to the case with screws, unlike higher-end Hublot models that feature a quick-release function. The fabric-covered rubber strap is matched with Hublot’s standard single-fold clasp that is not particularly ergonomic.

Key facts and price

Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey
Ref. 542.NX.5610.NR.HEC24
Ref. 511.NX.5610.NR.HEC24

Diameter: 42 mm/45 mm
Height: 10.4 mm/10.95 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: HUB1110/HUB1112 (both based on Sellita SW300)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,000 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Grey rubber strap with stainless steel deployment buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Hublot boutiques and retailers starting June 2024
Price: US$8,500

For more, visit hublot.com

An artist famous for his “eroded” Future Relic works, Daniel Arsham also occupies a prominent place in popular culture thanks to his collaborations with brands from Porsche to Dior to Pokemon. Now he brings his unique style to Hublot with the Arsham Droplet, a sleek pocket watch (or pendant watch) in titanium and sapphire crystal that transforms into a desk clock.

The Arsham Droplet reflects the recurring of past-and-future found in many of Mr Arsham’s work. “The [Droplet] looks futuristic to me… like it’s been pulled from the future,” says Mr Arsham, yet “people were last carrying pocket watch a hundred years ago”.

Initial thoughts

Having spoken to him about watches before, it is clear that Mr Arsham is a collector himself and owns watches that enthusiast would envy. This is why the Droplet is a lot more than many artist-watchmaker collaborations.

Daniel Arsham

Hublot has done a variety of artist collaborations in the past that were of varying appeal to me personally. I loved the Murakami, less so the Orlinski. The Arsham Droplet is not only appealing, but it is “surprising” as himself Mr Arsham describes it.

Not only is it surprising because it’s a pocket watch in a novel shape and material, but also because “it doesn’t contain iconic elements I’ve used in the past” says Mr Arsham.

The Droplet is not merely an “eroded” wristwatch or one dressed in Arsham colours. Instead it was conceived from the ground up, and the result is a fascinating, tactile object that is simultaneously organic and technical.

It is more artwork than timepiece, which was the goal from the conception of the project. “I’m never doing just a light touch” when working with another company, explains Mr Arsham, “I want to use their capabilities for someone I couldn’t produce on my own.”

A keen eye for detail is visible across the watch and accessories, from the links of the chains (one for the pocket and the other for the neck) to the presentation box. In fact, Mr Arsham designed the presentation box, specifying the form, material, and function.

The only element of the watch that is recognisably stock is the MECA-10 movement (although the keyless works were modified to accommodate a telescopic crown), but that’s a good thing as the calibre is Hublot’s most interesting time-only movement. At the same time, the MECA-10 is large enough it looks at home in a pocket watch case.

The only aspect of the watch I would change is the rubber “bumper” around the outline of the case. Visually the jumper is a perfect fit for the watch – Mr Arsham designed it specifically for this watch – and it is also practical as it increases grip. But I feel that rubber inserts feel out of place on a high-end watch, which would be better served by an alternative like textured ceramic for instance.

A timekeeping object

A project that took three years from concept to final product, the Arsham Droplet is essentially a titanium frame containing the movement. The lower section of the case is open worked to form a bubble pattern, while the flanks are inlaid with a rubber bumper in the artist’s signature “Arsham Green” that’s been moulded with a repeating Arsham Studio emblem.

The asymmetric form of the case is entirely ergonomic according to Mr Arsham. “The shape came from how the object would sit in the hand,” he explains, emphasising the tactile quality of the watch.

The titanium case is clad with a pair of teardrop-shaped sapphire crystals on both sides. Both crystals are thick and domed, forming a key part of the tactile quality of the case. In the early stages of the project, a cover was considered for the dial but abandoned, because it “felt too fussy or technical” according to Mr Arsham, who prefers this streamlined form.

In many ways, this looks nothing like a Hublot. Mr Arsham himself points out “this the first [Hublot] that isn’t symmetrical and orthogonal”.

But the key elements of the Hublot aesthetic have been preserved, particularly on the face. “I want to keep the iconic elements of a Hublot watch,” says Mr Arsham, so the dial of the watch is typical Hublot, with the sapphire crystal secured by six “H” head screws.

Under the crystal is the MECA-10 movement, a hand-wind calibre with a ten-day power reserve. The linear, geometric bridges of the movement were inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy, but here they have been customised in Arsham Green, as have the hands.

The movement is largely identical to the standard version, save for the crown. Instead of a conventional crown mounted on the case, this has a telescopic crown that sits recessed, giving the case a seamless silhouette. Operation is simple: push the crown inwards and it pops out for winding and setting.

The strap attachment is Hublot’s proprietary “one-click” quick-release mechanism that allows the chain to the removed by pressing a button. Mr Arsham pointed out the “one-click” system as one of his favourite elements of the watch, because it is intuitive and allows for instant transformation of the object.

The watch is delivered with two chains in polished titanium. A longer one that transforms the Arsham Droplet into a pendant watch, and a short one with a carabiner at the end that allows it to be worn like a traditional pocket watch.

Freed from its chains, the watch transforms into a desk clock. The “one-click” mechanism on the case locks onto a socket on a titanium base with a decorative glass orb in Arsham Green.

A vertical glass magnifying lens sits on the base in front of the watch, enlarging the dial for desktop display.

Reflecting Mr Arsham’s attention to detail, he also designed the box for the Arsham Droplet. It’s a sandblasted aluminium case that contains the watch as well as the twin chains and desk stand.

Key facts and price

Hublot Arsham Droplet 
Ref. 916.NX.5202.NK

Diameter: 73.2 mm by 52.6 mm
Height: 22.5 mm
Material: Titanium with green rubber “bumpers”
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: MECA-10
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual-wind
Power reserve: Ten days

Strap: Chains for neck or pocket, and glass desk stand

Limited edition: 99 pieces
Availability: Available in Hublot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$88,000

For more information, visit Hublot.com.

A perfect illustration of Hublot’s extravagant style and technical proficiency, the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire boasts 336 hours of power reserve thanks to seven laterally stacked barrels working with 90° bevel gears and a helical worm screw to drive the movement.

This is a new variant of an existing model, with the difference being the case crafted from transparent “water blue” sapphire crystal.

Initial thoughts

Hublot is an anomaly. It’s one of the 20 biggest watchmakers in Switzerland by revenue and boasts a vertically integrated manufactured but is often criticised for being something of a “fashion” brand by enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts alike.

Part of this pushback probably stems from the brand’s entry-level watches that use inexpensive stock movements that are priced expensively for what they are. The mechanics don’t live up to the price. That reasoning is sound, but it doesn’t reflect the brand’s top-of-the-line products.

Like the recent MP-10, the new MP-11 reflects Hublot’s ability in movements and materials. Its manufacture develops and produces complex in-house calibres with unique complications and novel constructions, usually presented in cases made of novel materials with distinctive aesthetics and properties.

The only downside of such complications is their size. The MP-11 is enormous at 45 mm in diameter, and it isn’t even the chunkiest watch that Hublot produces. This limits its wearability and even on a big wrist, the ergonomics are not perfect.

Priced at US$171,000, the MP-11 “Water Blue Sapphire” is priced competitively in its specific niche, one also occupied by brands like Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis. Granted, it’s a lot of money, but considering the movement and case material, the price is justified, at least relative to the competition.

“Water blue” sapphire

The MP-11 14 sports a synthetic sapphire case in “water blue”, a baby blue shade that chimes with today’s fad for such colours. Although “grown” with a new chemical formula, the blue sapphire still maintains the usual characteristics of the material, including transparency and surface hardness.

Measuring 45 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm thick, the sapphire case is finished by hand for a perfectly smooth and clear finish. In the typical Big Bang style, the case is constructed as a sandwich, with sapphire front and back plates containing a sapphire case middle.

The dial has the time display at 12 o’clock, while the seven barrels are arranged horizontally across the lower half of the dial. Because the barrels sit above the plane of the movement, the sapphire crystal covering the dial is partially domed to accurate the barrels.

At eight o’clock, at the end of the barrel stack, is the power reserve indicator taking the form of a wheel, which completes one revolution every two weeks.

The fluting on the crown echoes the helical gear for time setting and winding

The watch is equipped with the HUB9011, a manually-wound skeletonised calibre with 270 parts that runs at 28,800 beats per hour. The view from the back explains the construction of the movement with the going train occupying the upper half, with the barrels below.

Key facts and price

Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire
Ref. 911.JL.0129.RX

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 14.4 mm
Material: “Water blue” sapphire
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HUB9011
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4Hz)
Winding: Manual-wind
Power reserve: 14 Days

Strap: Matching rubber strap

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Available in Hublot boutiques and retailers starting April 2024
Price: US$171,000

For more information, visit Hublot.com.