Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance.

While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite.

The RD780

Initial Thoughts

In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback.

It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry.

With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mille RM 71-91 is the obvious point of comparison, though the Spider Flyback is still bigger, brasher, and more technically adept. Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Flyback is another alternative, and offered in a similar pink-gold-and-black livery.

The Spider Flyback sits firmly between the two, price wise, with plenty of space on either side. The Spider Flyback’s movement, however, is arguably more sophisticated than either of its direct competitors. Watches like this aren’t a value-focused genre, so I won’t hold the US$135,000 price tag against it, especially when you can spend more and get less.

Spider Like

While the Excalibur Spider Flyback is a few years old now, this is the first iteration in gold. It’s paired with black, DLC-coated titanium buttons and a matching quick-release rubber strap.

The case is large, 45 mm in diameter and 16.1 mm in height, and an evolution of the familiar Excalibur design. The bulk suits the aggressive and vaguely automotive styling; though the motorsport cues are more apparent from the back with an alloy wheel-inspired rotor.

The “Spider” label indicates this is a lightweight version of the Excalibur, hence the open-worked lugs and case flanks. Roger Dubuis first launched the Excalibur Spider design with a web-like, open-worked tourbillon movement to match the airy skeletonised lugs and crown. The chronograph takes a different approach, opting not to fully skeletonise the movement, only letting a sliver of daylight by the balance through.

Rather than openness, the Spider Flyback’s movement offers incredible depth, pulling you in rather than leaping out. The RD780 is pocket watch-sized at 16”’ (or about 36 mm) wide and 10.7 mm tall. For comparison, the famously bulky Valjoux 7750 is 13.25”’ (about 30 mm) wide by 7.9 mm.

Note the quick-release tabs facilitating quick strap exchange

Like all Roger Dubuis movements, the RD780 proudly bears the Poinçon de Genève. The chronograph is a spec-sheet darling with a column wheel and vertical clutch. The former is positioned at six o’clock for symmetry and lacks the traditional cap that Roger Dubious once employed.

The latter features the brand’s patented Second Braking System; this approach mounts the chronograph brake directly one of the vertical clutch pincers. I assume this is most beneficial when the reset hammers don’t sit against cams when zeroed, as is the case for most flybacks, though that is only speculation on my part.

Besides a chronograph, the enormous size accommodates two mainspring barrels for 72 hours of going, automatic winding with a central rotor, and, surprisingly, a date.

The latter is notable only because avante-gard watches like the Excalibur Spider often omit the otherwise ubiquitous calendar. Here, a stencil-style, calendar wheel displays the date in negative using a white segment at six o’clock for contrast. You can quick-set the calendar from the crown, a feature often taken as a given, but lacking on sport chronographs from fellow Genevois watchmaker Patek Philippe that employ a recessed pusher.

The assortment contains some interesting features of its own, including a diamond-coated silicon escapement and 12° inclined balance. Today, out-of-plane balances are most associated with Greubel Forsey, and often considered cutting edge, though such oscillators were first experimented with during the pocket watch era in the early 20th century.

The balance on the carbon variant.

An inclined balance exploits the way watches are typically measured, obfuscating differences between horizontal and vertical positions. In practical terms this reduces of difference between leaving the Excalibur Spider Flyback on its side and on its back. It also reduces the lateral space the balance occupies, though necessarily increases the thickness of the movement.

Dial

Turning to the dial, the Spider Flyback looks like a dial-less design exposing the movement at first. A closer look reveals a number of black and gold trim pieces, giving the illusion of a highly three dimensional movement. It’s most obvious with the jewel cut-outs on the faux barrel bridge when observed at an angle, but is well executed otherwise.

More notably, the Spider Flyback takes a creative approach to minutes tallying. While mechanically a normal minutes counter, the display of elapsed minutes is unusual.

The tri-spoke minutes hand carries the tens numeral for the minutes, while the single units of minutes are arranged on a stationary scale. Elapsed minutes in the same manner the time on a wandering hours display. It’s a surprisingly legible solution that fits the overall aesthetic well.

Outboard are a tachymetre scale and seconds track, with fraction of a second hashes properly calibrated for a 4 Hz movement, which is good attention to detail. And, unlike tonneau-shaped chronographs from a previously mentioned brand, the sweep seconds hand touches the scale at all times, making it quite practical.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
Ref. RDDBEX1138

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 16.1 mm
Material: Pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: RD 780
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and flyback chronograph with 120° Rotating Minute Counter (RMC)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hours (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: Yes, 88 pieces
Availability: Only at Roger Dubuis boutiques
Price: US$135,000

For more, visit Rogerdubuis.com.

Roger Dubuis is celebrating 30 years by looking back on its days as a trend-setting independent. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar deftly balances the spirit of Genevan watchmaking from the brand’s early years in the 1990s with the boisterous designs of the 2000s in a manageable size, but less manageable price.

While the style is reminiscent of the oversized Excalibur models that were far from ergonomic, the Biretrograde Calendar has been redesigned for wearability. The retrograde calendar mechanism on the front is an in-house construction, built on top of the brand’s own automatic movement that is unexpectedly sophisticated and classical.

Initial Thoughts

Roger Dubuis is a marque built on calendars, so the new Excalibur has historical resonance. The late Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe alumni who caught his big break working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who would go on to found Agenhor, on a double retrograde perpetual calendar developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston. It was during the project that Dubuis met his future business partner, Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur who would help establish the Roger Dubuis brand and transform it into a hit maker in the 2000s.

The same double retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism would accompany the first Roger Dubuis model the brand’s debut in 1995. And the retrograde calendar also has a historical connection to Geneva, as a local watchmaker named Marius LeCoultre created the most prolific retrograde perpetual design of the 19th century. The complication, in other words, is right at home for a watch brand rooted in Geneva.

The return of the brand’s signature complication in a moderately-sized case would be a poetic way to celebrate 30 years, but this is not a perpetual calendar. It is a simple calendar, making the price tag CHF56,500 (equivalent to US$70,000), somewhat steep.

The calendar mechanism is executed in a refined manner and showcased on the dial. That, and the high quality of execution, including the Poinçon de Genève and a high-end base calibre, are in its favour, but this is still priced above a simple calendar from Vacheron Constantin for instance.

The lack of a perpetual function is disappointing, though the original models were also available as simple calendars. It is also likely that Roger Dubuis has a perpetual calendar in the pipeline.

Biretro

The Biretrograde Calendar retains the exact same layout as Roger Dubuis’ historical double retrograde, which was available in both perpetual and simple calendar formats. A calendar emblem in a circle at 12 o’clock echoes the same logo on the historical models.

Unlike the original version that was developed by Agenhor, the new double retrograde display was developed in house. It is also almost certainly much more reliable than the original, which was finicky and delicate, often prone to getting stuck.

The dial exposes the retrograde calendar works, which are elegantly shaped but robustly formed. Notably, the calendar mechanism is also symmetrical on both sides.

A 31-tooth wheel at three o’clock controls the date, advancing clockwise by one step each day at midnight, carrying a snail-shaped cam.

A spring pushes a lever (which is connected to the date hand) against the snail. The snail acts like a ramp, pushing the date lever further and further away from the centre, advancing the date each time.

Then, on the final day the lever falls off the end of the ramp, back to where it started, causing the date hand to jump backwards from the 31st to the first in an instant. The second lever jumps wheel forward one step when you press the correction pusher. This is mirrored at nine 0’clock for the day, but the wheel only has seven steps for the days of the week.

Excalibur

In terms of design, the Excalibur case has changed surprisingly little since Carlos Dias pulled it from a stone in 2005, just two years after Mr Dubuis retired. Back then, the brand was growing rapidly, helmed by the flamboyant Mr Dias until he sold the brand to Richemont in the aftermath of the 2008 financial crisis.

But the new case has been scaled down and almost surprisingly wearable. The original Excalibur was 45 mm in diameter, as was the fashion in 2005, but the Biretrograde Calendar is a modest 40 mm, more in line with today’s taste.

It still has the chunky tripe lugs and notched bezel that characterise the design, resulting in a watch that appears larger than it is. But on the wrist the downsized Excalibur wears well, though the integrated leather strap is stiff as such straps always are.

The new case is also quite svelte for a complicated Excalibur, at only 11.25 mm tall, though still reassuringly 100 m water resistant.

For comparison, the only other bi-retrograde model in Roger Dubuis’ current collection, the Excalibur Grande Complication that was also launched this year, is an ungainly 45 mm in diameter and 17.5 mm thick.

That said, the 40 mm Excalibur still much larger than the first-generation Sympathie models designed by the late Dubuis, which were 35 mm and then 37 mm.

Size comparizon with the Sympathie S37 similar to that worn by the late Dubuis himself

The case finishing has also been refined. The detailing is sophisticated compared to early Excalibur models, which were almost entirely mirror polished. Here most surfaces are finely bushed with mirror polishing only used for accents like the bevels on the lugs, and on the notched bezel.

The calfskin strap is so impressively bolstered as to resemble moulded elastomer strap, and nearly blends into the case. This was a trademark feature of the Excalibur since its inception, but never helped wearability. Even now the scaled-down case would be more wearable with a conventional strap.

As with other Richemont brands, Roger Dubuis uses a quick release system for the strap, allowing for easy removal of the strap without tools. Pressing the spring loaded tabs on the back of the strap frees the strap from the case, while the butterfly clasp is secured to the strap with a twist lock mechanism for seamless swapping.

Calibre and Cadrature

Inside dwells the RD480, an automatic distinguished with the Poinçon de Genève, a 60-hour autonomy, and directly-driven small seconds.

Visually, the movement is classical, which is surprising for a modern-day automatic. I suspect, as with many things, Roger Dubius took inspiration from vintage Patek Philippe, specifically the 27-460 AT and the earlier cal. 12-600 AT found in the Calatrava ref. 2526 – which some regard as most beautiful automatic of the 20th century.

The movement also bears the Poinçon de Genève, a hallmark that was a big deal in the 20th century. Historically, the “Geneva Seal” was stylistic and set standards for construction and decoration. Today it also includes (somewhat lenient) functional requirements for accuracy, timekeeping, and water resistance.

Most importantly, the hallmark guarantees the movement is fully finished in all respect, not only on the parts that can be seen, which isn’t always a guarantee, even at this price point. The obvious points of comparison are Vacheron Constantin’s cal. 5100 and Patek Philippe’s cal. 26-330, against which the RD480 holds up well.

The RD480 isn’t quite a best-in-decades calibre – the finger bridges could be less lumpy and a free-sprung balance would be appreciated – but it’s still better than most contemporary automatics.

Several details stand out, including the seconds. Though seemingly trivial, the directly-driven seconds is a detail that reflects the high-end construction of the movement, which is an in-house calibre that traces its origins back to the 2000s. Self-winding movements with indigenous small seconds displays are sparse, as most place the fourth wheel, which carries the seconds hand, in the centre of the watch, and instead add another train on the dial side for the seconds.

The RD480 is, however, slightly small for the 40 mm case, leaving the small seconds looking cramped on the front, though the bright, iridescent nacre inlay around the dial helps maintain balance. Though not obvious at first, the panels across six and 12 o’clock are mother of pearl, which helps the dial look less aggressively mechanical.

The small size is better disguised from the back thanks to a rotor that is significantly larger than the movement. The calibre is encircled by a spacer ring engraved, “C’est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient”.

That translates roughly as “This is a watch of today, inspired by but not bound to the past, which looks ahead to a future that belongs to us”, which is apt, though the use of recessed-pusher correctors in the case band to isn’t very forward thinking.

Concluding thoughts

The moderate size of the Biretrogade Calendar is appreciated, sitting nicely between the 36 mm and 42 mm models (not to mention the enormous 45 mm and 48 mm), and captures the spirit of Roger Dubius’ early days surprisingly well despite the contemporary design language.

While a perpetual calendar would be welcome, it’s reassuring to see the brand tackle a more manageable complication first, rather than repeat past mistakes in terms of size. The robustness of the in-house calendar, compared to the originals, can’t be overstated.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Ref. DBEX1179

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.25 mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. RD480
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde day and date.
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Calf leather strap with matching 18K pink gold clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Exclusively at Roger Dubuis boutiques
Price: CHF56,500

For more, visit Rogerdubuis.com

No stranger to extravagant timepieces, Roger Dubuis’ brand of “Hyper Horology” is apparent in its bold design language and intricate, showy movements. For Watches & Wonders 2024 the manufacture presents the Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, a central tourbillon with an expectedly classical movement.

Initial thoughts

The way Roger Dubuis carries itself now is very different from the brand’s early, classically styled pieces. The current house style is centred on mechanical aesthetics, angular shapes, and large cases with proprietary triple lugs. The Orbis in Machina sticks to that familiar style, although the front appears more subdued and technical than the average Roger Dubuis complication. Despite the layered and open-worked dial, the technicality of the piece is mostly concealed.

Orbis in Machina still carries a few embellishments, resulting in a design that is clearly opulent in a hyper-mechanical sort of way. Seemingly sitting at the top of a stack of moving parts on the dial, the tourbillon regulator serves as the centrepiece.

Paradoxically, the more restrained composition on the outside contrasts with the interesting and sophisticated mechanics within. The movement fills up the large case, creating a sense of visual density.

This is more evident on the back, which tells a whole different story compared to the front. The display back reveals an intricate and exquisitely finished movement. Stylistically, the RD115 movement is also an unusual and appealing juxtaposition: the calibre looks modern in its entirety, although the individual parts are traditionally styled and finished.

The RD115 has an interesting execution because the movement architecture was adapted to the central position of the tourbillon. This dictates the peripheral hands, which require planetary gears that call for a more intricate gearing than a conventional going train.

More than a tourbillon

Roger Dubuis has a strong foundation in watchmaking – it was one of the first independent brands to build integrated manufacture – with a strong emphasis on in-house movements, most of them incorporating tourbillons. This watch is a “Monotourbillon” because Roger Dubuis has numerous double tourbillon watches in its catalogue.

At the same time, all Roger Dubuis calibres are hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, the Geneva seal of quality. Qualifying for the seal does beyond just a well finished movement, but also requires specific requirements regarding the architecture and key components. As a result, calibres bearing the Poinçon de Genève are usually developed from the beginning with these criteria in mind.

The Poinçon de Genève is discreetly stamped on the dial at three o’clock

Illustrating both Roger Dubuis’ manufacturing ability and Poinçon de Genève quality, the RD115 has been found in past models, including the Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon. Here the movement arguably has more presence with the more restrained dial aesthetics.

While most other Roger Dubuis tourbillons are skeletonised, the Monotourbillon has virtually no dial – only three concentric disks. The watch doesn’t feature a conventional handset either. Instead small peripheral hands, driven by planetary gearing, indicate the time against the concentric discs. The outermost disc is for the hours, followed by the minutes, and finally the running seconds are indicated by the centrally mounted tourbillon.

The flying tourbillon cage revolves once a minute (which is why it can double as the seconds hand). The visible upper half of the cage is a mirror-polished cobalt-chrome alloy, while the lower half is titanium. These materials leave it light but sturdy, useful properties for a flying tourbillon, which has only one anchoring point on its base, unlike classic tourbillons that are pivoted on both sides.

The 3 Hz balance inside the cage features a flat balance and pin regulator. Considering the high-end nature of the rest of the movement, an overcoil hairspring and free-sprung balance would have been more appropriate.  

The movement runs for 72 hours on a full wind – remarkable considering the power intensive tourbillon and peripheral time display.  

The view on the back clearly draws from the brand’s origins in classical watches and movements. Most of the brand adopt a the traditional finger-like shape, as found in classical pocket watch movements coming from the French-speaking regions of Switzerland.

In keeping with the requirements of the Geneva Seal, the widely spaced bridges are each striped and angled, with chamfered slots for the screws and jewels. The screw heads and gear pivots are all mirror polished and create a uniform look with the rhodium-plated bridges. The baseplate is generously finished with perlage decoration and features deep cutouts to the dial side. 

Though a less important aspect of the movement, the rocker-type keyless works are an interesting choice and illustrate the thought put into its construction.

This allows for a function-selector crown, where the setting and winding functions are engaged by a pusher cleverly concealed in the upper crown guard. This does away with the need to pull the crown to set the time. And built into the setting mechanism is patent-pending safety device that prevents the user from damaging the watch during time setting, a necessary due to the unusual peripheral handset and central tourbillon.

The case is typical Roger Dubuis Excalibur style. It’s in 18k pink gold and is a broad 45 mm in diameter. For ergonomics, the lugs curve generously downwards.

The notched bezel is aggressively angular and sculpted, which continues with the crown, crown guards, and lugs with broad bevels. Like most recent Roger Dubuis watches, the case has distinctive triple lugs, but unlike earlier versions, this has a concealed system for easily changing the straps.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon
Ref. RDDBEX1119

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 14.41 mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. RD115
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Calf leather strap with matching 18K pink gold clasp

Limited edition: 88 pieces
Availability: Exclusively at Roger Dubuis boutiques
Price: CHF180,000

For more, visit Rogerdubuis.com

The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement.

Initial thoughts

Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner.

Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings.

At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, though RD doesn’t have the cachet of Richard Mille or the strong design codes of Hublot.

In fact, the movement finishing is arguably more comparable to Vacheron Constantin, which similarly uses movements that bear the Poinçon de Genève (otherwise known as the Geneva Seal), although the diverging designs mean that each probably appeals to an entirely different audience.

The only omission is the case back, which has a dragon motif on the sapphire crystal in metallised print. This feels a bit too plain for an otherwise well executed watch.

The brass dragon

The dragon on the dial is made up of 27 brass plates, each decorated with black lacquer on the flanks and pink gold plated on top. The individual pieces are inlaid onto the movement bridges on 25 different levels, each position at different angles to give the dragon a three-dimensional aspect. The dragon replaces the usual star-shaped bridge that defines most RD tourbillons, and fills up the negative space on the expansive dial.

Because the movement is skeletonised, the watch has no actual dial. Instead Super-Luminova-filled hour markers are mounted on a brass flange, with each index echoing the v-shaped notches on the bezel, a key design element of the Excalibur line. Continuing the styling to the case, the open-worked pink gold hour and minute hands are satin-brushed and filled with black Super-Luminova.

The pink gold case is 42 mm wide in diameter and 12.62 mm high, large but more wearable than many RD complications. Accented by wide, polished bevels, the triple lugs are curved down for better wearability. The case has a water-resistance rating of 100 m – unusual for a skeleton tourbillon – along with a screw-down crown protected by the angular crown guards that continue the sculpted lines of the lugs.

The skeletonised RD512SQ movement offers a full, unobstructed view of most of its moving parts, most notably of the “Monotourbillon”, which is RD’s label for its flying tourbillon. Shaped like a Celtic cross, the tourbillon’s lower cage is made of non-magnetic titanium, while the upper cage is mirror-polished cobalt-chrome. Thanks to an visible, large mainspring, the manually-wound movement has a long power reserve of 72 hours.

A dragon motif is printed on the rear sapphire crystal

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon
Ref. RDDBEX1111

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.62 mm
Material: Rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: RD512SQ
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and flying monotourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Calfskin strap with deployment clasp

Limited edition: 28 pieces
Availability: At Roger Dubuis boutiques only
Price: CHF195,000 (excluding taxes)

For more information, visit RogerDubuis.com.

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic.

Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy.

Initial thoughts

The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration.

This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., but this arguably distinguishes itself by virtue of the craftsmanship in its execution.

An Arthurian winter landscape

Launched a decade ago, the Knights of the Round Table series has become a hallmark of the Geneva brand. The watches all share a dial bearing miniature figures inspired the Arthurian legend with 12 knights at a round table that serve as hour markers. Over the years, the brand has debuted several iterations of the concept, from an edition with Celtic-inspired aesthetic to a futuristic take with polygonal knights.

The focal point are the dozen intricately-detailed knights circling the dial, standing around an ice-covered lake with its surface cracking, the knights are portrayed as ready to do battle with the evil beneath. 

Each knight is a micro-sculpture standing just 6 mm high, cast individually in 18k rose gold using moulds created from 3D scans of resin prototypes. Once cast, each figure is hand engraved, resulting in a unique pose and attire for every figure. In all, the knights require three days of work to complete.

The periphery and base of the dial is transparent blue glass created using the Murano method. According to Roger Dubuis, obtaining the right shade of blue required nearly six months of research and development. The glass also forms the base of the protruding ice blocks, each of which is topped with white biscuit porcelain from Limoges to simulate the cracked lake surface.

The Knights of the Round Table retains the brand’s distinctive, triple-lug 45 mm Excalibur case with its recognisable notched bezel and crown.

Described as “Titanium Damascus”, the case material is similar to Timascus, a popular alloy for high-end custom knives. It is essentially a combination of two titanium alloys patterned welded together and then acid etched, resulting in a wood grain appearance derived from the different properties of each alloy. As a consequence of the titanium case, the watch is lighter than past editions of the same model in precious metals.

The bezel, on the other hand, is a single-alloy titanium and polished. It sits on the raised sapphire crystal, creating a narrow window below the bezel and around the dial. And the crown is also titanium, but inlaid with blue Murano glass.

Inside is the in-house cal. RD 821, an automatic movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. It’s fitted with a rotor open worked to form a geometric motif that’s inspired by Gothic stained glass windows.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus”
Ref. RDDBEX1058

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Titanium Damascus
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. RD821
Functions: Hour and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Leather strap with folding clasp 

Limited edition: 28 pieces
Availability: At Roger Dubuis boutiques only
Price: 503,000 Singapore dollars (equivalent to US$374,000)

For more information, visit Rogerdubuis.com.

One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph.

A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant.

Initial thoughts

Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial.

But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph.

The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richard Mille. But the RD780 in the Excalibur is arguably more sophisticated, particularly with its inclined balance wheel, digital counter, and unusual chronograph construction that has the levers on the back but the column wheel visible on the dial. In short, while the Excalibur chronograph isn’t for everyone in terms of design, the movement is undeniably interesting and certainly lives up to the price tag.

An integrated chronograph

The Flyback Chronograph represents the latest addition to the Excalibur Spider collection, which started with the Double Tourbillon model in 2015 and is characterised by skeletonised carbon composite cases that are a nod to lightweight sports cars. Like other models in the line-up, the chronograph retains the openworked styling on both the case and triple lugs, as well as the notched ceramic bezel. The case is carbon composite and measures 45 mm in diameter, making it quite large on the wrist. 

Stylishly designed, the dial has double scales on its periphery: an inner flange for tachymeter scale, while the outer flange carries the a minute track with alternating white and red accents. And on the outermost edge beyond the minute track is a ring bearing the rhodium-plated, hex nut-shaped hour markers filled with Super-Luminova. The white gold hour and minute hands are likewise openworked, filled with Super-Luminova at the tips and outlined in red. 

At its heart lies the new RD780, an in-house movement. Besides a flyback chronograph, the RD780 features both a column-wheel and vertical clutch, while having a power reserve of 72 hours thanks to twin barrels visible through the open-worked dial. The movement also incorporates two patent-pending innovations — one for the chronograph’s seconds hand and the other for the 120° Rotating Minute Counter (RMC).

The first patent concerns the clutch mechanism known as the Second Braking System (SBS), which improves the stability of the chronograph seconds hand and reduces any stuttering during start, stop, or reset. In the SBS, the brake is directly mounted on one of the two arms that operate together to engage or disengage the vertical clutch. When the chronograph is stopped, these two arms lift the vertical clutch to disengaging it, while the brake simultaneously prevents the seconds hand from moving.

An exploded view of the RD780

The 120° RMC enables the elapsed minutes to be read without a conventional sub-dial. The minute display features three rotating arms carrying the digits “0”, “1”, and “2” respectively. The arms rotate and progress along the outer scale bearing the second digit of the minutes.

The 120° Rotating Minute Counter (RMC)

In addition to the chronograph-related features, the RD780 also sports an inclined balance wheel. Also found in other Excalibur models, the balance wheel is inclined at 12 degrees from the horizontal. According to the brand, this set up better compensates for gravitational errors, while increasing the inertia of the balance. This approach is not unique to Roger Dubuis and has been employed by other respected names, including Greubel Forsey, which installed similar inclined balance wheels in several of its watches, indicating the concept has technical merit.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
Ref. RDDBEX1046

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 16.1 mm
Material: Carbon composite and ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: RD780
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and flyback chronograph with 120° Rotating Minute Counter (RMC)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hours (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Only at Roger Dubuis boutiques
Price: US$101,500 

For more, visit Rogerdubuis.com.

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama.

Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier.

The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs.

A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel

Initial thoughts

Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch.

Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of the rest a polished and rounded form. The trademark Roger Dubuis star-shaped bridge, for example, has been made more sculptural and entirely mirrored. The result still has looks like an Excalibur, but one that’s different, with greater depth in its movement.

The Sorayama edition also sports several features that are new for the brand, such as the fully-polished titanium bracelet equipped with a quick-release mechanism for easy interchangeability with a strap.

At US$64,500, the 28-piece Sorayama edition is reasonably priced, both when compared against high-end, sporty skeleton watches as well as the brand’s other offerings. In fact, it costs less than the Excalibur Spider Pirelli, which also had a titanium case but lacked the bracelet.

The titanium bracelet is comprised of rounded polished links that echo Mr Sorayama’s robots

Sculptural mechanics

The case dimensions of the Sorayama edition are identical to that of the standard model, so it’s a wide 42 mm in diameter but thin on the wrist. It also lives up to its sporty looks with a water resistance rating of 100 m.

Even though the case has been given the Sorayama treatment with its many mirror-polished surfaces, the key feature is the movement. Already airy in its standard form due to the slender, minimal bridges, the RD720SQ within the new Monobalancier contrasts with the dense, intricate appearance of most automatic skeleton movement, like that in the Royal Oak Extra-Thin Openworked for instance. And thanks to the Sorayama makeover, the movement in the new Monobalancier is even more sleekly skeletonised.

Here the bridges stand out even more than on the standard model, with the centrepiece being the five-armed star that spans the dial. With its raised, contoured profile and mirror-polished surface, the star bridge gains even greater contrast against the rest of the movement.

Perhaps the most recognisable element of Roger Dubuis’ design, the star-shaped bridge is a notable feature as figurative bridges are uncommon in modern-day skeleton watches, which tend to be either traditionally engraved or highly mechanical in appearance. A similarly interesting but perhaps more sophisticated implementation of the figurative bridge are the Roman numerals that form the base plate of Cartier’s skeleton movements.

Next to the bridge is the redesigned micro-rotor that now takes the form of a turbine with densely spaced blades. Also a “mystery” rotor since its weighted half is hidden, the micro-rotor will create a near-hypnotic visual effect when its spins freely (only in the direction that doesn’t wind the movement), which certainly adds to the hyper-modern aesthetic of the watch.

In terms of technical performance, the RD720SQ ticks all the boxes. It runs at 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz, a high frequency that’s suited to a sports watch. Notably, the power reserve is a generous 72 hours. And as is usual for Roger Dubuis, the movement has been decorated in an attentive, careful fashion – albeit with the aid of hand-held mechanised tools – to qualify for the Poincon de Geneve hallmark of quality.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier
Ref. RDDBEX1013

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: RD720SQ
Functions: Hours and minutes seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 28 pieces
Availability: Starting in Japan before arriving in other countries
Price: US$64,500, or 93,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit rogerdubuis.com.

Known for its bold, big, and skeletonised watches, Roger Dubuis is paring back its extravagant style – just slightly – with two smaller, 39 mm versions of the Excalibur Spider. Limited to 88 pieces in each guise, the Excalibur Spider 39 mm retains the brand’s signature Celtic-cross flying tourbillon and the open-worked case of the lightweight Spider series.

In addition to the twin Spider models, the new 39 mm size also includes an edition created in collaboration with Italian tyre maker Pirelli, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli that’s limited to just 28 watches.

Initial thoughts

With the same aesthetic found on earlier Excalibur watches, which were either 45 mm or 47 mm, the new 39 mm models are practical rather than innovative. And the RD510SQ skeleton flying tourbillon movement already exists, found inside the 36 mm Excalibur watches for women.

What’s new is the 39 mm case, which makes the Excalibur substantially more wearable. The new case is undoubtedly a commercial decision, since the line between watches for each gender gets increasingly fuzzy.

The Excalibur Spider 39 mm Pirelli

More women now want larger watches, while men sometimes revert to case sizes that are more old-school 20th century than 21st. During the online launch of the 39 mm models, Roger Dubuis chief executive Nicola Andreatta noted that the 36 mm Excalibur watches were a surprise hit amongst male clients in Japan, despite being marketed as ladies’ watches.

The 39 mm Excalibur Spider fills a sweet spot without reinventing the wheel. So if you’re a fan of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur but have long found them too large, the 39 mm models are worthy of of consideration.

Downsized

The standard 39 mm Excalibur Spider is offered in two case styles: titanium or pink gold with white accents.

The more masculine of the two, the titanium version has a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coated case middle with rubber inlays, and a brushed titanium bezel. It’s a subtle fusion of titanium and rubber, making it the most understated of the trio.

More feminine but not specifically a ladies’ watch is the version in pink gold with white rubber inlay. It’s accented with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on the open-worked ceramic flange, while doing away with the honeycomb mesh found on the other models. The result is a more flamboyant and less technical appearance. This makes more of a statement than the other versions, and being precious metal with diamonds, it is also the most expensive.

And the sportiest of the three is the Excalibur Spider Pirelli 39 mm. This has a blacked-out aesthetic that’s all DLC-coated titanium with red rubber accents.

Exclusive to Roger Dubuis boutiques, it is fitted to a strap inlaid with actual rubber from Pirelli tyres taken from the winning cars in auto races. Despite the small edition run and the Pirelli-rubber bonus, this costs exactly the same as standard Excalibur Spider in titanium.

All three watches are powered by the same RD510SQ, a hand-wound, in-house movement with its bridges and base-plate open-worked in Roger Dubuis’s trademark star motif. The centre of the largest star is the mainspring, while the smaller star underpins the flying tourbillon. And as with all of the brand’s mechanical watches, the Excalibur Spider 39 mm is hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal.

Key Facts and Price

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider 39 mm
Ref. RDDBEX0815 (titanium)
Ref. RDDBEX0816 (pink gold)
Ref. RDDBEX0817 (Pirelli edition)

Diameter: 39 mm
Material: Titanium or pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: RD510SQ
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Winding: Manual-winding
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with quick-release mechanism

Limited edition: 88 pieces each; Pirelli edition 28 pieces
Availability: Boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$159,500 (Pirelli and titanium), US$182,500 (pink gold)

For more, visit Rogerdubuis.com.

As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families.

Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon.

It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement. 

Vanguard Mykonos

Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe.

Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to the Kidz Horizon example.

Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”

The RD630 movement inside is self-winding and features a balance wheel inclined at 12 degrees from the plane of the movement – intended to minimise gravitational errors regardless of the position of the watch. And the sapphire bears the Kidz Horizon logo, along with “Unique Piece”.

The RD630 visible through the back, with the rotor shaped like a Lamborghini wheel rim

And the final watch is the Louis Moinet Metropolis “Kidz Horizon”, also donated by the same gentleman who contributed the Roger Dubuis.

It’s a time-only automatic in a steel case with an open-worked dial that reveals part of the movement, including the balance wheel at 11 o’clock. Underneath the open-worked chapter ring with the hour markers is a Neoralithe disc, a marble-like resin developed by a Swiss dial-maker.

The watch is powered by the LM45 movement, an automatic developed by Swiss specialist Concepto, which makes all of the brand’s movements.

Metropolis “Kidz Horizon”

Event and auction details

The Kidz Horizon gala dinner takes place on August 24, 2019 at the Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore. To purchase tables at the event, make a donation, or place an absentee bid on the watches, please contact Ms Christine Gwee via email, telephone at +65 6394 2329, or post at:

In the lead up to SIHH 2019, Roger Dubuis unveils a watch that drastically expands the use of carbon – in its myriad forms.

The Excalibur Spider Ultimate Carbon boasts a case, bracelet and movement bridges in carbon fibre composite, which also happens to be set with 195 baguette-cut diamonds for a bold juxtaposition of carbon and carbon.

It’s just the latest in Roger Dubuis’ inclination towards carbon composite, with last year’s Excalibur Carbon Spider becoming the first ever watch to have its movement’s base plate, bridges and upper cage of the tourbillon in carbon composite. Things got even more exotic with the Excalibur Aventador S “Arancio Argos” that had its case and movement bridges made of the same CSM-C composite used in Lamborghini automobiles.

Like its predecessors, the new Excalibur Spider Ultimate Carbon is a veritable hulk at 45mm in diameter but light on the wrist, being almost entirely carbon composite as well as hollowed out at the lugs and case band.

It is powered by the hand-wound RD508SQ, arguably the brand’s trademark movement with its bridges and base plate open-worked to form a star.

The star-shaped barrel and, more notably, the Celtic cross tourbillon carriage are both set with baguette-cut diamonds. The latter – diamonds on a carbon composite tourbillon – is a world-first.

The uppermost bridges on the front and back are carbon composite, shaving ounces off the weight of the movement. Despite the exotic material, the movement is still hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve, meaning it has passed the functional and decorative criteria the certification demands. In other words, every component of the movement that should be finely finished, is.

The movement is essentially the dial, which had rhodium-plated indexes and hands filled with white Super-Luminova that help legibility despite the complexity of the face.

The power-reserve indicator is at nine o’clock

And finally, the bracelet is made up of individual carbon composite links set with diamonds, but strengthen by a thin titanium band within the links, helping it retain the correct form and sturdiness.

Price and Availability

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Ultimate Carbon (ref. RDDBEX0675) is a limited edition of eight pieces, priced at SFr550,000, or S$865,000.