Having re-emerged in 2021 with the debut of his new brand and the launch of the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, Franc Vila is back with the FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”, a watch that challenges conventional notions of timekeeping with a good-humoured twist on the traditional day of the week display.

Leveraging its predecessor’s ultralight 42.5 mm titanium case and integrated flying tourbillon movement, the Today questions the difference between the days of the week, with a day roller that displays the word ‘today’ in a different font for each day. While over time the wearer might learn to associate particular fonts with particular days, the otherwise functional day roller is intended to be a reminder to not take things too seriously – today is all we have.

Initial thoughts

I didn’t really know what to expect the first time I stepped off the elevator into Mr Vila’s brightly lit, attic workshop in Geneva’s Saint Gervais neighbourhood. The workshop itself is part of the story, housed in what was once very likely home to a cabinotier, a term that refers to a watchmaker operating from a rooftop workshop once favoured by Genevan watchmakers of old, who preferred to work where they could get plenty of natural light.

Beyond the typical watchmaking equipment, and even some atypical equipment like a perlage machine with a mysterious past, the workshop is packed with contemporary art from Mr Vila’s personal collection. Talking with him about these sources of inspiration gave me a new perspective on his work. In many ways he is the living embodiment of what makes independent watchmaking so appealing: the passionate visionary behind the product.

Mr Vila personally decorates the boxes in which his watches are delivered.

That vision translates into a distinctive product. Beyond its design, one of the most compelling things about the Today is its extraordinary feel on the wrist, thanks to its lightweight, grade 5 titanium construction, which involves a one-piece case and movement.

While 55 g is not a record-breaking figure, it feels lighter than it is on account of its fairly large 42.5 mm diameter and its thickness of nearly 14 mm. This creates a pleasing tension between the visual and tactile experience of wearing the watch; it has a great deal of presence but feels almost weightless.

There’s not much to the dial beyond a chapter ring, and the visual focus is very much on the FVF1 movement first seen in the C2 Superligero. Mr Vila contracts out the fabrication of the components, but he and his small team do the finishing and assembly in his central Geneva workshop.

The movement features a 2.5 Hz flying tourbillon and runs for up to 100 hours. Functionally, the FVF1 features a day/night indicator and a heptagonal roller that displays the day of the week, but in the Today edition the movement has been given a blued finish and the roller has been repurposed into a tiny work of contemporary art.

The Today is priced at CHF165,000, which feels about right for what it is. The elaborate design, in particular the monocoque case and movement, gives it a look and feel all its own. And considering how few will be made, it could hardly cost much less and be viable to make.

Living for today

The “Today” roller is a whimsical complication that reminds me of watches like the Rolex Day-Date 36 “Puzzle,” the Haldimann H8, and the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA Day & Night Tourbillon; watches that could have easily displayed the time or date, but made a statement by not doing so. This way of thinking won’t appeal to everyone, but it’s not meant to.

There will always be collectors that view watchmaking exclusively through the lens of function; this Landesian thinking holds that the quality of a watch is a function of its precision. Indeed, the quest for precision is one of the most romantic aspects of watchmaking and remains a key pillar of marketing for the industry.

In contrast, the Today questions the need to know the time at all. But unlike the Haldimann and Romain Jerome efforts that came before it, the Today does, in fact, display the time, which I think is a reasonable concession to convenience.

Instead, the heptagonal day-of-the-week roller at twelve o’clock has been modified so that each of its seven sides indicates the same day: today. To spice things up, the lettering is given a different font for each day, as if in acknowledgement that even though it’s always today, every day is different.

A watch like this could easily come across as a gimmick, but it feels authentic coming from Franc Vila. More than just a device for keeping time, the Today is a personal statement, which pushes it firmly into the realm of art.

And like any highly personal piece of art, it will appeal most to those who resonate with the ideas shared in the work and who, in this case, want a wearable reminder to live in the moment.

A monocoque movement

Regardless of how one feels about the metaphysical statement the Today is making, the watchmaking on display is expressive and well done. But it’s impossible to talk about the movement without also talking about the case since they are one and the same.

Similar in concept to the Richard Mille RM 27-02 and RM 27-03, the mid-case and baseplate of the Today are made as a single piece. Machined from a single block of grade 5 titanium, the one-piece case and movement reduces weight while improving structural integrity.

The blue-treated titanium mainplate is visible at the mid-case.

This construction also contributes to the Today’s striking design, which features a blued finish visible inside and out. The exterior surface is protected by a polished titanium outer case with skeletonised lugs.

The entire construction is satisfyingly transparent; the case back itself is a single piece of sapphire crystal. It’s unusual to see a comparatively brittle material like sapphire screwed directly to the case, and the edge-to-edge crystal provides a striking effect that complements the light, airy design. Just leave the tightening of the screws to the professionals.

And it is really light, just under 55 grams, putting the Today firmly in ultralight territory. It doesn’t set any records, but it doesn’t need to; that’s not what the watchmaking of FVF is all about. Rather, the idea was to create a piece of mechanical contemporary art that is also effortless to wear. In this dimension, at least, Mr Vila has succeeded, because it feels like it could hardly be any lighter.

Functionally and aesthetically, the Today packs a punch with a 100-hour power reserve, a flying tourbillon, and a fascinating piston-style pusher with a coilover return spring for adjusting the day roller.

The latter is a pure expression of Mr Vila’s taste, and turns what would otherwise be a forgettable piece of metal into a key part of the design and the wearer’s interaction with the watch. Advancing the day roller with one’s thumb is a tactile treat; the multimodal feedback of seeing and feeling the large coil spring compress gives the watch a feeling of industrial sturdiness.

A view of the coiled return spring for setting the day display

The rest of the movement is open-worked and airy under a large domed sapphire crystal, and the train wheels are secured by a large V-shaped bridge visible through the case back. Though given a blue coating to match the rest of the movement, the bridge is made of German silver, which is a nice nod to tradition.

As if the flying tourbillon, day roller, and pusher piston were not enough, the movement contains a three-dimensional enamelled day/night indicator in the shape of a globe. Though the purpose of this feature is mainly to prevent the day from switching at noon rather than midnight, it stands out as a beautiful detail.

A highly conceptual watch like the Today is not purely an expression of hand finishing, but that said the FVF1 movement is finished to a very high standard, especially the downward sweeping arms of the tourbillon cage. The steelwork is uniformly straight-grained and the bridges feature polished bevels.

One area that could be improved is the application of inner angles; some are present, and done well, while other similar corners are rounded. The focal point, however, is the day roller, which is executed with aplomb; the straight graining is flawless and the screw heads gleam.

Closing thoughts

Let’s not pretend that everyone can get onboard with the idea of a watch, especially a watch that is finely made and priced accordingly, that intentionally obscures the passage of time. Few watchmakers have been daring enough to tread these waters.

But the Today makes a compelling case for itself. Looking at the Today on the wrist, I can almost hear Mr Vila’s voice, imploring me to live in, and for, the present moment. Those who appreciate this philosophy are rewarded with an extraordinarily comfortable piece of wrist-worn mechanical art.

Key facts and price

FVF Genève FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FVF1
Functions: Hours, minutes, day-night indicator, modified day of the week display, and 60-second tourbillon regulator
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 100 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Franc Vila
Price: CHF165,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit fvfgeneve.com.

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do.

FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge.

Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style.

NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear.

The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve

Rising from the ashes

Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept.

A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planètaire in rose gold and carbon fibre composite. Image – Phillips

Typical of the prevailing style in those heady days, the watches were big, bold, complicated, and often featured generous amount of carbon fibre. Mr Vila’s signature creation then was an oval watch with a dial shaped like the outline of a skull. An industry observer once joked it resembled a monkey’s head on a strap.

But as with many independent brands of that period, boom turned to bust. Just after its 10th anniversary, Mr Vila was booted out of the brand. Business had slowed, partially as a result of a commodities market slump that drained much of the demand for extravagant watches. The always cheerful Mr Vila, however, reemerged in 2018 with his new brand – and a much improved watch.

The flying tourbillon at six

Initial thoughts

I saw Mr Vila often during his tenure at his original brand. I appreciated him as a person but I had no inclination towards his watches. I didn’t like the designs and was mystified that they sold so well. More recently, I was surprised when I first saw images of the FVF1 because it looked nothing like his past designs. It looked so much better.

Then I managed to examine the prototype of the FVF1 in detail late last year. I was even more surprised at how impressed I was. To go from the peculiar ovoid case to this was a big leap and a huge step forward.

The FVF1 is smartly designed and sharply executed. Evidently attention has been paid to the design and care lavished on the finishing. The skeletonised movement is architectural, airy, and attractively styled, while the complications are intriguing and also symmetrical thanks to the vertical gear train.

Crucially, the quality of execution is high. The decoration is on point and even slightly artisanal in a few details. The gently arched tourbillon cage, for instance, is a notable example of fine detailing, as is the large, V-shaped bridge on the back.

And then there’s a price, which is CHF125,000, or about the same in US dollars. For a skeleton tourbillon with an proprietary movement finished to a high level that’s certainly reasonably value.

The biggest drawback of the FVF1 is nothing intrinsic to the watch itself, but instead the historical baggage that comes with the brand. Anyone who remembers the first-generation Franc Vila watches might frown at something else with the same, or similar, name. But the FVF1 is tangibly better and so much better – it is an excellent watch.

A design evolution

Measuring 42.5 mm wide and 13.9 mm high, the FVF1 is a large watch but one that doesn’t look or feel as big as it measures because of its transparency and lightness.

The lugs are short, so much so that the strap almost touches the case, while the crystal is extremely tall, accounting for almost half the thickness. And the case is thin thanks to the large movement, and entirely in titanium.

In terms of design, the FVF1 is original. Certain elements bring to mind other watches, but the sum of the parts doesn’t resemble anything else. At the same time, it has a slightly retro feel; the FVF1 looks like something from the mid 2000s, but refined and enhanced.

That said, the ghost of the monkey’s head lives inside the FVF1, albeit in a subtle manner. The twin pointed bridges on either side of the tourbillon form the recognisable shape, which is echoed on the back. And there the bridges form several Vs, large and small.

Held in place by six screws, the sapphire crystal on the back extends to the edge of the case

The case is constructed in a simple yet clever manner that maximises the view of the movement, while being modular enough to allow for customisation of individual case components. This construction gives the FVF1 its characteristic airy appearance and lightness.

It’s essentially a ring containing the movement, which is then enclosed by a domed sapphire crystal on the front and a wide, edge-to-edge crystal on the back. Lastly, a pair of open-worked brancards are secured to each flank to create the lugs.

The result is a lightweight case with enough details to make it interesting. At the same time, the case is minimal enough that the movement is presented to maximum effect. That said, while the domed crystal is an appealing feature on paper, it does leave the watch looking slightly bulbous from certain angles.

The brancards are each secured by four screws, two on the side and another two on the back

Unusual complications

Being a designer rather than a watchmaker, Mr Vila turned to a constructor in Geneva to create the movement inside the FVF1. Similarly, the movement parts are produced and finished by specialists in the city and the surrounding region.

The respected but unnamed constructor did well in arranging the mechanical components to create a distinctive aesthetic, while exaggerating certain components for visual effect. One example is the bridge for the keyless works that’s been open-worked so it resembles an expanding arm with a clamp at the end.

The movement is also technically interesting. With a single barrel it manages a 100-hour power reserve – that’s four days – and incorporates a novel complication, a day-of-the-week roller, as well as a day and night sphere.

The fancy bridge for the keyless works

The movement is laid out vertically, as is usually the case for tourbillons that sit at six o’clock. Starting with the mainspring at 12 o’clock, the flows downwards to the flying tourbillon regulator at six, with the complications and time display sitting in-between. As a result, the movement has a pleasing visual balance on both sides and almost perfect symmetry on the back.

The day roller is one of the key elements of the design, albeit being a complication of modest practicality. Sitting inside a large frame with a conventional gear at one end and a star-shaped wheel at the other, the roller is where the brand name would be on a conventional watch. This means the FVF branding is subtle, having been relegated to 12 o’clock.

Because the roller is long and tall, it becomes a major structural element of the movement. It sits some distance over the barrel, creating strong visual depth for the movement. However, that means the hands have to sit high up to clear the roller, which explains the highly domed crystal.

The day display is also impressive because of its excessive execution. It sits in a disproportionately large frame that’s resembles a tiny machine in miniature.

The frame sits on four feet at each of its corners; each foot is secured by a pin and two screws

The huge spring piston visible at nine o’clock is actually the actuation mechanism for the day roller. It’s an elementary mechanism, but done such that the spring piston forms a key part of the movement’s architecture. The size of the spring piston also means it serves as a visual balance for the keyless works at three.

Pressing the button on the case side advances the roller by one step

Just below the day roller is a rotating hemisphere that functions as a day-night indicator. Covered in lacquer – yellow for day and blue for night – the hemisphere makes one rotation every 24 hours, moving in tandem with the hands.

Of all the elements of the movement, this is one of the least elaborate. I would have preferred something more artisanal in nature and more monochromatic in colour. For instance, a hand-engraved sphere in a single colour with the motif to differentiate between the two halves of the day.

Similarly, the open-worked hands are simple, perhaps a bit too simple. Although legibility is excellent and the minimalist hands don’t get in the way of admiring the movement, they are too plain for the design.

The most complex mechanism in the movement is the flying tourbillon at six. It’s a straightforward tourbillon with a three-armed cage containing a basic Glucydur balance. In terms of function it performs well, but aesthetically it can be better.

Relative to the size of the movement the tourbillon is small and would certainly be more attractive with a larger diameter. And a screwed or variable inertia balance would equally contribute to more appealing aesthetics.

But the tourbillon is saved by its cage, which is surprisingly elaborate, albeit in a discreet manner.

Only from the side is is the curved profile of the cage apparent. Each of the arms gently flow downwards, which certainly makes finishing them more of a challenge than if they were straight.

Despite the unusual form, the cage is finished well. It’s all mirror polished, right down to the bevelling on the arms and the countersink for the central axis. Even the undersides of each half of the cage are mirror polished.

The subtly curved cage and the bridge for the keyless works (lower right), both of which contrast against the frosted, dark grey base plate

The rest of the watch is equally well finished. The decoration is comparable to movements bearing the Poincon de Geneve, made by establishment brands like Vacheron Constantin and Chopard. In other words, the calibre has been decorated by hand with a mix of electric and manual tools.

While the finishing is fine, the architecture of the movement is almost industrial with its over-engineered elements, exemplified by the day roller. This creates contrast in colour and texture that is appealing.

The spring piston, for instance, sits right next to a steel bridge that’s straight grained on top, bevelled along all its edges, and secured by two screws with chamfered slots and edges. And the steel bridge in turn sits on the base plate that’s entirely frosted, giving it a dark grey matte finish.

Over on the back, the landscape is less densely packed. Instead it’s dominated by a large, thick bridge that holds the underside of the barrel, centre wheel, and tourbillon.

It’s cleanly finished with a straight grained top along with the requisite polished, bevelled edges. But it also incorporates three sharp, inward angles along its bevelling, which add an element of artisanal hand finishing to the whole.

The lower point of the “V” features twin inward angles along the bevelling on its inner edges

The thickness of the bridge is because it serves as part of the base plate, but that also means it sports broad, polished anglage

One element on the back I wish was done differently is the engraving around the jewel bearing for the barrel. It’s neatly milled but feels too basic

Concluding thoughts

Surprising in many respects, the FVF1 is smartly conceived and decorated finely enough to qualify as well finished. It’s a compelling watch and one that Mr Vila should have started with in 2005. But better late than never, and now that he has completed the FVF1, I look forward to his next chapter.

Key facts and price

Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: Titanium case with steel case back
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FVF1
Functions: Hours, minutes, day-night indicator, day of the week display, and tourbillon regulator
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 100 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: Eight pieces
Availability: Direct from Franc Vila
Price: CHF125,000

For more, visit Francvilafounder.com.

A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero.

Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day.

Initial thoughts

When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself).

But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing.

The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de Geneve-certified movements of Roger Dubuis or Vacheron Constantin.

Mr Vila is only making two of these a year, so his comeback is on a modest scale, but he’s certainly doing so in style.

More subtle

While no longer over the top, the FVF1 C2 still makes a statement. It’s large at 42.5 mm in diameter and it measures 13.9 mm high. The thickness, however, is overstated as much of it is due to the domed crystal and back, which replace both the bezel and case back ring.

The case is instead a titanium middle with sapphire crystals secured to the front and back with adhesive and gaskets. Because of the minimal case metal, it is also lightweight.

The domed crystals on the front and back also provide a good view of the movement from all angles. A number of details emerge after examining the movement, including the intricate bridge for the keyless works as well as the fired enamel globe for the day and night display.

The mechanics are arranged in a near-symmetrical manner on the front and back, but details like the day display make it interesting. And the movement boasts an impressively long, 100-hour power reserve on a single barrel.

Secured by a massive, mechanical-looking bridge, the day of the week display is particularly unusual. It indicates the day on a seven-sided roller that can also be adjusted via the pusher at nine of o’clock. The pusher in turn actuates a “piston” that rotates the roller.

The trademark form of the Franc Vila dial is discreetly incorporates into the flange around the tourbillon carriage

On the back, the Franc Vila emblem – a triangle that’s a stylised “FV” – forms the main plate. It’s finished with straight graining on the top and wide, mirror polished bevelling.

Notably, the main plate incorporates a trio of inward angles on its bevelling, a pleasing extra in terms of hand finishing.

All photos courtesy Watch4Moi.

Key facts and price

Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: Titanium case with steel case back
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FVF1
Functions: Hours, minutes, day-night indicator, day of the week display, and tourbillon regulator
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 100 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Availability: Direct from Franc Vila
Price: CHF125,000

For more, visit Francvilafounder.com.