The recently launched 222 in steel may be the watch of the hour, but Vacheron Constantin continues to build out the Overseas line with a facelift for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V that gets new dials in burgundy and pink gold, both with pale blue accents. While the new pair are built on old bones, they remain competitive and appealing thanks to the extremely slim profile, great dials and well-appointed bracelets.

Initial thoughts

While the fad for integrated bracelet sport watches has cooled off, the genre remains remain popular and new contenders emerge every day, compelling established players to reinvent themselves. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is definitely an established player in this segment and competitive with most of the market, at least for now.

The thin movement inside has a proven track record by virtue of its age (the basic architecture debuted in 1967). Moreover, the Overseas perpetual also deserves praise for being very good looking, especially with the new burgundy dial. The blue accents work surprisingly well against the burgundy, though less so against pink gold.

That said, the age of the movement is significant. It was easy to ignore the movement when the same was true of its peers. That is changing; Audemars Piguet overhauled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an all-new movement earlier this year, which features an entirely crown-set calendar. While I think the difficulty of setting perpetual calendars with pushers is exaggerated, it’s daunting to many owners.

New Face on an Old Case

Vacheron Constantin pairs the white gold case with dial that’s burgundy lacquer over a sunburst base with a colour-matched chapter ring, along with white gold hands and dial furniture. Even the moon phase disk, which is 18k white gold, receives a burgundy finish, with pinpricks of white metal shining through to form constellations.

The other is tone-on-tone – or “pink on pink” in vintage watch parlance – with golden lacquer over a solid 18k pink gold dial base, pink gold hands, and a pink gold moon phase disk.

Both dials sport striking pale-blue accents during the day, a reoccurring motif for the reference, and a similar blue glow by night from Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices.

True to its name, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is svelte at only 8.1 mm thick. That undercuts the obvious competition – the Nautilus perpetual calendar (8.42 mm) from Patek Philippe  and the recently updated Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar (9.5 mm) by Audemars Piguet – while maintaining an acceptable 50 m of water resistance.

Proportionately, it looks thinner still thanks to the large 41.5 mm case. Height aside, case and bracelet are little different from any other Overseas model. While it’s difficult to judge finishing from press images, and impossible from renders, we’ve covered other flavours of this reference before, and they held up in the metal, especially the bracelets.

The screw down is the only missing feature of note. Most else, including the soft iron movement ring (to ward off magnetism) and bracelet amenities carry over from other Overseas models. That includes tool-less extension built into the clasp, hot-swap-ability, and every single link being removable.

Both models are delivered with matching folding clasps in the same metal as the case along with two straps, one in white rubber and another rubber strap catered to the dial, burgundy for the white gold model, and dark blue for the pink gold.

Movement

The perpetual calendar mechanism is a cam-lever affair born in the 1980s (though it’s classical enough it could have just as easily hailed from the 1880s) that also powered the brand’s other perpetual calendar complications of the period. It is also traditionally high-end; the Poincon de Geneve guarantees the calendar is of high-end construction, using no wire springs and fully finished – which isn’t always the case, even at this price point.

The calendar can be set in a few minutes with a stylus: one pusher advances the day, date and month in sync, three others correct the day, month and moon individually.

The single 48-month display is slimmer and simpler than 12-month displays, though less legible. A 59-tooth moon phase disk is another limitation, which will accrue a noticeable error in less than three years. The increasingly common 135-tooth approach only errs after 122 years.

Underneath the perpetual calendar module is a familiar face, the cal. 1120 QP/1 that was originally the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920. It was the thinnest automatic on the market when it debuted in 1967, designed to meet the needs of the big three: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin.

While the 40 hour power reserve and 2.75 Hz beat rate are quaint today, it remains extremely slim. While not the most elegantly styled movement, it is has a distinctive and sophisticated architecture. Moreover, it is well decorated. The 22k gold rotor is a particular highlight with its well executed compass rose motif. The quartet of roller jewels supporting the rotor (one of the secrets to its small stature) can produce odd sounds, but it’s far from the harshest rotor I’ve heard.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Ref. 4300V/220G-H151 (Burgandy dial)
Ref. 4300V/220R-H144 (Pink gold dial)

Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 8.10 mm
Material: 18k pink or white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 1120 QP/1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar with moon phase, hours, minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: 18k gold bracelet or alligator strap, both options accompanied by a spare rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$120,000; or CHF119,000

For more information, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Long a pillar of Vacheron Constantin’s line-up, Métiers d’Art has usually been about figurative, decorative, and classical watches, with traditional motifs and techniques being a recurring theme. The Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” is, however, different in style from the usual Métiers d’Art offers, although its distinctive look is inspired by a one-off grand complication from 2021.

The Tribute to the Celestial is a combination of familiar elements, but executed in a surprising way. It’s centred on traditional techniques, namely the hand guilloche dial and gem-set case, but modern in approach and aesthetics. The palette is largely blue and almost monochromatic, while the guilloche forms a geometric, polygonal motif.

Initial thoughts

At a distance, the Tribute to the Celestial is not what you expect. Across a room, it looks like a shiny, all-blue watch that could be ceramic or another contemporary material. It also doesn’t reveal much detail. But up close the Tribute to the Celestial shows off lots of refined detailing; it’s a double dose of metiers d’art, engine turning and gem setting.

The primary metiers d’art on the Tribute to the Celestial is the guilloche on the dial that is done by hand in-house at Vacheron Constantin’s engine turning workshop. Instead of the common guilloche found on many watches, this employs straight lines at different angles to create a polygonal motif that forms a zodiac symbol, illustrating the versatility of an old-school straight-line engine.

The guilloche is subtle at arm’s length, and surprisingly, even the sapphires are. The case is set with 96 baguette-cut sapphires – a substantial number and weight of gemstones that exemplify another kind of artisanal craft. But surprisingly the watch is far from “bling”, it is relatively discreet and also very blue. The case sides are not set with sapphires, and look a little naked.

The design is actually derived from a one-off creation from 2021, the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart Leo Constellation Jewellery Watch. The earlier watch was similar in style, but much larger, more complicated, and way, way more expensive.

Movement wise, the Tribute to the Celestial is equipped with the familiar cal. 2160 that’s also found in several other Vacheron Constantin tourbillon models.

The cal. 2160 is mostly found in entry-level tourbillon models, like the FiftySix Tourbillon and Overseas Tourbillon, bualso in a handful of highly complicated watches. It’s a still a high-end, industrial-haute horlogerie calibre that lives up to the brand name. The peripheral rotor is a nice touch, and the tourbillon assembly is impressively hand finished.

The Tribute to The Celestial does well in terms of quality and execution. I have to think hard to find something amiss in terms of its tangible attributes.

That is, except for the dial. Although the quality of guilloche is excellent regardless of version, the design of each zodiac is uneven, at least in my eye. Some of the zodiac emblems are more attractive than others. Aries, Scorpio, and Pisces, for example, are beautifully executed.

Many of Vacheron Constantin’s watches are appealing for various reasons, but rarely are they priced well. The Tribute to The Celestial is priced well, almost to the point of being a value buy, at least in its category.

The retail price of about US$260,000 brings a tourbillon movement of solid quality, a good carat-weight of baguette-cut sapphires, and the guilloche dial that’s engine turned by hand. It’s still a big number, but relative to the overall price index of the luxury watch market, it is reasonable. And that is especially the case when compared with its 2021 inspiration.

Fine crafts

The design and theme of the Celestial were first employed on the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart Leo Constellation Jewellery Watch, a unique creation for an Asian client that premiered in 2021.

In the vein of past Vacheron Constantin grand complications, the Leo Constellation was double faced with a star chart on the back, and a minute repeater inside. The large, 45 mm case – it measured over 15 mm thick – was set with blue sapphires.

The Leo Constellation was large and expensive, with a price tag well into seven figures, while the new Celestial is wearable and affordable, relatively speaking.

The Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart Leo Constellation Jewellery Watch of 2021. Image – Vacheron Constantin

While the Leo Constellation was a single watch depicting the client’s zodiac sign, the Tribute to the Celestial is made up of 12 variants, each depicting one zodiac symbol. All dials are finished in the same way – traditional guilloche for the zodiac symbol, plus radial brushing and a metallic blue treatment. But not all of the zodiac symbols are equally appealing.

Aside from those mentioned above, Sagittarius and Libra are amongst the best looking. On the other hand, Leo looks like a bit like a large dog. In fact, it reminds me of a Tibetan mastiff, a breed of dog that is often groomed to look like a lion.

The guilloche is performed in the traditional way: a hand-operated straight-line engine that engraves lines on the dial while the guillocheur controls motion and pressure manually. Engraved one at a time, the lines then form the zodiac motif.

In other words, the position, angle, and depth of each line is the result of manual skill, making the polygonal motif all the more impressive. The zodiac symbols might seem simple from a distance, but they are anything but.

Guilloche by hand on an antique straight line engine. Image – Vacheron Constantin

Examining the zodiac symbol up close reveals the mastery of guilloche. The engraved lines, for instance, differ in depth and width in order to create shading and depth. Here, the lion’s face is made up of thicker, deeper lines than its mane.

Notably, each zodiac symbol also contains its corresponding constellation formed by an silvered line (that’s the result of a plating treatment) and accented with brilliant cut diamonds.

The case of the same style employed for other Metiers d’Art models, except here it’s been dressed up with baguette-cut sapphires. It’s a good size at 39 mm wide and almost 11 mm high, not too big and not too small, essentially just right.

The gemstones cover the bezel and top of the lugs, but also on the crown and buckle. The flanks of the case, however, are unadorned, which is a shame. Setting the case sides would have presumably raised the price significantly, so that is an acceptable compromise all things considered.

The cal. 2160 inside is a straightforward tourbillon movement, except for its winding mechanism. It features a peripheral winding mechanism that employs an arc-shaped weight in 22k to wind the barrel.

The automatic mechanism is also notable for having “Magic Lever” winding, a simple method of winding that is both efficient and flat. Originally invented by Seiko but now widely used by Swiss watchmakers, the Magic Lever occupies a fair amount of lateral space, but that’s not a constraint in a movement like this.

The automatic mechanism means a conventional rotor is done away with, leaving almost of the movement visible. The movement’s designers used this opportunity to give the cal. 2160 more interesting bridge shapes that have the flowing lines and angles more common on historical movements.

The 22k gold peripheral rotor is engine turned with a Maltese cross-inspired motif

The classical aspect of the movement is underlined by the Poinçon de Genève, a historical benchmark that was originally only concerned about aesthetics and decoration but now expanded to include useful, practical aspects like timekeeping and water resistance.

The Geneva Seal means that the finishing on the movement is excellent and thorough, with all of the details attended to. The quality of decoration is typical for this segment of industrial-haute horlogerie, and comparable to Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and the like.

The Poincon de Geneve on the bridge for the Magic Lever

That said, the cal. 2160 a little of a missed opportunity in terms of decoration, especially since the movement styling can easily accommodate more decorative elements. This is all the more relevant since the Tribute to the Celestial is a higher-priced watch; the entry-level FiftySix Tourbillon, on the other hand, is perfectly acceptable with good-enough decoration. The inward angles along the bevelling, for example, could be sharper, while some of the flat steel parts could be black polished.

In fairness, however, the decoration on the front makes up for some of that. The detailing on the tourbillon assembly is outstanding. Take the Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon cage, which is about as good as it gets. The arms of the cage are black polished, with polished bevels containing inward angles, while the tourbillon bridge is rounded and mirrored.

Concluding thoughts

The Tribute to the Celestial is not for everyone, but for the enthusiast who appreciates such things, it is done extremely well. The intrinsic attractiveness lies not only in the materials and decoration, but also the unusual aesthetics. The fact that the price is sensible – if a six-figure watch can be sensible – adds to the appeal.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”
Ref. 96007A/000G-H042 to -H053 (12 references)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: 18k white gold, set with baguette-cut blue sapphires on bezel, lugs, and crown
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not water resistant

Movement: Cal. 2160 
Functions: Hours and minutes, tourbillon with seconds indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp set with sapphires

Limited edition: No, but limited production
Availability: Only at Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: Approximately US$265,000

For more information, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Continuing with its 250th anniversary special editions in fine style, not long after the Temporis Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin’s latest is the 12-piece-strong Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”. Each watch is dedicated to symbol of the zodiac, with the respective constellation rendered in hand guilloché on the dial, while the case is set with baguette-cut sapphires totalling almost 4 ct.

Fortunately available individually instead of only as a set, each “Tribute to The Celestial” watch is powered by the cal. 2160, an automatic movement with a tourbillon and novel peripheral winding mechanism.

Initial thoughts

Vacheron Constantin (VC) has long combined complications and gemstones, though in a relatively low-key manner since such watches were rarely announced publicly. The series of Overseas Perpetual Calendars set with coloured stones, for example, was never widely publicised.

The “Tribute to The Celestial” demonstrates what VC can do with its in-house guilloche workshop and gem setting (which is probably not done in house). The watches are striking and beautiful, though certainly only for fans of blue, and only blue.

Despite the gemstones and guilloche, the watches look surprisingly modern, likely due to the colour as well as the geometric nature of the engine turning. Though the guilloche is done the old school way on a hand-operated machine, the engraved zodiac symbols look nothing like traditional guilloche.

Not all the zodiac emblems are equally attractive, at least in pictures. The straight line guilloche seems better suited to some symbols than others. Scorpio, Pisces, and Libra, for instance, seem to be more appealingly represented than Leo.

Each of the watches is already set with a good weight of blue sapphires – 96 stones, including on the crown – but the case flanks are naked, leaving it feeling a little incomplete. Each of these watches are already expensive, so setting sapphires on the case sides would make them even more so, but it would have been a finishing touch.

Engine turning

Each of the dozen “Tribute to The Celestial” watches corresponds to a zodiac symbol that is represented with its respective constellation on the dial. The constellations are all executed in a stylised manner, comprised of lines forming polygons that together create the zodiac figure, and finally accented with tiny, brilliant-cut diamonds to represent stars.

Each dial is a solid, 18k gold disc with solid gold hour markers

Despite the modern feel of the representation, each zodiac symbol is engraved via a traditional guilloche technique, namely on a hand-operated straight-line machine. This technique is more often associated with classical guilloche found on dials from the likes of Breguet and Voutilainen, but the zodiac dials demonstrate the versatility of the technique.

VC was one of the first brands to set up an in-house guilloche workshop, and it has since developed a diverse array of decorative techniques. The constellations on each dial illustrate the ability of VC’s engine turning artisans.

The metallic blue dial is complemented by a white gold case set with blue sapphires along the bezel, lugs, and crown. The sides of the case are not set with gemstones, though the folding clasp boasts a half-carat or so of blue sapphires.

The 12 watches are all powered by the same cal. 2160. Widely used by VC across its catalogue, the cal. 2160 is also found in the Overseas and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.

It’s a slim movement with a novel feature, a peripheral winding mechanism that has the rotor take the form of a narrow ring mounted around the calibre. This approach helps to minimise the thickness of the movement, resulting in a relatively thin case that’s just 10.7 mm high, which is reasonable given the extra thickness needed to accommodate the gemstone setting on the bezel.

The calibre has the tourbillon located at the usual six o’clock position, and the tourbillon cage takes the form of a Maltese cross. The cage is likely the most elaborately finished component of the movement, with each of its arms being open worked, mirror polished, and chamfered with inward angles.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”
Ref. 96007A/000G-H042 to -H053 (12 references)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: 18k white gold, set with baguette-cut blue sapphires on bezel, lugs, and crown
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not water resistant

Movement: Cal. 2160 
Functions: Hours and minutes, tourbillon with seconds indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 80hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp set with sapphires

Limited edition: No, but limited production
Availability: Only at Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: On request

For more information, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement.

An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner.

The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis

Initial thoughts

Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial.

Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque Bacchus – the mechanical approach is traditional. The construction of the movement is traditional, as is the decoration. While I am certain the movement execution is high quality, the grey finish lacks contrasts and arguably doesn’t do justice to the quality of finishing.

Although the chronograph on the front, instead of the back, is less traditional, this approach makes sense given the sapphire dial that reveals all of the details of the split-seconds chronograph. The split-seconds is classical in style, which gives the wearer even more to admire. And the construction is also clever, since the chronograph needs to be driven by the tourbillon.

As is usually the case for such watches, the Temporis is big, 45 mm wide and thick. Even though wearability is not ideal, that’s not necessarily a bad thing – such watches usually need to feel substantial enough for the level of complexity and price. In fact, I am certain the typical owner of such a watch would rather have it 45 mm than 37 mm.

Open-faced and complicated

“Openface” has been a recurring theme with Vacheron Constantin’s complications recently, but the Temporis deserves a see-through dial more than most. The wide sapphire dial features a trio of sub-dials arranged in an asymmetric manner: time at nine o’clock, elapsed minutes at two, and the constant seconds of the tourbillon cage at six.

The clear sapphire dial is actually two tone, each of the registers has a frosted sapphire chapter ring carrying the respective scales. The chapter rings in turn are ringed in pink gold that’s been applied via metal vapour deposition to the underside of the sapphire dial.

The dial reveals most of the finely shaped split-seconds chronograph works. The mechanism is traditional in form, with twin column wheels and a split-seconds controlled by a pair of pincers.

But because of the layered construction of the cal. 2757 S inside, the chronograph has a novel lateral clutch mechanism that engages with the tourbillon; in other words, when the chronograph is activated, it engages with the driving wheel of the tourbillon.

The layered construction also explains the thickness of the 18k pink gold case, which is 16.4 mm high. The case adopts the Traditionnelle style, with subtle Maltese cross elements integrated into the lugs.

The chronograph layer separated from the base movement

From the back, the cal. 2757 S is more familiar. It’s actually based on the cal. 2755, a minute repeating movement with tourbillon that’s been in Vacheron Constantin’s portfolio for some two decades.

The cal. 2757 S seen from the dial (left), and back

The base movement features a minute repeater with a “silent” centrifugal governor. Both the governor and hammers are visible on the back, along with the gongs that circle the movement. Also on the back is the power reserve indicator.

While past movements in the cal. 2755 family all featured a tourbillon, the cal. 2757 S is notable to having a spherical hairspring in the tourbillon. This is an ideal complement for the split-seconds chronograph under the dial, since the additional height required for the spherical hairspring provides the volume for the chronograph and vice versa.

A variation of the cylindrical hairsprings historically found in marine chronometers, the spherical hairspring has been employed in past Les Cabinotiers models, most notably in the Armillary Tourbillon. Its purpose is to improve chronometry as the spherical shape results in more concentric “breathing”, which improves isochronism and reduces positional variation.

The tourbillon assembly

Though the layout of the cal. 2757 S is familiar, it’s been decorated in a more modern manner. The bridges are frosted but outlined by raised borders that are straight grained. The borders are matched with relief markings on the bridges; then the Poinçon de Genève emblem and Maltese cross are in relief.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface
Ref. 9750C/000R-215C

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 16.4 mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not water resistant

Movement: Cal. 2757 S
Functions: Hours and minutes, split-seconds chronograph, minute repeater, tourbillon, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: ~58 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: On request

For more information, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

SJX recently visited Vacheron Constantin  and sat down with Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director, and head of speciality watchmaking, Jean-Marie Bouquin, to discuss the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch yet made.

Mr Bouquin led the development of Solaria, and assembled it, creating a wristwatch that’s a worthy follow-up to the most complicated portable timepiece ever, the Berkley Grand Complication that was launched just last year. That in turn broke the record set by Vacheron Constantin in 2015 with the ref. 57260 “Tivoli”.

They discussed the intricacies and innovation in the Solaria, including its modular “plug and play” perpetual calendar, and the implications for future Les Cabinotiers projects, as well as the novel star-tracking chronograph, and the benefits of using silicon for the spokes of the balance wheel. They also touched on the absence of a grande et petite sonnerie.

Vacheron Constantin (VC) continues its 270th anniversary festivities with its first minute-repeating sports watch, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface. In addition to the repeater, the manually wound movement also features a perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and rear-facing power reserve indicator.

All of this is housed in a titanium case rated to 30 m, which is a notable degree of water resistance for a chiming watch. This is also the first Overseas model with the “Openface” treatment, which pays homage to rock crystal dials found in vintage clocks and pocket watches with a clear sapphire dial exposing the perpetual calendar works.

Image – Vacheron Constantin

Initial Thoughts

It’s unusual, but a chiming sports watch makes sense considering the direction of consumer preferences for complications. That said, the minute repeater has been slow to make its way into sports watches, despite enjoying renewed popularity for the past few decades, due to the challenges of waterproofing the charging slide and preserving sound quality. This has created a perception of water resistance and sound being mutually exclusive, which has only recently been challenged.

Audemars Piguet was an early pioneer with water-resistant repeaters, and now Vacheron Constantin has entered the fray with a water-resistant minute-repeating integrated-bracelet sports watch of its own. While 30 m of water resistance is low compared to other models in the Overseas collection, it’s significant for a repeater.

According to user manuals for other similarly water resistant watches from Vacheron Constantin, “You may use your watch while swimming, provided you do not engage in any water sports that could cause impacts.” While few, if any, owners will take this watch swimming, a little peace of mind goes a long way with a watch like this.

As you’d expect for a sports watch, the dial is lumed. While some would argue this makes the repeater redundant, it’s nice to have options–and other overseas models have fairly weak lume, so I expect that to be the case here as well. Sports watch designs are also predisposed to larger sizes, and the Overseas Grand Complication’s 45 mm case is better proportioned than the Traditionnelle models powered by the same movement.

This watch also demonstrates that Vacheron Constantin is still committed to the Overseas line, despite the recent 222 focus. While naming this a “Grand Complication” is a stretch without a chronograph, it’s still an extremely complicated and impressive watch. It isn’t a limited edition or a unique piece, but production will be low due to the demanding movement. Vacheron Constantin has not been forthcoming with pricing, but it will certainly be in the mid-to-high six-figure range.

Movement

The cal. 2755 first debuted in 2007 inside a Traditionnelle case, though the movement family in general descends from 2005’s landmark Tour de L’Ile. Since then, Vacheron Constantin has created a highly modular ecosystem around it, similar to what Patek Philippe has done with its calibre R 27. While these movements are used extensively in unique pieces by Les Cabinotiers, the Overseas Grand Complication is not a Les Cabinotiers model.

The Les Cabinotiers-Grande Complication “Bacchus” uses a related movement, cal. 2755 GC16. Note the similarities in dial layout. Image – Vacheron Constantin

For the Overseas Grand Complication Openface, the 2755  has been given a new industrial look with a dark grey NAC PVD finish on the bridges and plates, a safer alternative to traditional ruthenium plating, and rhodanized wheels. As usual for Vacheron Constantin, the movement is well finished, as attested by the Geneva Seal. The anglage is smooth and rounded, with plenty of sharp interior and exterior angles to add visual interest.

The Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon cage is black polished and contains a slow-beating free-sprung balance on an overcoil hairspring. It’s supported by a pair of black-polished tubular steel bridges on either side. Another such bridge supports the near-silent centrifugal strike governor, which is signed with the initial of the brand’s founder, Jean-Marc Vacheron.

Image – Vacheron Constantin

Image – Vacheron Constantin

Case and Dial

The Art Deco-inspired “Openface” aesthetic debuted on the Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Openface in 2019 and has expanded to other models since. The clear sapphire dial makes it look as if the subdials and white gold indices are levitating, while the blue accents tie it in with the rest of the Overseas line and provide contrast against the anthracite movement.

While the cadrature is exposed by the sapphire dial, the unskeletonized calendar plate obscures the repeater works. The perpetual calendar itself is simple and traditional, and displays the date, day, month, and leap year cycle with the omission of a moonphase, giving the watch a cleaner look and drawing attention toward the tourbillon. Additional clutter is avoided by placing the power reserve indicator on the back and using a separate leap year counter, rather than compressing 48 months into a single sub-dial.

Image – Vacheron Constantin

Unlike its peers in the current Overseas collection, the Grand Complication doesn’t have a screw down case back. Instead, the brand designed a new screw-fixed display back to accommodate the repeater without adding height and compromising the case lines.

According to Vacheron Constantin, it took a year and a half to perfect the new caseback and water-resistant slide. It seems this involved sacrificing the soft iron that gave some degree of anti-magnetism to other overseas models. It also lacks a screw down crown, which be inconvinent for manually wound watch.

The case can be distinguished as titanium rather than steel by the sandblasted base of the bezel, rather than the normal satin finish. Vacheron Constantin has reserved titanium for special Overseas models, such as tourbillons, the Everest watches, and the Grand Complication Openface.

Like most other Overseas models, the watch comes on an integrated grade five titanium bracelet with comfort-adjustment, as well as blue rubber and alligator straps on titanium folding clasps. Straps can be exchanged quickly without tools using the same system found on other Overseas models.

Image – Vacheron Constantin

The calendar plate. Image – Vacheron Constantin

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Ref. 6510V/110T-128C

Diameter: 44.5 mm
Height: 7.7 mm
Material: Grade 5 titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2755 QP
Functions: Hours and minutes, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, tourbillon, power reserve
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: ~58 hours

Strap: Interchangeable titanium bracelet, blue alligator, and blue rubber straps

Limited edition: No, but limited production
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers
Price: On request

For more information, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary.

Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment.

Initial thoughts

The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well.

The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stamping.

The anniversary guilloche is centred on a Maltese cross in between seven and eight o’clock that radiates outwards

The guilloche is unique to the anniversary models, and the pattern arguably works better here than on the simpler models as the effect is more subtle since the sub-dials occupy most of the real estate.

The other anniversary-exclusive element is the côte unique finish on the movement bridges. Essentially a type of concentric graining that is inspired by the decor of vintage pocket watch movements, it unexpectedly complements the modern construction of the movement.

Even though the anniversary touches are obvious and appealing, I would have liked more done to make this edition stand out, like a different dial material or an elaboration on the movement decoration. While I see the need for uniformity amongst the 270th anniversary models, this is the most expensive anniversary edition by far, so it could do with a little more.

On that note, while the quality of execution is on par with peers like Patek Philippe, some of the detailing can be refined. Certainly brands like VC are aware of this, and more recent calibres illustrate that. The base calibre in the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, on the other hand, was introduced over seven years ago.

The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is priced a little over US$270,000, which is a lot but par for the course for this blend of complications. The Lange 1 with the same features, but a more innovative perpetual calendar mechanism, costs more.

Complication and chronometry

As is expected for a brand like VC, the presentation is traditional. The calendar indications sit in three registers, while the leap year is discreetly shown in a small aperture at one o’clock. Both in terms of design and functions, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar has historical basis, with its combination of features harking back to a similar watch revealed in 2005 for the brand’s 250th anniversary.

Although the watch is largish, it has good proportions. The diameter is 42 mm, but the thickness is a little over 11 mm, which is pretty compact for a self-winding tourbillon movement with a perpetual calendar. On the wrist, it feels wide but thin, which is appealing.

Though simple on the front, the Traditionnelle case has interesting detailing in profile. The lugs are subtly modelled on the Maltese cross, the brand’s logo, while the case back has a coin-edge rim.

At a distance, the dial looks entirely conventional and maybe even a little staid. But up close the anniversary guilloche gives it life. Although a simple in concept, the anniversary engine turning adds novelty with its modern, geometric aspect.

That said, I would liked a little more done on the front so that it stands out, although as I conceded earlier, there is a point in giving the anniversary models a consistent theme.

Unsurprisingly, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is powered by a slim movement, the cal. 2162 QP/270. It’s based on the cal. 2160, the brand’s first automatic movement with a tourbillon that was launched in 2018 inside the Traditionnelle Tourbillon. And on top is the perpetual calendar module that VC has employed in the past.

The most notable detail of the base movement is its peripheral rotor. All things being equal, this makes the cal. 2160 slimmer than an automatic with a full-rotor. At the same time, it leaves room for a larger barrel, which would otherwise not be possible if a micro-rotor was employed.

Peripheral rotors are decades old, but only recently became efficient enough to be employed on a relatively large scale. Besides the advantage of thinness, this winding mechanism also affords a full view of the movement.

One of the details that easily stands out is the winding mechanism at one o’clock. It’s based on the “Magic Lever” that was originally devised by Seiko in the 1960s but now widely used in high-end movements. The system possesses the advantages of efficiency, thinness, and robust simplicity. It does, however, take up more space than other winding mechanisms, which is not an obstacle given the space savings of the peripheral winding mechanism.

The familiar Y-shaped pawl and wheel that comprise the “Magic Lever”

While the movement is identical in all technical respects to the standard versions of the calibre, it has been given the special finish that is also found on the other anniversary models.

The côte unique graining on the bridges has an old school feel to it, and its simplicity allows the rest of the movement elements to appear more prominent.

The movement is decorated in the industrial-artisanal manner that is typical of VC and its peers. That means some machine-applied finishing, though almost everything is given a final once-over by hand.

As I noted above, there are details that should be refined – we don’t see that here but do on newer movement constructions.

Also unique to the 270th anniversary editions is the commemorative hallmark on the movement

The most elaborate bit of finishing is found on the front of the watch. The tourbillon cage takes the form of the Maltese cross and shows off detailing that is definitely the work of manual decoration. And it is secured by a steel bridge with rounded arms that is similarly finished by hand.

The balance wheel has a proprietary construction that relies on both screws and adjustable weights

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary
Ref. 6300/000P-H056

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2162 QP/270
Features: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding buckle

Limited edition: 127 pieces
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$273,000 before taxes

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross.

Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal.

Initial thoughts

This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion.

I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually.

The Patrimony Self-Winding duo

Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date.

Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial.

Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism.

This 4 Hz movement platform has a relatively limited 40 hours of power reserve, but evidently offers very stable torque as it is often used to power additional complications.

With a pricing that’s about 15% above the equivalent standard-production models, these are is ordinary value as such things go.

In any case, for those in the market for a Patrimony, the interesting dial is probably worth the splurge.

The retrograde date

The retrograde date is arguably the pick of the litter, given both its fine execution and the importance of this complication to VC’s visual identity. The brand has a long history with retrograde displays, and it’s become a staple complication with the Patrimony range.

An especially appealing aspect of the retrograde date is the hand set and moon phase disc, which are simple yet subtly detailed. The hour and minute hands, for example, are faceted along their length, and the moon phase is rendered in textured, case-matching gold.

But the real highlight, naturally, is the embossed Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30, and the intersecting lines that radiate from it. This detail is shared across the anniversary collection, but the larger sizing of the retrograde date gives the pattern more room to breathe, adding to its impact.

Anniversary automatic

For those who prefer a smaller footprint, the 40 mm Patrimony automatic offers center seconds and a simple date guichet at six o’clock. Here the Maltese Cross dial design takes center stage, without as many extraneous markings to distract from the pattern.

The pattern helps reveal an intriguing detail of the Patrimony range, which is the slightly domed dial. Once fairly common in watchmaking, domed dials are now quite rare, given them a certain vintage charm that is missing from most modern watches.

Anniversary automatic

Both Patrimony models share the same movement platform, and like other anniversary editions, have been finished with a simple, austere treatment similar to solarisation. Termed ‘côte unique,’ the finish involves techniques that were rediscovered during the brand’s restoration of the American 1921.

But the distinctive finish is less obvious here compared to the manually wound Traditionnelle, which offers an unobstructed view of the bridges. The Patrimony models are both automatic, and the solid gold winding mass contributes to a more typical overall appearance.

That’s not a bad thing, as both models leverage the cal. 2450/2460 series movement, which is VC’s top-shelf automatic used in everything from the 222 to the Copernicus Celestial Spheres.

While the specs on paper are pretty ordinary, and the 40-hour power reserve is comparatively short, the movement is nonetheless beautifully finished and carries the Geneva Seal.

A nice detail on the anniversary edition is the ‘270’ emblem engraved proudly beside the Poinçon de Genève.

Key Facts and Price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
Ref. 4010U/000G-H057 (18k white gold)
Ref. 4010U/000G-H117 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2460 R31L/270
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde date, and moon phase
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 270 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$53,000

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding 
Ref. 85180/000G-H035 (18k white gold)
Ref. 85180/000G-H116 (18k rose gold)

Case diameter: 40 mm
Case height: 8.65 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2450 Q6/270
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 370 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$34,700

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross.

In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions.

Initial thoughts

The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday.

On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial.

The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing.

The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is the dial, which brings a welcome degree of asymmetry to what is otherwise a very symmetrical design. Featuring the Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30, the dial is dressed up with an embossed, guilloche-style pattern that extends across the dial.

While priced at about a 10% premium relative to the regular production models, the fancy dial is a meaningful addition that should appeal to fans of the brand and those looking for a dress watch with a little extra personality.

A remarkable dial

Movement finish aside, the anniversary Traditionnelle is all about its dial, which is embossed with the brand’s signature Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30. This symbol serves as the origin point for a series of intersecting parallel lines that create a a pleasing, asymmetric pattern across the entire dial surface.

VC has produced guilloche editions of the Traditionnelle before, but to-date none have been as visually dramatic as the 270th anniversary edition. It’s unapologetically self-referential, yet subtle. By placing the pattern’s origin point at the edge of the dial, the designers created room on the upper half of the dial for the eye to rest, preventing the design from becoming overwhelming.

Familiar movement with a new look

The Traditionnelle feature’s the brand’s well-known cal. 4400 movement, which ticks at a robust 4 Hz and runs for 65 hours from a single mainspring barrel.

Often cited as one of the most well-finished movements in its class, the cal. 4400 qualifies for the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, and benefits from several hand-finished details like gleaming anglage and black polished steel locking plates for the stud holder and Triovis regulator.

Termed ‘côte unique,’ the finish requires techniques that had been lost to time until VC undertook the task of remaking the the American 1921 in 2021. While I slightly prefer the typical Geneva stripes to which I’ve become accustomed, the special finish helps distinguish the 270th anniversary edition from its brethren.

The cal. 4400 with normal finishing as seen in the Traditionnelle ref. 82172

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Ref. 82172/000P-H062 (platinum)
Ref. 82172/000P-H118 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.77 mm
Material: Platinum or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4400 AS/270
Features: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 370 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$36,300 in platinum; US$26,100 in rose gold

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development.

Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.)

Initial thoughts

Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory.

The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece.

Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot be understated.

Something that might go unnoticed amidst all the complexity is the silicon balance wheel, which is a first for VC and also unusual in such a complicated watch. The implications of this material are interesting; will it be adopted over a wider range of models?

If there is a shortcoming in the Solaria, it is a trait that is common to all such mega complications: the impractically complicated appearance that is a challenge to process.

There is so much information condensed in the overlapping displays that the dials do look cluttered. Legibility is certainly not its strength, but arguably such visual complexity is intrinsic to a watch of this calibre. Given the extraordinary nature of the Solaria, some aesthetic compromises can be overlooked. 

Forty-one complications

The Solaria boasts 41 complications, with five of them being “rare” according to VC – an accurate enough claim. Four of these are linked to the Sun and its position, while the fifth is a complete world first.

The Solaria displays the position, height, culmination and declination of the Sun. These four complications are linked to the apparent path of the Sun, as observed from a given position on Earth. 

The position of the Sun is indicated at the periphery of the dial, on a rotating sapphire ring. When oriented in accordance with the cardinal points, the watch reliably displays the Sun’s position in the sky, along with the sunrise and sunset times.

The height of the Sun indication expressed in degrees (between 20° and 68°) displays the elevation of the Sun above the horizon line.  

The culmination of the Sun is displayed in the same six o’clock large sub dial as the height and declination. The culmination of the Sun (also known as solar noon) is when the star reaches the highest point in its daily trajectory. This indication is somewhat subjective, since it is dependent on the observer’s longitude. 

Lastly, the declination of the Sun represents the angle formed by the Earth’s equatorial plane and an imaginary segment joining the Sun and Earth. It increases from −23.5° in winter solstice to +23.5° in summer solstice, having a value of zero at equinoxes. 

This indication is displayed at six o’clock, integrated with the others. The same sub-dial also houses a running equation of time indicator and a counter displaying the 13 constellations of the zodiac (including Ophiuchus), along with the seasons, solstices and equinoxes. These complications together are already more advanced than a full perpetual calendar. 

A world-first astronomical complication

Turning the watch around, and another dial displaying additional complications is revealed.  The fifth “rare” complication — a world first — is linked to the rattrapante chronograph on the reverse face.

This complication is a celestial object tracker. Twin superimposed tinted-sapphire disks form a star chart that revolves in real time. This works together with a split-seconds chronograph to calculate the time required for a specific constellation to appear in the wearer’s field of vision. 

To use the celestial body tracker complication, the wearer must choose a star on the celestial chart and start the chronograph.

Stop the split chronograph hand once it aligns with a green reference marker, but allow the other seconds hand to continue until it reaches the current position of the chosen star, then stop it as well. 

The green triangle on the small central counter indicates the number of hours remaining until the star will become visible. The complication’s presentation may be a little difficult to fully understand, but the purpose is surprising and admittedly novel.

The split-seconds chronograph can be used just for conventional elapsed timing as well, as the chronograph also includes a 60-minute counter in disc form.

One of the many patents in the movement is linked to the split function, which comes with an isolateur that assures there is no additional friction to the split-seconds shafts when the chronograph is engaged. 

Westminster chime

Accounting for seven out of the 13 patents in the Solaria, the Westminster carillon minute repeater is integrated into the base movement. This is no small feat, considering additional modules for the astronomical complications also needed to be taken into account. 

The carillon repeater requires four hammers and four gongs for the complex musical sequence. Because the movement is so dense, classic chiming systems were not suitable, since the sound was dampened by the sheer amount of tightly packed metal pieces.

As such, the gongs are shaped with a rectangular section and are directly attached to the middle case, which promises to increase the resonance of the chiming. 

The hammers also feature a proprietary design. They are compact in shape and made from steel, but with added 18K gold weights in order to increase their moment of inertia. 

More indications…

Apart from the sounding and astronomical complications, the Solaria also features classic indications and functions that traditionally define high complication pieces. 

The Solaria includes a complete perpetual calendar, which displays the correct date, including the year in a four-digit format. There is also a moon phase indication, which is disappointingly only accurate for the industry norm of one day in 122 years, after which it requires manual adjustment. 

Additionally, the Solaria has both a 24-hour time display and a world time indication calibrated to standard winter time. This means that the already complex timepiece can simultaneously track three different timezones (including the local time shown by the central hands).

With “plug and play”

While the chiming mechanism is integrated into the base movement along with the going train and tourbillon regulator, the astronomical complications form the upper layers of the cal. 3655. The innovative “plug and play” device is a clever way of integrating the astronomical complications. 

In order to ease any future servicing work, the astronomical module is a single functional unit, assembled and adjusted separately from the rest of the movement. A clever indexing system assures the module is positioned correctly, allowing it to be installed and then immediately be driven by the base movement. 

This type of connection will undoubtedly be used by VC in the future for simpler movements with comparable modular constructions, like a perpetual calendar for example. 

Addendum: The 41 complications

Time functions

1.     Day and night indication for reference city
2.     Second time zone hours and minutes (on 24-hour display )
3.     World time indication for 24 cities
4.     Second time zone day and night indication
5.     3Hz tourbillon with silicon balance wheel
6.     Civil time display module coupled to the base movement

Perpetual Calendar

7.     Perpetual calendar
8.     Days of the week
9.     Months
10.   Gregorian retrograde date
11.    Four-digit year indication
12.    Leap-year indication
13.    Indication for the number of the week within the year (ISO 8601 calendar)
14.    Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar)

Lunar indications

15.    Astronomical Moon phases and age of the Moon
16.    Tide level indicator
17.    Spring and neap tides indication

Astronomical indications

18.    Indication of seasons, equinoxes & solstices
19.    Position of the Sun20Sunrise time (according to the city of reference)
21.    Sunset time (according to the city of reference)
22.    Duration of the day (according to the city of reference)
23.    Equation of time on tropical (solar) gear
24.    Culmination time of the Sun (according to the city of reference)
25.    Height of the Sun above the horizon (according to the city of reference)
26.    Declination of the Sun, Three-dimensional Earth showing the latitude of the Sun in the Northern/Southern hemisphere
27.    Sidereal hours
28.    Sidereal minutes
29.    Astronomical zodiac signs
30.    Sky chart (according to the city of reference)
31.    Temporal tracking of celestial objects

Chiming complications

32.    Minute repeater
33.    Westminster carillon chime (4 hammers & 4 gongs)
34.    Choice of hour-only or full chime
35.    Crown locking system during the chiming
36.    Double-stop hammer system to limit rebound and optimise transmission of energy

Split-seconds chronograph

37.    Chronograph (1 column wheel)
38.    60-minute counter
39.    Split-seconds chronograph (1 column wheel)
40.    Isolator system for the split-seconds chronograph

Additional feature

41.    Power-reserve indication (outer disc at 190°)

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première
Ref. 9600C/000G-231C

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 14.99 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Moisture protected

Movement: Cal. 3655
Functions: Grande complication with 41 functions, including a celestial object tracker
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Limited edition: Single-piece edition as shown
Availability: Made to order with each example being unique
Price: On request

For more information, visit Vacheron-constantin.com.