TAG Heuer is marking the rollout of its new-and-improved, and in-house, carbon hairsprings – timed to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the hairspring’s invention – with a pair of chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring.

More than just two new watches, the TH-Carbonspring is a notable technical achievement that might promise an entirely new generation of TAG Heuer movements equipped with oscillators that boast all of the advantages of silicon, but with added robustness. Protected by several patents, TH-Carbonspring is also the result of a fascinating process of research and development to overcome a surprising problem.

Kitted out in carbon composite dials and cases, the two watches are centred on TAG Heuer’s latest-generation carbon-nanocomposite balance springs, with each being a limited edition of just 50 pieces

Initial thoughts

Both models serve as a launch platform for TAG Heuer’s improved and industrialisation-ready carbon hairspring. While the brand has been flirting with carbon hairsprings since 2019, its use of the technology has been intermittent and on limited scale.

TAG Heuer explains previous attempts at carbon springs were not up to the brand’s standards, which is to say the hairsprings did not perform as expected and could not be produced at scale. The new TH-Carbonspring indicates TAG Heuer has perfected the technology to make reliable hairsprings, which might lead to broader adoption within the LVMH’s stable of watch brands. In fact, the material might even rival silicon in the future, at least for LVMH marques.

The main advantages of carbon hairsprings are the total magnetic resistance (since carbon is naturally non-magnetic), lightness, and ability to be formed in any shape imaginable — especially useful when optimising hairspring geometry. These qualities are very close to silicon’s traits, but carbon holds an advantage, higher yield strength, making it more robust when handled by a watchmaker during assembly or service.

Assuming TAG Heuer can industrialise the carbon hairspring and install it across its production, as is the goal, the technical achievement of TH-Carbonspring is significant. Ironically, the two watches are fairly low-key symbols of this achievement, both have a similar monochromatic aesthetic  due to the overwhelming use of carbon composite on the exterior — though they are as different as they come. 

Notably, the movements in the two watches are distinguished not only by the carbon hairspring, but in terms of decoration as well. Both the Monaco and Carrera share a distinctive chequerboard finish that was first implemented on the one-of-a-kind Monaco made for the Only Watch charity auction. Though not hand applied as with the unique piece, the decor does set these calibres apart.

The Monaco Flyback TH-Carbonspring is undoubtedly the better looking of the two – though I admit I’ve always been a fan of the Monaco. Fashioned out of forged carbon, the square Monaco case is very different from the colourful piece that famously graced Steve McQueen’s wrist. The monochromatic look suits the square design well, all while keeping the dial sufficiently legible. 

The classic dial layout of the Monaco is retained, but with a clever touch in the form of a spiral motif on the dial. In keeping with the iconic twin register look, the Monaco Flyback employs a “ghost” register for the running seconds at six o’clock. 

At CHF17,000 the Monaco in carbon is a little pricey compared to the standard Monaco models, but it offers a lot more in all respects, from the case material and the movement technology. That, combined with the small edition size, rationalises the price.

The Carrera, on the other hand, is still a value-minded complication, but dressed in a full carbon ensemble. The result is not as appealing as the Monaco, with some design choices here looking forced. The marbled texture of forged carbon are more prominent than on the Monaco, while the lugs attempt to resemble an integrated bracelet. Much of the aesthetic result is due to the design of the Carrera Extreme Sport rather than the carbon livery.

While the Carrera might not be to everyone’s taste, its value lies in the in-house chronograph movement, adapted for a flying tourbillon regulator which puts the TH-Carbonspring front and center.

The two movements employed to showcase the new TH-Carbonspring point to TAG Heuer moving upmarket in terms of both industrialisation capability and quality. Performance chronographs from the likes of Rolex, Omega and Breitling are almost all chronometer-certified while also employing advanced technology, especially in the oscillator.

TAG Heuer was always a little behind in that respect. With its new hairspring technology, TAG Heuer has finally a fighting chance of reaffirming its place as a chronograph maker of note, with innovation-fuelled creations.

The carbon evolution

With the hairspring turning 350 years old, we already delved substantially into its history and evolution driven by materials science. The final important development in the evolution was the silicon hairspring with its easy mass-production, tight tolerances, and isochronal geometries, not to mention a useful resistance to magnetic and temperature influence.

Carbon, however, might do one better. For all its qualities, silicon still suffers from inherent brittleness, which makes such hairsprings susceptible to snapping due to shock or even mishandling during service. This weakness, combined with the fact that the patent for silicon hairsprings limits their use to a select few companies, drove the engineers at the TAG Heuer Institute (now renamed the TAG Heuer Lab) to search for other non-metallic materials that to replace alloy springs.

TH-Carbonspring sample, with a distinctive geometry.

TAG Heuer’s first carbon nanocomposite hairsprings hit the market in 2019. The new oscillator promised all the advantages of silicon (non-magnetic, isochronal geometry) while boasting a superior yield strength. At the time, TAG Heuer claimed the new hairsprings could withstand 5,000 G of acceleration — a value which would snap silicon and severely bend alloy springs. 

These first versions the carbon spring were made out of carbon nanocomposite, essentially a vertical bundle of carbon nanotubes (with diameters of 3 to 7 nanometers), held together by a rigid carbon matrix, almost like a forest of nanotube trees. The tubes were arranged perpendicular to the spiral’s plane, with each nanotube parallel to the rotational centre of the hairspring, namely the balance staff. 

PVD chamber with wafer plate.

The patent WO2017220672A1 filed back in 2017 detailed an original two-part production process for these carbon nanotube hairsprings. The first step was “growing” the nanotube structure with a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) method, and the second step was filling in the core carbon matrix, the adhesive that held the tubes together. The process was done on wafers similar to those used for silicon etching. 

The resulting carbon nanocomposite hairspring was elastic and strong, with the particular structure lending it a high elastic limit. A different patent addressed the issue of temperature self-compensation and the thermo-elastic coefficient. Paired with a proprietary geometry that would keep the rotation center coincident with the balance axis (an issue broadly covered in a past story on hairspring overcoils), the new carbon springs looked like a strong rival to replace silicon.

The promising system was only used sporadically by TAG Heuer (and sister company Zenith), clearly a sign that the hairspring was not as performing as intended — although the concept looked foolproof. A few select timepieces featured the new spring, but the carbon technology never reached the industrialised scale of its silicon counterpart. 

With the new TH-Carbonspring, TAG Heuer hints at the full potential for industrialising its improved carbon springs – the brand’s annual production of mechanical watches is into six figures. The fact that the two new models are each limited to 50 pieces is most probably related to their costly forged carbon cases and carbon accented dials, rather than the hairsprings themselves. 

Now watertight

Though TAG Heuer hints at a new and improved manufacturing process for the carbon springs, it has kept quiet about the details that make the invention ready for mass production. We did however manage to trace patent WO2025114588A1, filed at the end of last year and published earlier this year in June, which describes the additional manufacturing steps and hints at the issue that plagued the past versions of its carbon hairspring.

The patent heavily builds on the initial one from 2017, but explains how the composite material, in its raw form, is water permeable. This means that the original springs absorbed water and other liquids, which in turn affected their qualities (mass, natural frequency). In any watch there are plenty of lubrication points — not to mention the ever-present humidity in the air, all which seem to have negatively affected the original carbon springs. 

The issue of material permeability does not immediately come to mind in the field of hairspring design, since metal alloys and silicon are inherently non-permeable. The issue of oxidation was an issue, especially with alloy springs, but separate from permeability.

In the earlier version of TAG Heuer’s carbon hairspring, the nanotube “forest” turned into a sponge of sorts, with its porous surface absorbing humidity into the spaces between the tubes. The new patent explains the unwanted effect was only noticed in serial-production springs, so it was completely unforeseen during the design and development phase.  

At its core, the new patent describes a method of surface passivation, such that the hairsprings become hydro- and oleophobic. In other words, the hairspring will not absorb any liquids that may come in contact with its surface.

Through a bend of chemistry and physics, TAG Heuer engineers developed a process of treating the nanocomposite springs with specific carbon chains that render the final product impervious to humidity. The process itself is similar to electrolysis in some ways, but requires specialised chemical reactors and needed some extensive experimentation to be fine-tuned. 

With the implementation of this final step, the TH-Carbonspring seems to be a mature technology that is finally able to fulfil its potential. While it shares some qualities with silicon springs, mainly the imperviousness to magnetic fields and optimised geometry, it surpasses silicon in two ways: lightness and much higher yield strength. 

A lighter hairspring is more faithful to the theoretically perfect sprung regulator, which doesn’t take into account the spring’s own mass and inertia. The higher yield strength allows the TH-Carbonspring to withstand shocks, and important allows watchmakers to handle them like alloy springs during assembly and servicing, without fear of breakage.

The Monaco

Perhaps the most emblematic model in TAG Heuer’s line, the Monaco is dressed in carbon for this limited edition, while keeping the design cues of the original.

The square chronograph retains its classic, well-proportioned 39 mm case that is now sculpted from carbon composite. Being fashioned out of carbon, the case is light and durable. The material not only gives the watch a stealthy and raw look, but also makes each piece unique, since the carbon graining has a different orientation in each batch of material.

Also rendered in carbon composite, the dial is milled with a circular motif made up of wide bands that spiral from the center — a nod to the coils of a hairspring. 

The white hands and numerals maximise legibility, while the intentional omission of a defined sub dial for the small seconds is laudable, since it preserves the original Monaco look. The small seconds hand itself is blackened and only visible under close scrutiny. 

The Monaco Flyback TH-Carbonspring is powered by the TH20-60, an in-house movement derived from the more basic TH20-00 developed by Carole Forestier-Kasapi and her team. Compared to the basic version of the caliber, the TH20-60 is updated with a flyback function as well as the TH-Carbonspring system. 

The TH20-60 caliber is at its core a competent and modern chronograph movement, with a respectable power reserve of 80 hours and a standard 4 Hz rate. It benefits from a column wheel actuation system and a vertical clutch — both marks of modern performance chronographs. This new version updates the regulator with a TH-Carbonspring, while curiously keeping the simplistic raquette regulating system. 

The choice of an inexpensive index regulator, compared to the more advanced free-sprung option is odd — especially for a timepiece which is centred around a new high-performance regulator. Although it is not advertised on the dial, the TH20-60 is COSC-chronometer certified.

The caliber is clearly machine-finished, with the bridges finished with a chequered flag motif inspired by the brand’s motorsport ties. Being a round movement fitted into a larger square case, the TH20-60 requires a substantial movement ring, which is also tastefully finished with the same pattern.

A chronograph and tourbillon

Compared the almost-subdued Monaco, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring is an aggressively styled 44 mm. Whereas the Monaco leans into classic looks, the Carrera TH-Carbonspring is modern. The large case follows the lines of the traditional Carrera form, but is bulked up and accented with touches like the “integrated” strap.

It is fashioned from forged carbon, as are the chronograph pushers and crown. Also in carbon is the tachymeter bezel that features lacquered numerals. 

Much like the Monaco, the Carrera is very legible, something which can’t be said for many monochromatic watches. The carbon spiral motif is present on the dial as well, although it is decidedly larger than the one used for the Monaco. The spiral pattern is emanates from the tourbillon cage, as opposed to the center of the dial, which is a thoughtful design choice.

The defining visual trait of the model is surely the flying tourbillon regulator, positioned a little too low at the 6 o’clock position. The cutout aperture is larger than the chronograph sub registers and for some reason makes the tourbillon look a little small. This and the fact that it cuts into the outer minute track leaves the impression of a slightly lopsided dial. 

Powering the Carrera is the TH20-61 — yet another iteration of the basic TH20-00. For this version, TAG Heuer kept the chronograph works and only altered the going train and base plate to accommodate the dial-side tourbillon regulator.

The TH-Carbonspring is paired here with a free-sprung balance, which is fitting at this price point. The TH20-61 manages 65 hours of power reserve while beating at 4 Hz. This is less compared to the TH20-60 in the Monaco and the difference speaks of to the energy consumption of a tourbillon regulator. The TH20-61 is chronometer certified as well and shares the same finishing as the TH20-60. 

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring
Ref. CBL5190.FT6313

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 14.1 mm
Material: Forged carbon, DLC-coated titanium caseback
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-60
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and flyback chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with DLC-coated titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Starting from December 2025
Price: CHF17,000

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring
Ref. CBU5091.FT6305

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.4 mm
Material: Forged carbon, DLC-coated titanium caseback
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-61
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph, and flying tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with DLC-coated titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Starting from the first quarter of 2026
Price: CHF40,000

For more, visit Tagheuer.com.

As the summer holidays begin for many collectors around the world, we take a look at some of the standout summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2025.

While there’s no formal definition for what constitutes a ‘summer watch’, we focused on models that are robustly built and expressive in their designs, colours, and materials. With options ranging from just US$1,850 to over US$400,000, our list will have something for almost everyone.

Under US$5,000

First up on the budget end of the spectrum is the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph, which comes in a variety of colours and materials. Affordably priced thanks to its set-and-forget solar-powered quartz movement, the Solargraph is the spiritual successor to the brand’s iconic Formula One collection, which debuted in 1986. The launch of the Formula One collection was a turning point for the brand, which had recently rebranded as TAG Heuer following TAG Group’s acquisition of then-struggling Heuer.

The Solargraph is available in several colourways, and sits easily on the wrist thanks to its 38 mm size and 9.9 mm thickness. For the case material, buyers can choose between stainless steel, with brushed or DLC-coated black finishes, or colourful plastic known as Polylight.

All models are rated to 100 m of water resistance, as even the plastic-cased models feature an internal stainless steel case and screw-down steel case back. I’m partial to the red version (ref. WBY1161.FT8086) as it doesn’t take itself too seriously and can be seen as a nod to Heuer’s historical connections to Scuderia Ferrari.

The relaunch of the collection in 2025 also makes sense as TAG Heuer recently reclaimed its position as official timekeeper for Formula 1, and became the first-ever title sponsor of the famous Monaco Grand Prix. Furthermore, with global interest in Formula 1 surging in recent years, the value of the F1 brand has never been higher.

A cynic might point out these watches have little to do with racing beyond the marketing, but Heuer’s ties to the culture of motorsport go way back; under Jack Heuer’s leadership, the company became the first watch brand to sponsor an F1 team back in 1971. These kinds of cultural bona fides are vanishingly rare at the Solargraph’s price point of just under US$2,000.

Next up is one of the most surprising watches of 2025, the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. It’s easy to feel jaded about the continued onslaught of integrated bracelet sport watches, but the Loco punches well above its weight, featuring an architectural new calibre and impressive finishing.

The Loco is a big step in the evolution of the Christopher Ward brand, which has been pushing upmarket recently with models like the Bel Canto that defy ‘entry level’ norms for design and complication.

The Loco features a 41 mm stainless steel case and is available on an integrated steel bracelet or a rubber strap. I recommend the rubber, as it’s unusually supple and helps the watch avoid the trap of looking too much like everything else.

The case is fairly thick at 13.7 mm, but this includes the domed sapphire crystal that sits up high above the case, creating space for the dial-side theatrics. The crystal is also worth mentioning in the context of the meager 30 m water resistance rating, which might seem low for a sport watch.

In fact, the watch features a reassuringly solid screw-down crown and the water resistance is limited mainly by the faceted crystal, which wasn’t engineered for the crushing pressure of deeper depths, but is more than sufficient for the pool or beach club.

The thickness is well-justified, since the CW-003 movement is quite unlike anything else at the Loco’s price point of US$4,595. The CW-003 is a manually wound calibre with two massive mainspring barrels visible through the transparent case back, which together provide a six-day power reserve.

Flip the watch over, and the brand’s first-ever free-sprung balance brings life to the dial, which displays the hours and minutes on an off-center sapphire display.  The movement is not only visually striking, with sculpted steel bridges and cocks supporting the major component groups, but the finishing is head-and-shoulders above its microbrand peers.

Rounding out the entry level category, honourable mentions go to the Albishorn Thundergraph and the Laventure Marine Type 3, which tap into the notion of ‘imaginary vintage’ in different and interesting ways. The Thundergraph features a novel monopusher chronograph designed by Sébastien Chaulmontet, and the Marine Type 3 references early quartz marine chronometers for its design, and weighs less than 50 g on its elastic strap thanks in part to its grade 23 titanium case.

Under US$10,000

A step up in price affords access to the Tudor Pelagos Ultra, which is arguably the highest spec dive watch in the brand’s history. Though the title of deepest diving Tudor is still held by the short-lived and little-loved Hydro 1200, the 1,000 m-rated Ultra is powered by a far more advanced in-house MT5612-U movement that carries the Master Chronometer designation. For those who love chunky overbuilt dive watches, the Ultra is an appealing option at US$6,100.

Housed in a fully brushed 43 mm titanium case, the Ultra measures 14.5 mm thick and has the purposeful feel of a precision instrument. This sizing gives the Ultra inherent wrist presence, but the restrained monochromatic design and matte textures keep it from making a spectacle of itself, which tends to be the case with some rivals.

Naturally, it includes all the familiar touches of the Pelagos line: a ceramic bezel, snowflake hands, brushed titanium bracelet, and plenty of lume, including on the adjustable T-fit clasp.

Ceramic is an increasingly popular material in luxury watchmaking thanks to its scratch-resistance and capacity for colour, which makes it easy to look at a watch like the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Lake Tahoe and think the brand is jumping on a fad, but the facts are more nuanced.

IWC was an early pioneer of zirconium oxide watch cases as far back as 1986 when the brand introduced the white ceramic Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3755-05. This lineage gives the brand’s ceramic watches like the Lake Tahoe a degree of historical continuity that latecomers can only dream of.

The Lake Tahoe is light, bright, and delivered on a rubber strap that is ready for anything you might get up to this summer (though the white textile shell might need some cleaning from time to time).

Priced at US$8,500, the Lake Tahoe is a fresh take on the brand’s famous pilot’s watch, managing to thread the needle between fashionable and timeless. If I could change one thing about this watch, it would be the unnecessary Top Gun branding that adorns the solid case back, but I could live with it considering the dial is unblemished.

Inside, the Lake Tahoe shares the same cal. 32112 automatic movement as the pricier Ingenieur, though it must be said the same movement is available for even less from sister brands within the Richemont stable. Still, the 120-hour power reserve is a great feature if your summer plans are anything like mine and involve doing as little as possible.

Under US$20,000

Rolex tends to dominate the conversation at Watches & Wonders, but this year they actually earned it by introducing the Land-Dweller, one of the most over-engineered sport watches ever developed. Truly the watch of the summer, Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour was recently spotted wearing one at Wimbledon. The Land-Dweller is notable for bringing back the Oysterquartz-style integrated bracelet design, but it excels most in ways that aren’t immediately obvious.

The Rolex Land-Dweller, shown here in platinum

The real story is the new silicon Dynapulse escapement that makes its debut in the cal. 7135. The first Rolex movement to tick at 5 Hz, the cal. 7135 benefits from 16 patents, making it quite unlike any other movement in the brand’s collection.

Rolex is a very conservative brand and has dabbled in silicon before on a limited scale, namely the Syloxi hairspring, but the brand is now clearly convinced that this technology is mature and ready for widespread use.

While the US$63,500 platinum model is shown, the white dialed variant in steel can be had for just US$14,900, which I’d say is a stellar value.

What’s more, the polarising design and somewhat awkward Land-Dweller model name narrowed the field of prospective customers, which might make it easier for technically-minded or contrarian collectors to pick one up without too much hassle.

Summer is usually a time for kicking back and having fun, which might explain Grand Seiko’s new ‘Tokyo Lion” edition of the Tentagraph, ref. SLGC009G.

Featuring a massive titanium case with aggressive, angular details, the Tokyo Lion retains the high-beat modular cal. 9SC5 chronograph  movement that made its debut in 2023. The styling of this watch is almost outrageous by the normally restrained standards of Grand Seiko, but in a world of lookalike integrated bracelet watches, the Tokyo Lion is a breath of fresh air.

We have to start with those pushers, which are serrated to mimic a lion’s paws. Like the case, they feature angular forms with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces. Overall, the case measures 43 mm and a whopping 15.6 mm thick, but weighs a manageable 139 g thanks to its titanium construction.

Wearing comfort is enhanced by the soft rubber strap, delivered in a similar shade of brown as the embossed dial. In keeping with the lion theme, the inside of the strap has been stamped with a paw print to aid air circulation. Ventilation channels are common with rubber straps but rarely do makers get so creative with the design.

The Tokyo Lion is the very definition of ‘wrist presence’ but at US$16,900 it doesn’t offer the value proposition that many expect from Grand Seiko. That said, the Tentagraph movement is highly differentiated from its Swiss peers and contains the brand’s proprietary direct impulse escapement that extends the power reserve to 80 hours. It also features a free-sprung balance and an overcoil hairspring, something that’s all but extinct at this end of the market.

Under US$50,000

Hublot is brand that elicits strong emotions, and despite getting occasionally dragged on social media for being overpriced or derivative, the brand has earned many devotees thanks to its bold designs and use of innovative materials like recycled tennis racquets and multi-coloured ceramics.

The new Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic demonstrates the brand’s ongoing leadership in the field of ceramics, which are difficult to produce in vibrant colours. In this case (pun intended) the ceramic cladding has been given a high-gloss finish that resembles high-end automotive paint, differentiating it from ceramic watches from the likes of Audemars Piguet, and the pastel mint green colour helps tone down the overt masculinity of the design.

While Hublot has a reputation for making large watches, the 42 mm Big Bang case hugs the wrist and should be manageable for most, although the folding clasp is not an ideal fit on some wrists.

And those who take the plunge will be rewarded by some of the best chronograph pushers in the industry, which are immensely satisfying in both appearance and operation; even if the design isn’t your cup of tea it’s worth experiencing the smooth texture and crisp break when starting or stopping the chronograph.

Speaking of the HUB1280 Unico movement, most of the major component groups are visible through the open-worked dial, including the column-wheel and anti-backlash gearing for the horizontal clutch, which makes for an engaging visual treat.

That said, there are a couple things I’d change given the retail price of US$24,100. First, I’ve always wished Hublot would use a free-sprung balance in the Unico platform, not least because the brand teased this feature in the original movement prototypes.

Second, the injection-moulded plastic mid-case is a little rough around the edges. These shortcomings aside, the vibrant colour, glossy texture, technical styling, and differentiated movement make the Big Bang Mint Green Ceramic pretty convincing on the wrist.

I vividly remember the first time I put on the Ulysse Nardin Diver Air, and of all the options on this list it would be my go-to holiday watch. Its appeal is rooted in its lightweight case, which weighs just 46 g without its 6-g velcro strap.

There are lighter watches, but none are true divers like the Air. Numbers aside, the watch feels almost weightless, perhaps due to the expectations created by its large visual size, and is effortlessly comfortable on the wrist.

So how did they make a proper dive watch that’s 44 mm by 14.7 mm thick weigh as little as a dozen sheets of A4 paper?

It starts with a titanium case and bezel, which is clad with Nylo, an upcycled polymer-carbon composite material. The ruthless search for weight-savings continues inside to the UN-374 automatic movement that itself weighs just 7 g thanks to its efficiently engineered open-worked design and titanium bridges.

The Air features many appealing details, from the exposed magic lever bi-directional winding system, to the bold notches on the bezel that feel great to the touch. There’s also a fun Easter egg on the case back: instead of the usual “Swiss” designation that’s commonplace, Ulysse Nardin went a step further and engraved the coordinates for their headquarters in Le Locle.

Of course, being a Ulysse Nardin, the Air capitalises on the brand’s expertise in silicon technology; the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel, and pallet lever are crafted from silicon, which helps improve isochronism and reduces the need for lubrication. But while the watch weighs just 52 g all told, it’s not for lightweight budgets, priced at US$38,000. This pricing might be a challenge, since visually the watch has a lot in common with the brand’s own Diver X collection, which is priced lower but lacks the extraordinary wrist feel of the Air.

US$50,000 to $150,000

Someday we will be able to talk about the Cubitus without having to mention the outcry that accompanied the collection’s launch late last year, but we’re not there yet. In short, Patek Philippe’s new square-shaped collection of elegant sport watches proved to be a hit with the brand’s A-list clientele but the 45 mm sizing left some Nautilus fans scratching their heads.

Enter the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G, which debuted at Watches & Wonders in a new 40 mm size that should convert many skeptics. The new Cubitus feels reassuringly dense thanks to its slim white gold case and bracelet, which drapes over the wrist in a way that will feel familiar to those who’ve worn a Nautilus in precious metal.

The Nautilus theme continues on the dial, which features the familiar embossed sunburst finish and lozenge-shaped hand set of its predecessor. But the octagonal bezel, which is basically a square with faceted corners, gives the Cubitus its own identity. The resemblance is probably incidental, but the shape reminds me of Place Vendôme, the location of the Patek Philippe boutique in Paris.

Naturally, the finishing is excellent inside and out. While it’s true that the cal. 26-330 S C is one of Patek Philippe’s more industrial movements and you shouldn’t waste time looking for inward angles, it is genuinely radiant and the major details are finished appropriately. Furthermore, the brand’s industrial prowess pays dividends when it comes to timekeeping, with a best-in-class rating of -1 to +2 seconds per day thanks mainly to its silicon hairspring.

We’ve yet to find the limits of Patek Philippe’s pricing power, and the retail price of about US$80,000 is probably justified given the supply and demand dynamics at this end of the market. Value retention aside, the smaller sizing and luxurious weight give the Cubitus a truly decadent feel on the wrist.

If the faceted form of the Cubitus doesn’t do it for you, the new Honeygold Odysseus from A. Lange & Söhne might.

For those who are new to Lange lore, Honeygold is a proprietary gold alloy that the brand reserves for special editions. As a result, Honeygold watches tend to be sought-after by collectors looking for something unique. Beyond this inherent exclusivity, the composition of Honeygold makes it harder and more scratch-resistant than other gold alloys, making it ideally suited for luxury sport watch like the Odysseus.

Otherwise, the Honeygold edition is similar to the standard time-only Odysseus models, featuring the same embossed dial pattern found on the white gold version that debuted in 2020. In other words, it’s exceptionally well made but slightly awkward in appearance.

Like any Lange, the company puts most of its own efforts into the movement, and lets suppliers deal with the rest, hence the maker’s mark for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH (SUG) engraved on the case back. This means that the L155.1 Datomatic movement gets the brand’s full attention, and it shows.

The movement was adapted from the L086.1 but upgraded with a 4 Hz beat rate and full balance bridge to match the sporty aspirations of the Odysseus collection.

Lange has been aggressive with pricing of late, especially when it comes to the brand’s special edition models like this. In fact, at about US$110,000, the Honeygold Odysseus is one of the first Lange models I’ve seen priced higher than the equivalent Patek Philippe. Sure, it’s finished to a higher standard than its Geneva-built rival and will be made in much smaller numbers, just 100 pieces in fact, but it’s an eye-opening price nonetheless.

For those looking for something a little different with a mild complication, this year saw the launch of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time, which features the brand’s own take on the jump hour complication and comes in a white gold case with intriguing construction. Compared to previous Tambour models that tended to be colourful and exuberant, the Spin Time, for better or worse, is tastefully restrained in its design and colour palette

The Spin Time is available in a few different configurations, but all benefit from the latest automatic movement platform from the group’s top movement supplier, La Fabrique du Temps, hence the ‘LFT’ prefix on the cal. ST13.01. It’s a well-finished movement with a free-sprung balance and a solid gold winding mass, compactly organised into the center of the case to drive the peripheral spinning cubes that indicate each hour.

But for me, the Spin Time really shines thanks to its elaborate white gold case, which is a more streamlined version of the chunky Tambour case used in the past. This means that it feels somewhat familiar, with the brand name written around the bezel, but this and all other details have been slimmed down and refined.

The case is vaguely conical in form, with the widest point sitting close to the wrist. The lugs are fitted separately in order to offer a contrasting finish with the brushed mid-case, and it’s worth appreciating the fine joinery where the lugs attach – it’s a complex fit done expertly well.

Some might balk at the retail price of US$76,000, but objectively speaking the Spin Time offers as much or more than many watches at this price point from establishment brands. This speaks to the fact that while Louis Vuitton is the 800-pound Gorilla of mainstream luxury, many watch collectors view it as more of a startup when it comes to high-end watchmaking.

Unlimited budget

Watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” illustrate the divide between the “haves and the have-yachts” to borrow the title of Evan Osnos’ recent book. Targeted at the intersection of haute horlogerie and contemporary art, the Companion is a collaboration with Brian Donnelly, an American artist who makes work under the name KAWS.

The Companion is literally that – a miniature version of KAWS’ signature character rendered in titanium. The cal. 2979 movement features peripheral hour and minute hands that orbit the companion itself, along with a tourbillon visible at six o’clock. The titanium case is a reasonable 43 mm in diameter, but it suffers from a 17.4 mm thickness and an overly long lug-to-lug length, which makes me think it was designed with professional athletes in mind.

Priced over US$200,000, the Companion is the kind of watch you’re likely to see on the wrists of the brand’s celebrity clients at events like Art Basel Miami. In other words, it’s not for everyone. But the same can be said for KAWS’ artworks, which stoke both love and hate within the art world. This tension is part of what makes this provocative collaboration so interesting.

Greubel Forsey is back in form after a leadership shake-up that saw control revert to back to the brand’s founders. Widely respected for its maximalist approach to construction and finishing, Greubel Forsey recently debuted a new version of the GMT Balancier Convexe that takes the original concept and scales it down to a more wearable size of about 43 mm (depending on where you measure). Arguably the most finely finished sport watch in the industry, the GMT Balancier Convexe is a tour de force of design and craftsmanship.

The big news here is, somewhat ironically, the smaller case, which has been downsized to 42.9 mm at the mid-case. If that still sounds large, keep in mind the GMT features a very short lug-to-lug length and a proprietary strap that helps hug the wrist.

Functionally, the new version is the same as the original and feature a push-button hour jumper for crossing time zones, and even factors in daylight saving time using a two-tiered scale visible through the case back.

Functionality aside, the movement is an absolute visual spectacle, with generous amounts of black polished steel. The bridge supporting the inclined free-sprung balance is the star of the show, featuring rounded arms and perfectly crisp, symmetrical inner angles at each end.

For traditionalists, it doesn’t get any better than this. But watches don’t get much more expensive than this either – at over US$400,000, the GMT is a perfect capstone for our list of summer watches.

Initially launched as a unique piece in a crystallized titanium case for Only Watch 2023, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph was then added to the catalog, most recently as a limited edition in ceramic. Now the model returns in its original crystallized titanium livery, accented in lime green.

Under the hood is a high-beat Vaucher chronograph movement, also used by Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. The split-seconds is the flagship of the Monaco collection, impressive inside and out – with a price to match – but seemingly runs counter to the brand’s established direction of affordable sports watches.

Initial Thoughts

The latest iteration of the Monaco split-seconds is the best yet, price aside. The variants of the model released between the one-off for Only Watch and this felt incomplete without the crystallized titanium case.

The material is visually and technically interesting, and its resemblance to forged carbon fits the automotive theme; lime green accents notwithstanding, it’s a good-looking watch.

Image – TAG Heuer

A rattrapante is a natural fit for an auto racing-focused brand like TAG Heuer, but the ambitious CHF145,000 price is confusing, given TAG Heuer’s efforts toward making the Swiss-made tourbillon affordable. The Monaco split-seconds itself is excellent – the movement especially so – but an affordable rattrapante would be more in line with the brand’s recent direction.

While the base movement is shared with costlier Richard Mille models, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante, using the same base, is priced at CHF10,000 less, despite the gold case and hand-finished gold movement.

The unique version made for Only Watch 2023.

Avant-Garde Design

The watch lacks a traditional dial; instead, a sapphire chapter ring encircles the free-standing hour and minute registers, which are attached to the movement by a pair of soaring black bridges.

Image – TAG Heuer

The case is an angular, 41 mm titanium monobloc without a separate bezel, while the case back is a single, faceted and domed piece of sapphire, exposing the flanks of the movement. The sapphire-sandwich construction doesn’t compromise the water resistance, which stands at 100 m, and has a slimming effect, disguising the 15.2 mm height.

The start, stop, and reset buttons are in their conventional locations, while a button at nine o’clock controls the rattrapante. The crown and all three buttons are made of grained and polished grade five titanium, while the sandblasted case is crystallised titanium. As a result, it is lightweight for a big watch, weighing only 86 g, including the strap and clasp.

Image – TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer only refers to the material as TH-Titanium, but it’s better known as crystallized titanium, which has been used in knives and – mostly masculine – jewelry for some years now. To date, its use in watches has been the domain of affordable microbrands. The effect is not a surface treatment, rather, it’s the result of the material’s underlying morphology.

Titanium atoms form crystals with a cubic structure at high temperatures (above 900°C), while at lower temperatures the crystals will grow in a hexagonal pattern. With careful temperature control, it’s possible to start growing crystals in a cubic pattern, then lower the temperature to grow hexagonal crystals. The transition between these cubic and hexagonal regions result in the eye-catching pattern.

Multiple cases being treated at once. Image – TAG Heuer

Heat treatment of the case. Image – TAG Heuer

An F1 Engine

Rather than using the brand’s proprietary chronograph movements, TH81-00 is based on Vaucher’s cal. 6710, and is similar to the caliber RMAC4 used by Richard Mille.

Image – TAG Heuer

The TH81-00 is thoroughly modern and high-spec, with a vertical clutch and high frequency balance running at 36,000 beats per hour, which is particularly desirable as it gives the chronograph a resolution of 1/10th of a second.

Caliber TH81-00. Image – TAG Heuer

The bridges and plates are grade five titanium, a challenging material to decorate, which makes the finishing particularly impressive. The liquid smooth finish on the anglage was clearly done by hand, as was the “scraped” checkerboard pattern according to the brand.

The movement is identical to the one used for the Only Watch 2023 edition, seen here.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
Ref. CBW2185.FC8350

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Material: Crystallized titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: TH81-00
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and split-seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Calf leather with embossed  textile pattern and folding clasp

Limited edition: No, but limited production
Availability: May 2025
Price: CHF145,000

For more, visit Tagheuer.com.

TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction.

A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters — finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography — proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.”

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements—such as the checkered-flag pattern—that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs.

Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible.

Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, and the white ceramic case is a true testament to materials mastery.

F1-inspired

The 41 mm white ceramic case is meticulously hand-finished and provides water resistance of up to 30 meters. The Monaco incorporates several Formula 1-inspired details, including chronograph counters with an asphalt-like texture and official F1 typography.

This influence continues through to the split-seconds chronograph Calibre TH81-00 movement, which features hand-finished bevels and black mirror-polished screws. Its brushed, bi-directional rotor—shaped like the TAG Heuer shield—displays a hand-painted white and red kerb-inspired design, while the center bridge reveals a fully handmade checked-flag pattern.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1
Ref. CBW2190.FC8356

Case diameter: 41 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: White ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. TH81-00
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and split-seconds chronograph
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: White calf skin strap with folding buckle

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Now at TAG Heuer retailers and boutiques
Price: CHF155,000 before taxes

For more, visit Tagheuer.com.

A year after being tapped to head the LVMH Watch Division, Frédéric Arnault has been named the next chief executive of Loro Piana. Mr Arnault will assume the top job at the Italian maker of clothing and shoes in June 2025. Loro Piana is synonymous with “quiet luxury” for its emphasis on materials, restrained colours, and discreet branding, but it has become successful enough that the Loro Piana look is ironically recognisable while its trademark Summer Walk boat shoes have become footwear’s equivalent of the steel Rolex Daytona.

Though only 18 months long, Mr Arnault’s leadership of the French group’s watch brands saw a management renewal across all its three brands, namely TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith, as well as the announcement of a group-wide strategy for movement industrialisation and production. The period has also been a challenging one for the watch industry, with a sustained pullback in demand for watches that peaked during the pandemic.

According to insiders, Mr Arnault also played a leading role in sealing the decade-long sponsorship deal with Formula 1. His ascension to the top job at Loro Piana part of succession planning at LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group.

Mr Arnault’s successor at the watch division has yet to be announced, but his predecessor at Loro Piana, Damien Bertrand, will move onto the deputy chief executive job at Louis Vuitton.

Arguably TAG Heuer’s most interesting affordable chronograph, the Carrera Chronosprint features a unique variable-speed chronograph seconds that accelerates for the first 15 seconds of every elapsed minute, before slowing to complete the remainder of the 60 seconds.

Now TAG Heuer has introduced a new pair of variants in partnership with Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye that’s available in either steel or yellow gold. The new model sports a black dial modelled on the dash of the 1965 Porsche 911 that bears the traditional “Carrera” emblem at 12 o’clock.

Initial thoughts

The Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye demonstrates TAG Heuer’s strength in affordable chronographs. In technical terms, it’s the brand’s best chronograph in this price segment. The case is little large for my preference, but that’s typical of the current Carrera due to the thickness of the TH20 in-house movement.

Although I am typically indifferent to brand partnerships — they are more often than not simply for marketing buzz — this particular collaboration makes sense given TAG Heuer’s historical presence in motorsports, which it has just returned to starting with the 2025 Formula 1 season.

Retailing at US$10,250 in steel and US$24,600 in yellow gold, the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye is pricier than the base-model Carrera “Glassbox” by a margin of about 50%.

While that might seem a lot, the uncharge US$3,000 or so is worth it given the TH20-08 “Chronosprint” calibre. While the accelerating seconds hand is relatively straightforward in mechanical terms, it adds another dimension to a conventional chronograph that is a perfect fit for the auto-racing theme of the Carrera.

Inspired by the 911

The new Chronosprint maintains the specs of the original model that was unveiled in 2023. Modelled on the vintage Carrera case of the 1960s, the 42 mm case has been scaled up to accommodate the in-house movement and features alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces.

As is typical of the Carrera “Glassbox”, the case does away with the bezel. Instead, the domed crystal sits on the case middle, while the raised dial flange echoes the dome of the crystal and serves as an inner bezel.

The dial design draws inspiration from the Heuer dashboard timer found in the Porsche 911 of 1965. The beige lume mirrors the hue of the steering wheel, while the dial speckled finish is meant to evoke the metallic paintwork of the body.

The flange around the dial features a red scale extending to the 8.4 second mark, the time it took the Porsche 911 “147” to accelerate to 100 km/h in the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. This is also reflected in the “Chronosprint” function, where the chronograph seconds speeds up for the first 15 seconds, effectively covering the distance of the red scale.

Powering the watch is the automatic in-house TH20-08 that beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 80 hours of power reserve.

It incorporates the “Chronosprint” module that drives the central seconds hand at an accelerated pace for the first 15 seconds of each elapsed minute before slowing so that each complete revolution of the central seconds hand covers one minute. In addition, the movement features a steering wheel-inspired rotor.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye
Ref. CBS2015.EB0381 (stainless steel)
Ref. CBS2041.EB0382 (18k 3N yellow gold)

Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel or 18k 3N yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-08
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Steel model has a matching steel bracelet with additional black leather strap; gold model is delivered with a pair of leather straps in black and brown

Availability: Now at TAG Heuer retailers and boutiques
Price: US$10,250 in steel; US$24,600 in yellow gold

For more, visit tagheuer.com.

On the back of the hefty, 10-year LVMH-Formula 1 sponsorship deal signed last year, TAG Heuer now returns as the official timekeeper of Formula 1, just in time for the sport’s 75th anniversary in 2025.

This is a homecoming of sorts of TAG Heuer, which was official timekeeper for F1 for a decade from 1992. In fact, the brand’s roots in motorsports go back several decades — Heuer was the first luxury watch brand to display its logo on a Formula 1 car in 1969, and the first to sponsor a team in 1971 when it partnered with Scuderia Ferrari. And TAG Heuer famously signed Ayrton Senna as an ambassador in 1988, just before he became a champion driver.

Jack Heuer (centre, in blue) at Ferrari in Maranello

In fact, the brand name itself references F1: well before TAG Group acquired Heuer in 1985, the Saudi-owned group was already shareholder in McLaren and only sold its stake in the automaker and racing team last year.

TAG Heuer’s return to F1 comes at an opportune time, with the sport having evolved into a global entertainment franchise under the ownership of Liberty Media. According to F1, it now boasts an audience of 750 million fans, many of whom are drawn into the sport by the hit Netflix series, and also an upcoming film starring Brad Pitt.

Legendary Formula 1 champion Ayrton Senna was a longtime TAG Heuer ambassador up until his death in 1994. On the 30th anniversary of his passing, the Brazilian driver is coming back to the fore with TAG Heuer unveiling the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna just in time for the premiere of the Netflix series Senna.

Based on the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, the Senna edition is presented in titanium, carbon composite, and the colours of the Brazilian flag. It bears the driver’s emblem on the carbon composite and hour register at nine, while the case back depicts a helmeted Senna.

Senna himself frequently wore the TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25.706C multi-function, which will also be seen in the upcoming television series

Initial thoughts

TAG Heuer is in some ways an underdog – because of its many affordable offerings, its higher-end models sometimes don’t get enough attention. The Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, for instance, is a vintage-inspired but original design that’s appealing and powered by an in-house movement.

The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is an integrated chronograph with automatic winding, plus a flying tourbillon, albeit an industrial movement. The big and bold styling isn’t the retro-inspired design that Heuer enthusiasts appreciate, but the Senna edition is executed well and priced right.

Personally speaking, the Senna edition is not my style — there are too Senna elements in the design, unlike the low-key regular-production version. However, the watch itself is affordable as such complications go and the Senna name goes a long way in widening its appeal.

Value-proposition tourbillon

Measuring 44 mm in diameter, the case is alternating brushed and sandblasted titanium with a carbon composite tachymeter bezel. Both the crown and pushers are also titanium.

The dial is skeletonised to reveal the base plate that’s decorated with a chequered flag pattern. Like the case, the dial features blue, green, and yellow accents, a reference to Brazil’s flag. The elapsed hours sub-dial at nine o’clock contains a large Senna “S”, while the flying tourbillon is at six.

The sapphire back is printed with a visage of the legendary driver in his helmet. This partly obscures the self-winding TH20-09, which offers 65 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Senna
Ref. CBU5081.FT6274

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Grade-2 titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-09
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Blue integrated rubber strap with grade-2 titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: 500 pieces
Availability: At TAG Heuer boutiques and retailers starting November 2024
Price: CHF37,000

For more, visit tagheuer.com.

Having been a fait accompli since the summer, LVMH is now a key sponsor of Formula 1. Starting in 2025, the 10-year sponsorship deal will see the French luxury group become a top-level sponsor of F1. Several LVMH brands will be part of the sponsorship, including Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, and its drinks division Moët Hennessy that owns champagne makers like Moët & Chandon.

Coming just after Louis Vuitton’s high-profile presence at the 2024 Paris Olympics, the F1 sponsorship deepens the group’s involvement in sports and popular culture. Spearheaded by Frederic Arnault, the head of LVMH Watches, the deal is worth about €100 million annually according to an LVMH insider.

“For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1…”, said Mr Arnault, “We want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world.”

From left to right: Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1; Greg Maffei, President & CEO, Liberty Media; Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO, LVMH Group; and Frédéric Arnault, CEO, LVMH Watches

LVMH takes the place of Rolex as a “Global Partner” of Formula 1, the highest-level of sponsorship, putting the group alongside Amazon and Aramco. The deal was sealed as Formula 1’s owner, American entertainment giant Liberty Media, has successfully grown F1 beyond its traditional audience with new race locations like Las Vegas, a hit Netflix reality series, and an upcoming movie starring Brad Pitt.

Having become something of a tradition, TAG Heuer debuts a new Monaco chronograph just in time for the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Following last year’s edition in shades of grey, the 2024 edition is the Monaco Chronograph Racing Green. Equipped with the Sellita-derived Calibre 11, the new Monaco features chronograph registers in a dark green synonymous with motorsport, set against a clean silver dial.

Initial thoughts

Arguably TAG Heuer’s iconic chronograph, especially after Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans, the Monaco gets new livery that embodies its racing heritage. The tricolour dial in green, silver, and yellow is dressed in classic motorsports colours. The titanium case is also a nice touch, instead of conventional steel.

However, this Monaco is powered by the Sellita-derived and modular Calibre 11, instead of the in-house Heuer 02 that was found in last year’s equivalent Formula 1 edition. The rationale for the Calibre 11 is a logical one: it allows for an unorthodox nine o’clock crown that replicates the layout of the vintage Monaco, whereas the in-house calibre necessitates a conventional three o’clock position.

But the new Monaco still costs CHF9,100, which is less than the models with the Heuer 02 but not that much less. As a result, it’s not as good a value proposition as its counterparts with the in-house calibre, though it is an appealing execution in terms of colours and materials.

An old-school design

The familiar square Monaco case is in sandblasted titanium and retains its traditional dimensions of 39 mm wide and 14.35 mm thick. Like the original 1969 model, this sports a crown at nine o’clock.

TAG Heuer ambassador and Red Bull driver Max Verstappen with the new Monaco

Modelled closely on the vintage original, the silver, sun ray-brushed dial is meant to evoke the engine-turned dashboards in 1920s sports cars.

Sorting twin registers in racing green, the dial features horizontal baton indices, a key feature of the vintage original. The faceted, vertical baton at 12 is painted with a yellow “racing” stripe that matches the yellow chronograph seconds hand. Furthermore, the dial bears the historical “Heuer” logo, instead of the modern TAG Heuer emblem.

Inside is the Calibre 11, which is a Sellita SW300-1 with a chronograph module from Dubois-Depraz. It beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and has 40 hours of power reserve.

Because of the modular construction, the crown can be located at the nine o’clock position, while still retaining the pushers on the right side of the case. This preserves the unusual configuration of the vintage Monaco, which was dictated by the vintage Calibre 11 Chronomatic, one of the first-ever automatic chronograph movements.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green
Ref.CAW218E.FC6565

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 14.35 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Calibre 11
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Calfskin with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1000 pieces
Availability: At TAG Heuer boutiques, retailers and on Tagheuer.com starting September 2024
Price: CHF9,100

For more, visit Tagheuer.com.