Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. returns to a complication it once offered with the Pioneer Flying Hours, a new take on the wandering hours. The watch indicates the minutes on a central ring, while the hours seemingly jump from one window to the other. With this intriguing new display, the Flying Hours might just be being one of the most interesting jumping hours on the market. 

Initial thoughts

The Pioneer Flying Hours is not Moser’s first attempt at the wandering hours: the Endeavour Flying Hours was launched some seven years ago and an update on the historical complication. With new Pioneer, however, Moser manages to capture the mystique of both early wandering hours and mysterious clocks with its darting, wandering display.

It is a tidy and admittedly novel reinterpretation of the wandering hours, which will surely appeal to collectors. There is something poetic about the minutes scale moving continuously across shuttered apertures, its sweep much like a bridge between points in time, here represented spatially.

The combination of the sporty and large Pioneer case is also odd with the wandering hours, historically a complication associated with more formal, slim cases. At almost 43 mm, the case is large even for a sports watch.

And to nitpick: if there is anything objectionable from the get-go, that is the name. Strictly speaking, “Flying hours” describes a revolving platform that is only supported from below — like a flying tourbillon. Here the hour disks are stationary and, along with gear works, hidden under the dial, with only the minute scale visible on the dial.

The two models of the Pioneer Flying Hours are as different as they come. One version is in rose gold with blackened titanium inserts, while the other is dressed in steel. The rose gold version is paired with an aventurine dial, resulting in an interesting deep-space theme which actually fits the “mysterious” complication well. In comparison, the steel version feels a little bland and too industrial — which ironically underlines well the technical aspect of the complication. 

The revised complication

The wandering hours is the sort of pointless-yet-endearing complication that keeps mechanical watches interesting and appealing. The quirky time telling format first appeared clocks, then moved onto pocket watches, and in the modern day, wristwatches from established names like Audemars Piguet and even in creations by independents like F. P. Journe, proving its enduring charm.

The most interesting aspect of this Pioneer Flying Hours line lies in the implementation of the “flying” complication. In most wandering hours, a carousel rotates slowly around the dial, with the hours disk pointing to a minutes’ sector – the Audemars Piguet Starwheel is an example. As the hour passes, hidden star wheels and stationary fingers engage, slowly indexing the hours disk to the next position. The process is not instantaneous and is rather torque-intensive — meaning the timekeeping itself can be affected during this slow-ish change. 

With the Pioneer Flying Hours, Moser did away with this slow-moving revolving spectacle, choosing to conceal the hour disks and only display the current hour through dial apertures. Moser also found a way to make the change appear instantaneous, jumping from one hour to the next.

Interestingly, while one of the apertures displays the current hour, the other two are obscured by a shutter of sorts, which might be the trick to Moser’s “instant” hours change. While more details are not yet available, conceivably the hour disks change at the same slow pace as they did in the Endeavour model, while the shutter snaps instantly when the hour changes. As such, the shutter piece conceals the indexing of the hour disks and also leaves only the current hour visible.

As the central minutes’ sector sweeps the dial, making one full rotation every three hours, it reads the minutes against the “active” aperture showing the current hour. When the hour changes, the shutter snaps forward, the next aperture in the clockwise direction indicates the hour, becoming “active”, and the minutes sector now reads against it. 

Aventurine dial

The Pioneer Flying Hours makes its debut in two versions that are both well put together, although the fancy complication might be a little out of place in the sporty Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m.

The sci-fi-inspired rose gold example is limited to only 100 pieces. It has a dial of aventurine, which is a glass product, in which metallic particles are artificially introduced. The result is a midnight speckled-sky look, which is unique to each piece.

Here the dark blueish hue works very well with the complication, adding another layer of mystique. Moser opted for a dark minutes sector, which almost blends into the aventurine glass base, save for the contrast colour printed minute scale. Each hour aperture has a gilded frame, making the piece both ethereal and unexpectedly legible. 

The steel version is decidedly more industrial, with its clean, off-white aesthetic and Moser’s trademark fumé dial. The steel case is simpler in construction compared to its rose gold counterpart, which is embellished with technical looking DLC titanium inserts. 

Solid movement

Powering the Flying Hours is Moser’s in-house automatic HMC 240. The movement is consistent with Moser’s recent philosophy, going for more modern looks across its caliber range. In terms of finishing, Moser doesn’t disappoint, with impeccable machine finishing applied over the anthracite-coloured bridges. 

The movement also reflects a subtle turn towards expanded production. While Moser’s earlier in-house calibres comprised of double barrel architectures and superlative regulating organs, now the tendency is towards more standardised construction.

The HMC 240 is a modular movement, with the wandering hours module piggybacked on the HMC 201 caliber. The 3 Hz movement stores 72 hours of power reserve on a single barrel via its bi-directional winding rotor. The caliber is heavily yet tastefully skeletonised, leaving most of the going train and escapement visible. 

The free-sprung balance is paired with a flat Straumann hairspring made by Precision Engineering. The presence of a full balance bridge is welcome, especially since this is conceived as a sports watch.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Flying Hours
Ref. 3240-0900
Ref. 3240-1200

Diameter: 42.8 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Material: 5N red gold and titanium or steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 240
Functions: Jumping wandering hours, minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap

Limited edition:  Red gold limited to 100 pieces
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. retailers and online boutique
Price: CHF39,000 in red gold; CHF29,000 in steel

For more, visit h-moser.com.

H. Moser & Cie.’s only dive watch returns as the Pioneer “Elements of Time”, the result of an unexpected, but not unprecedented, collaboration with Azuki, an anime-inspired NFT, and American retailer The 1916 Company. Unsurprisingly given the digital nature of the collaboration, the watches will only be available online via raffle from Azuki.

Representing the four elements of earth, lightning, fire and water, Elements of Time features engraved fumé dials in four colourways. Each is limited to 24 watches in Pioneer Centre Seconds format, along with one unique Pioneer tourbillon per colour. All variants are titanium, matched with bracelet with the amenities you’d expect from a diver, including a micro-adjust clasp.

Initial Thoughts

While a new Pioneer with a rotating bezel would normally be a major release, you won’t find Elements of Time on Moser’s website. That’s because it’s a collaboration with Azuki, a non-fungible token (NFT). Azuki is Japanese for “red bean”, but Azuki is basically anime-style digital art on the blockchain.

But these are real watches – they can be collected at The 1916 Company’s physical stores – and more notably, sport of the most interesting fumé dials from Moser in a while.

This isn’t Moser’s first foray into the Web 3.0 world. Back in 2022, the brand launched the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, a watch that was essentially a physical QR code. The timing wasn’t the best as it debuted just as the NFT bubble popped.

With the air having gone out of the NFT market, the NFT aspect is incidental to the watches this time around. There is an NFC chip in the warranty card and minimal Azuki branding (in the form of a red bean at 12 o’clock and a case back engraving), which should give the watches broader appeal. In other words, these are appealing watches even absent the NFT connection.

The Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis. Image – H. Moser & Cie.

As for the watches themselves, they are Moser’s typical fare – well engineered watches with eye-catching minimalist dials, but possibly less refined than traditional haute horlogerie brands. The dearth of traditional dive watches from practitioners of “fine watchmaking”, especially indies, also helps these stand out.

I find the tourbillons most compelling, even if I’m ambivalent towards the genre, as it uses Moser’s trademark double hairsprings. Many Swiss tourbillons in the price range offer the bare minimum, focusing on the theatre of a tourbillon, so it’s good to see something more cerebral.

On a more emotional side, a unique piece from a respected brand has its own appeal, and these are priced significantly below non-unique sports watches with tourbillons from establishment brands like Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Another highlight is the slick animated short produced to promote the launch.

Don’t Call it a Diver

The Pioneer with a rotating bezel has already been launched in the past, but it’s a rare breed: only about 200 watches exist across three limited editions, half in 43 mm stainless steel cases and the other in 40 mm titanium cases.

Elements of Time follows the latter template of a compact case, in line with the current trend towards moderate sizes, but with a quartet of novel, textured fumé dials.

Moser won’t admit it, but the Pioneer Center Seconds Rotating bezel is a dive watch, and follows the codes of modern diver with a lumed dial, lumed unidirectional bezel, screw down crown, and metal bracelet.

It does break from convention with a deceptively un-lumed seconds hand and only 120 m of water resistance, which is modest by today’s standards but more than sufficient.

The standard Pioneer is typically strap-borne, but the dive iteration is paired with a simple, “H-link” titanium bracelet that’s nonetheless thoughtful designed. The clasp continues the fluting from the watch’s excavated flanks which helps with visual cohesiveness.

More usefully, the clasp contains a ratcheting quick-adjustment mechanism that’s a much appreciated quality of life feature.

To represent the four classical elements (though with lightning in place of air), Moser gave each colourway its own gradient finish and texture. Water is the standout for me, and prompts memories of swimming to the surface after jumping into a deep pool. The ethereal purple gradient of the lightning dials are another, bristling with a rhombus motif.

Pioneer Centre Seconds and Pioneer Tourbillon Water.

Pioneer Tourbillon and Pioneer Centre Seconds Lightning.

Fire sports a red-to-orange fumé dial with a guilloche meant to evoking dancing flames, while the hobnail pattern on the brown Earth dial elicits images of mountains and sharp rocks.

Pioneer Centre Seconds Fire and Pioneer Tourbillon Earth.

Competent Calibres

On the reverse of the time-only Pioneer is the HMC 200, a technically competent, if industrially decorated, automatic. It winds bidirectionally using the Magic Lever system invented by Seiko but now widely used in Swiss watchmaking. The rotor is base metal, probably tungsten, and not gold, despite the price point.

The HMC 804 powers the tourbillon models and hails from the same movement family, but a 18k red gold rotor along with the flying tourbillon.

Moser is one the few brands across the entire industry, let along independents, making its own “assortment”, namely the escapement, hairspring and balance wheel.

The fruits of its investment in manufacturing are immediately noticeable on the tourbillon, which is equipped with two opposing hairsprings, which theoretically maintain a constant centre of gravity across all vertical positions. The tourbillon assembly is also modular, allowing it to be assembled and serviced separately from the movement, then dropped in, shortening turnaround times.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. x Azuki Pioneer Centre Seconds “Elements of Time”
Ref. 3200-0504 (fire)
Ref. 3200-0505 (earth)
Ref. 3200-0506 (lightning)
Ref. 3200-0504 (water)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.4 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 200
Functions: Hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Titanium bracelet with quick adjust clasp

Limited edition: Yes, 24 of each
Availability: Online through Azuki, fulfilled by The 1916 Company
Price: US$25,000

H. Moser & Cie. x Azuki Pioneer Tourbillon “Elements of Time”
Ref. 3804-0501 (fire)
Ref. 3804-0502 (earth)
Ref. 3804-0503 (lightning)
Ref. 3804-0504 (water)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.4 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 804
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 3 days

Limited edition: Yes, each is unique
Availability: Online through Azuki, fulfilled by The 1916 Company
Price: US$75,000

For more, visit h-moser.azuki.com.

For its partnership with the Alpine Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. debuts a pair of firsts for the brand: the Streamliner Alpine Drivers Edition is its first skeletonized chronograph, and the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition is an entirely new model and the brand’s first true smartwatch – not counting the Swiss Alp Watch – with special digital functions tailored to the needs of an F1 team.

While the regular production Streamline Flyback Chronograph already has a racing aesthetic, it’s been dialed up to match to the Alpine team colors, with the blue-coated steel case being notable. And the digital Streamliner is more than just a commemorative watch. Most Formula 1 sponsorships are just that, but Moser decided it wanted to contribute a tool the team can rely on during the season, just as mechanical watches were decades ago. Both will be sold as a set, though the smartwatch will be available individually to owner’s of the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”.

Initial Thoughts

Nothing is off the table for Moser, whose past “concept” watches included a watch made from a cheese-filled composite, one covered in living plants, and the infamous Swiss Icons watch. Even with that in mind, a smartwatch is unexpected, though it makes sense given the brand’s stated goals with the collaboration.

Referring to the smartwatch, Chief executive Edouard Meylan says “we wanted to create a measuring instrument that meets the demands of a Formula 1 team, a device designed to accompany their missions and further improve their race against the clock, their quest for every precious second,” which can’t be achieved with a mechanical wristwatch that costs tens of thousands of dollars. Despite the “connected” movement from an external partner, the Mechanics Edition is still a true Streamliner that complements the Drivers Edition well.

The Drivers Edition, on the other hand, is basically the Streamliner chronograph in new livery – but the open-worked dial is different enough to give the watch an entirely different look. Besides aesthetics, the open dial also reveals the clever construction of the movement, which conceals the automatic rotor below the dial.

Drivers Edition

Both watches will be sold as a pair, limited to 200 sets priced at CHF59,000. In comparison, the standard Streamliner chronograph in steel with a conventional dial is priced at CHF45,000.

However, another 300 Streamliner smartwatches will be made. These will be available individually to owners of last year’s Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine, and will also be issued to members of the Alpine Racing team.

The Streamliner Alpine Drivers Edition is a skeletonized version of the brand’s Streamliner Flyback Chronograph. The ability to reset the chronograph while running is especially useful in the fast-paced world of Formula 1 racing.

Naturally, this version is in blue and white Alpine team livery. Specifically, the case is stainless steel, with a blue PVD treatment that’s also been applied to the buckle for the white rubber strap.

Made by Agenhor, a movement specialist that Moser part owns, the HMC 700 movement uses a dial-side winding rotor, which is now on full display. It’s also been given an anthracite finish, which pairs well with the automatic aesthetic.

According to Moser, the idea of an open dial came from the drivers at Alpine Motorsports themselves. The hands and dial use Globolight, essentially solid blocks of luminous material, which improves legibility. The V-shaped struts are inspired by the suspension of an F1 race car, while on the back, the central bridge is in the likeness of a racing helmet.

Mechanics Edition

The Drivers Edition is all well and good, but it isn’t very useful to the team. Moser chose to develop a second watch in parallel that would serve as a tool for the team, rather than a luxury for fans. The result is the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics edition, a smartwatch developed with help from Sequent, a Swiss smartwatchmaker. The brand claims that, unlike other connected watches, this one is made to last and won’t be e-waste in the next few years.

The “ana-digi” display combines an analogue dial similar to that found in the brand’s Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon with a discreet digital display that vanishes in standby mode.

On full charge, the watch will run in standby mode, with the screen off, for a year. But accessing the many additional features brings the power reserve down to around six hours. These include a 1/100th of a second chronograph, GMT/world timer, and perpetual calendar.

The F1-specific features, which require a Bluetooth connection, are more task-specific and include a schedule of upcoming races, race countdown, and push notifications with vibration.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Alpine Drivers Edition
Ref. 6907-1200

Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Material: Blue PVD stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 700
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Integrated white rubber strap

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. retailers
Price: CHF59,000 before taxes

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition
Ref. 6DI0-1200

Diameter: 42.6 mm
Height: 14.4 mm
Material: Steel with blue composite
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. DI0
Functions: Hours, minutes, Bluetooth, chronograph, GMT with country selection, perpetual calendar, Race mode
Frequency: 32,768 Hz
Power reserve: One year in standby mode, about six hours screen on time

Strap: Integrated blue rubber strap

Limited edition: 500 pieces
Availability: Paired with Drivers Edition

For more, visit h-moser.com

A boutique exclusive to celebrate the opening of its Menlo Park store in Silicon Valley, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold is perhaps the most extravagant iteration of H. Moser & Cie.’s sports watch to date.

This new iteration retains the same dimensions and specifications as its stainless steel predecessor, but is entirely in 18k yellow gold, giving it a somewhat retro feel that complements the “lobster” integrated bracelet.

Initial thoughts

Although the trend for integrated-bracelet sports watches has waned, the Streamliner still stands out as one of the better offerings in the category from independent watchmakers. It combines a distinctive design – rare in the segment – with mostly affordable pricing.

At CHF125,000, the new Streamliner Tourbillon is of course not one of the affordable models since it is entirely in gold, but it is a good looking watch. Arguably the only weakness of the model is the increasing number of high-end Streamliner models, both in precious metals and set with gemstones, which make this less unique than it would otherwise be.

Boutique exclusive

Apart from its all-yellow gold construction, the new Streamliner Tourbillon mirrors its stainless steel predecessor, featuring a 40 mm-wide and 12.1 mm-thick cushion-shaped case.

Visually, the focal point is the open-worked dial showcasing a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Faceted baton-style hour markers and hour and minute hands are plated in yellow gold, complementing the hue of the case. The hands incorporate inserts of Globolight, a luminous resin, giving them contrast against the anthracite-finished main plate and bridges.

Inside is the cal. HMC 814, the same movement found in other versions of the Streamliner tourbillon, though this version features a yellow gold rotor that matches the case. It beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers 72 hours of power reserve.

The calibre is extensively skeletonised, revealing most of the moving parts, including the coils of the mainspring and winding gears. It’s finished in the typical Moser style, which is neat, precise, and done mostly by machine but with a touch of manual decoration.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold
Ref. 6814-0700

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 814
Functions: Hours, minutes and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet in 18k yellow gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: At H. Moser & Cie. physical and online boutiques
Price: CHF125,000

For more information, visit H-Moser.com.

A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry.

Initial thoughts

The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch.

Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap).

Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record.

Burgundy gradient

A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treatment over a sun ray-brushed surface. The applied indices and hands match the red gold case, complemented by relatively subtle luminous accents.

An aperture at six o’clock reveals the one-minute flying tourbillon with a double Straumann hairspring – produced by Moser’s sister company – which breathes more concentrically thus improving accuracy and isochronism. Like Moser’s other top-of-the-line movements, this has a tourbillon regulator that’s configured as an interchangeable module, simplifying servicing and maintenance since the regulator can be swapped during servicing.

The watch is powered by the self-winding cal. HMC 805, which beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers three days of power reserve.

It’s the latest generation of Moser’s in-house tourbillon calibre and features open-worked bridges that reveal more of the underlying mechanics,accentuated by a contemporary grey finish that Moser applies to the movements in its sports watches, but the calibre still retains traditional Moser elements, like the double stripes on the bridges and an engraved coat of arms.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy
Ref. 3805-0400

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: 5N red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 805
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Green rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. retailers and online boutique
Price: CHF59,900

For more, visit h-moser.com.

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module.

Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish.

Initial thoughts

Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection.

The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre.

Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000).

Vintage styling

The Endeavour Chronograph is an unusual deviation from the Moser’s usual design philosophy, due in part to the fact that it was conceived together with William Massena of Massena Lab, the maker of collaborative editions.

It’s modelled on vintage Moser pocket watches, and also mid-20th century chronographs in general. The symmetrical “Compax” dial has twin registers with small seconds at three and a 45-minute counter at nine.

On the dial’s periphery is a tachymetric scale, while the 19th century Moser logo sits under 12 o’clock. To match the vintage aesthetic, the Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands is in a faux-vintage cream hue.

Though the design is not the usual Moser, the dial has the brand’s familiar fume finish. The “funky blue” dial is a deep metallic blue in the centre, but darkens to black on the edges.

The case is also standard Endeavour with flowing, recessed flanks. It measures 41 mm in diameter and 13.3 mm in thickness. Due to the chronograph module, the case is thicker than the average Moser, which is apparent on the wrist, though the case has been constructed to minimise the height.

The Endeavour Chronograph is powered by the HMC 220, which is the in-house HMC 200 automatic calibre plus a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module under the dial.

The movement beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers three days of power reserve. Finished with Moser stripes of alternating width, the movement features the a Straumann hairspring that’s made by Moser’s sister company.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax
Ref. 1220-1200

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 220
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Brown kudu strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. retailers and online boutique
Price: CHF25,000

For more, visit h-moser.com.

The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago.

The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand.

Initial thoughts

The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet.

The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial.

Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial and a competent in-house movement – but with a retrograde display.

Retrograde mechanics

The Retrograde Seconds is sized similar to existing Pioneer models, with chunky, sporty dimensions. The stainless steel case is 42.8 mm in diameter and 10.6 mm in thickness without the crystal; with the domed sapphire crystal, the height is significantly thicker at 14.2 mm.

Water resistant to 120 m, the case also features recessed flanks decorated with vertical ribbing patterns inspired by the intake vents of sports cars.

The midnight blue fumé dial is typical minimalist Moser with an “secret” logo just under 12 o’clock that’s printed in transparent lacquer. The flange around the edge of the dial is marked with luminous dots for the hours while the leaf-shaped hands are filled with Super-LumiNova.

The highlight is the 30-second retrograde counter that’s modelled on a speedometer. It’s partially skeletonised to reveal the finger and double-snail cam that trigger the 30-second jump of the hand.

The finger travels along the outline of the snail cam until it reaches the step on the snail, which causes the finger to drop and the seconds hand to jump back to zero. This process is driven by a small spring  just visible under the seconds hand axis. The spring, in turn, is connected to a rack that positions the seconds hand.

The Retrograde Seconds is powered by the HMC 250, an in-house calibre with a three-day power reserve. It is decorated with an anthracite finish that Moser now employs on its more modern designs.

The HMC 250 a reworked variant of the HMC 200, Moser’s workhorse automatic movement, with open-worked bridges to reveal the wheels. In addition, it’s fitted with an Agenhor retrograde seconds module on the front.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
Ref. 3250-1200

Case diameter: 42.8 mm
Case height: 10.6 mm without sapphire crystal; 14.2 mm with sapphire crystal
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 250
Functions: Hours, minutes, and retrograde seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator leather, rubber, or textile strap; or steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF19,900

For more, visit h-moser.com.

In celebration of its partnership with its retailer in Southeast Asia, H. Moser & Cie. has created the 20-piece Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch. Based on its signature sports chronograph, right down to the “lobster” bracelet, the Cortina edition gets a striking red fumé dial with an “invisible” Moser logo.

Initial thoughts

Though the Streamliner is one of Moser’s strongest sellers, the brand hasn’t done that many limited editions of the Streamliner chronograph, so it’s not a theme that’s been overdone. As a result, the Cortina edition stands out as one of the few iterations of the model.

And it also stands out in tangible terms: the red dial sets this apart from past Streamliner Chronographs that were all dressed in darker colours. At the same time, the smoked red dial is different from the usual dark blue or grey that’s the norm for integrated-bracelet sports watches.

More generally, collaborative timepieces are often marked with various logos, front and back, in an unambiguous illustration of the collaboration. In case of the Cortina edition, however, subtlety wins the day. The retailer’s logo has been omitted, and even the Moser logo is barely visible on the dial. The timepiece speaks for itself, rather than the collaboration, which is a good thing.

Priced at 83,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$64,000), the Streamliner Cortina edition costs about 8% more than the regular production in local currency terms (which include taxes). Given it’s the only Streamliner with a red fumé dial and limited to just 20 pieces, the premium is justified.

Red fumé

The Cortina edition is identical to the standard model in size, materials, and movement. The stainless steel case is 42.3 mm in diameter and 14.2 mm high. Water-resistant to 120 m, the case allows the chronograph functions to be used underwater.

Equipped with the trademark Streamliner integrated bracelet, the case features a screw-in crown at four and “bullhead” chronograph pushers at two and ten o’clock.

Finished with a radial brushing, the red fumé dial features a discreet H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer, leaving it visible only at certain angles.

The applied “60” at twelve o’clock is polished steel, while the seconds and minute scales are printed in luminous white. The hour and minute hands are equipped with inserts of Globolight, a luminous resin, for enhanced legibility in the dark.

Powering the watch is HMC 907, which was developed by Agenhor. A Geneva movement specialist now part owned by Moser, Agenhor’s flagship product is the AgenGraphe family of chronograph movements that includes the HMC 907.

One of the more innovative chronograph movements in contemporary watchmaking, the AgenGraphe is automatic though it doesn’t look it from the back. That’s because the rotor is concealed in-between the dial and movement.

The AgenGraphe also boasts other patented features like a horizontal clutch with friction wheels rather than toothed wheels for more precise meshing of the gears when starting the chronograph. It also has a column wheel, twin barrels and a 72-hours of power reserve.

Echoing the finish of other Streamliner movements, the HMC 907 has a contemporary decoration in grey rhodium plating and traditional Moser stripes of alternating width.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch Limited Edition
Ref. 6907-1203

Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 907
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Integrated bracelet in stainless steel

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: Now at Cortina Watch
Price: 83,000 Singapore dollars including GST

For more, visit h-moser.com

H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit.

Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph.

Initial thoughts

The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities.

This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph).

Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the regular production Moser perpetual calendar.

Fruit-flavoured

Retaining its signature minimalistic style, Moser’s creation is encased in a mirror-polished steel case that measures 42 mm in diameter.

As is often the case with Moser’s special editions, the highlight is the dial. The two-layer dial is made up of a purple-lacquered, sunburst-brushed base that is topped by a “maracuja yellow” grand feu enamel disc. The enamelled disc is sold 18k yellow gold and finished with a hammered texture that is visible through the translucent enamel.

Though this is a perpetual calendar, the display is in Moser’s trademark minimalist style. A tiny green hand in the centre indicates the months of the year, the big date sits at three o’clock, while the leaf-shaped hand at nine o’clock is the power reserve indicator.

The rest of the calendar indications are on the back, with the leap year display positioned on the barrel bridge of the manual-wind HMC 800. Offering seven days of power reserve, the movement features hacking seconds, double barrels, and Moser’s own Straumann hairspring contained within its proprietary interchangeable Moser escapement.

The in-house HMC 800

Dressed in identical colours but less elaborately executed, the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit has a steel case that’s 38.5 mm. Water resistant to 50 m, the case has only a single pusher at two, making it a mono-pusher chronograph.

The dial has a “Coarse Dégradé Amber” centre with a “Royal Purple” chapter ring and minute register. Like the Moser, the dial is devoid of logos. According to the brand, the two chronograph hands are tipped in are green to “symbolise the seed of passion” that grows in a watch collector.

Inside the open case back lies a manual-wind Sellita SW510 M. The movement features hacking seconds and cam-operated chronograph. It has a power reserve of 63 hours and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

Key facts and price

Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit
Ref. 03PFB

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW510 M
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and monopusher chronograph
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 63 hours

Strap: Black epsom calfskin leather strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces as part of the box set
Availability: Now at Moser boutiques and retailers

For more, visit underd0g.com.

H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit
Ref. 1800-1200

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 800
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve indicator, leap year indicator and perpetual calendar
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 7 days

Strap: Black alligator leather strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces as part of box set
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF59,000 for the box set including the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit

For more, visit h-moser.com.

Edouard Meylan took the helm of H. Moser & Cie. just over a decade ago, after the brand was acquired by his family. Together with his brother Bertrand, who leads the brand’s distribution, the chief executive of Moser has successfully turned around a brand that was in dire straits when the Meylans took charge. Industry talk at the time was that the brand’s founder, a dental implant billionaire, had sunk some CHF100 million into Moser.

Today Moser is an independent brand that’s widely regarded to be on sound footing. Despite the slowdown that is gradually taking hold in the luxury-watch industry, Moser will in all likelihood enjoy a longevity, unlike many of its peers in the independent watchmaking space.

Notably, neither Edouard Meylan nor his brother are watchmakers, instead they are entrepreneurs in the mould of Maximilian Büsser and Richard Mille. Mr Meylan’s business sensibilities are apparent, as we discover in the interview below. Amongst other things, he explains why the Streamliner is capped at a third of overall revenue, despite being a runaway bestseller. He also discusses the brand progressive vertical integration, as well as the possibility of expanding his family’s holdings beyond the duo of H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence.

Bertrand Meylan (left), and Edouard Meylan

The interview was edited for clarity and length.

SJX: Moser recently got into Formula 1 [with the Alpine F1 Team sponsorship], and I understand you just returned from a race.

Edouard Meylan (EM): We were in China, Miami, Monaco, and I was in Silverstone this weekend. It’s a great experience. The customers love it. F1 brings a lot of value and the first thing you’ll see change is perception [of our brand].

SJX: Most of the other watch brands involved in Formula One are much, much bigger. You’re probably the only independent brand sponsoring a Formula 1 team?

EM: Most of the other teams, Ferrari, McLaren, are also bigger [than Alpine F1 Team]. They are the underdogs, and we are the underdogs of watchmaking, so it’s a good match. They came to us with a wide spectrum for partnership, so it’s not only Formula 1, but also [World Endurance Championship] and road cars.

SJX: How did they come to you?

EM: The CEO of Renault is a big independent fan. What’s funny is that our father [Georges-Henri Meylan] is a big Alpine fan; he’s a collector who drives old Alpines.

SJX: Will be a Formula 1 watch that is designed from scratch in the future?

EM: That’s the main objective. This weekend we had a brainstorming session, we sat down, we started asking for ideas and started to sketch. We need to go fast if we want something for next year or the year after.

The first watch born of the F1 sponsorship, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”. Image – H. Moser & Cie.

SJX: Speaking of editions, you are in Singapore to launch the SHH edition. Tell us about it.

EM: We’ve been working with Sincere for 10 years now. And this year is a very special year for them because it’s their 70^th anniversary. We’ve been designing this watch for 18 months now.

When we started working on it, we both absolutely wanted a perpetual calendar, but we wanted to make it with a twist. Having this sporty watch with a purple enamel-hammered dial, a perpetual calendar, and in red gold – a real mix between a sporty but also elegant. It’s a good summary of what Moser stands for today.

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee. Image – Sincere Fine Watches

SJX: This perpetual calendar has been like your signature movement for almost 20 years now. How has the movement evolved over that time?

EM: A lot, but most people can’t tell the difference [as the upgrades are internal]. There’s probably a hundred parts that have been changed to make it more reliable and optimise assembly.

SJX: Even for me it still looks the same from the back.

EM: The centre-second perpetual calendar is different in terms of the construction and bridges but the difference here is hard to tell though the dimensions are a little different.

The classic Moser HMC 808 perpetual calendar movement. Image – Sincere Fine Watches

SJX: Is a redesign of the aesthetics that something that you are going to apply to the original perpetual movement?

Bertrand Meylan (BM): Good question. Eventually, maybe. The objective was to keep [the original] more traditional in terms of finishing, with [striped] bridges and less skeletonisation. It’s like what you would see in a pocket watch from the early 20th century, because that’s the original concept and we wanted to keep that. But for the Streamliner and other models that are more modern we wanted to bring a contemporary touch.

SJX: You’re saying Moser now has two different movement aesthetics, the modern and the traditional.

BM: That is correct. Whether we’re going to keep the traditional one is a question. For now, yes, especially in watches like this.

The modern take on the perpetual calendar movement, the HMC 812. Image – H. Moser & Cie.

SJX: Talking about movements, now you own Precision Engineering and Agenhor. How is that coming along?

EM: When we acquired Moser, it came with Precision Engineering, and we were making most of our movements already. We had some help from outside, like Andreas Strehler who were helping us with ideas, but the construction, development was done in-house.

We went to Agenhor when we launched the Streamliner Chronograph, because we felt the Agenhor movement is probably the best modern chronograph on the market. We had a great success with [the Streamliner Chronograph], which really helped bring that movement to the fore. There were other brands using it before, but we really brought it to everyone’s attention.

Now we are working on evolution of the chronograph movement, and Agenhor can do a lot of things that we can’t internally.

The HMC 902 developed by Agenhor, inside the Streamliner Chronograph

But we need to manage [key supplier] risk, so [the investment in Agenhor] is very strategic. We invested to make sure that they are financially stable. We just took a minority stake. Agenhor is still a family business and we want them to stay independent.

This is part of the overall strategy. We want to secure the supply chain and further vertical integrate. It’s a step-by-step process.

Now we are also looking at the habillage [encompassing dials, cases, bracelets, and crowns]. We have bought our own machines but put them in our bracelet supplier. So the bracelets for the Streamliner are made by our machines, but not within our company. We’re looking into dials also. The anglage is now done externally, but we are training people to do it internally.

At the same time, we have to be careful not to do everything. Because suddenly your costs can go very high very quickly. We need to do the things that make the difference. We need to master them, but also need to understand the risks.

The Streamliner Chronograph

SJX: When you do all the expansion, will you be growing your current factory or going somewhere else?

EM: We’re running out of space and we’re looking at a new factory for 2027 that’s double the size. In the same village [of Neuhausen] and a very nice location.

SJX: You mentioned dials. They are key to the Moser design philosophy. Are there any specific kind of dials that you want to do in-house, like enamel for instance?

EM: Not yet [for enamel], but I have undergone training so I can learn and understand what it takes, to understand the material, processes, complexity, investment. Now we will slowly integrate [enamelling into our factory].

SJX: You should make a limited edition with dials made by you. Ten watches made by the CEO.

EM: I have some pictures of the dials [that I made]. [The dials I made] were not very flat, but it’s a lot of work. [And another dial,] I burnt it. One or two seconds too long in the oven. [Laughs]

It was a fun experience. I might want to give our customers the chance to experience it too. It can even be at two-hour experience where you prepare your pigments, paint the dial, do it once or twice and see how it evolves and understand how complex it is to get the consistent result twice. Our head of development made a bright red dial but he couldn’t do it the same again.

The Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon with an enamel dial. Image – H. Moser & Cie.

SJX: Where did you learn to do enamel?

EM: There’s a master enameller in a village that is very close by, a lady that makes jewellery. The big difference with jewellery is you don’t need the same precision as for dials, but I wanted you to understand the techniques. The work she does also includes [plique-à-jour enamel] where there’s nothing behind it.

SJX: Earlier you mentioned the Streamliner, which is now your bestselling collection. What’s the direction of Moser now that you have the four collections?

EM: We have the four pillars: Endeavor, Heritage, Pioneer and Streamliner. The strength of a brand like Moser is that we have different offerings. It’s important to keep a balance between all four collections, as we know trends can evolve very quickly from one to another.

So we try to maintain the balance in both sales and production every year. We keep a good balance of 30% each for the Pioneer, Endeavour and Streamliner and then 10% for the Heritage. Our objective is to maintain this.

The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

SJX: You have avoided the pitfall of the integrated-bracelet sports watch becoming the majority of business.

EM:  Of course, Streamliner is a little bit more this year, maybe 34% [of sales], but it’s very important for us to avoid [the collection becoming dominant].

Now it’s also important strategically to think about the entry level. How do we keep an entry-level model? Prices are going up. There’s inflation and the Swiss franc is very strong. The hard work right now is to have interesting products in the entry- level segment for younger collectors.

SJX: What is your ideal entry-level price?

EM: Around CHF13,000. We raised it because of inflation but now we want to keep it there.

A lot of brands have the tendency to creep up over time. Our average prices can go up, which means we continue to have grand complications, but the entry-level has to remain as low as possible.

SJX: Why does the entry-level matter to you?

EM: Moser has always been very interesting as an entry into independent watchmaking. There is no other brand that can offer in-house movements and versatile products that are water resistant, like the Pioneer or Heritage, at this price point.

It’s important for us to continue to do that to capture the young collectors. And now we’re also trying to bring simple complications to market priced below CHF20,000.

The irreverent Swiss Alp Watch

SJX: Speaking of new products, for a couple of years you did concept watches that were quite funny. But you haven’t done one in some time.

EM: They were not funny. They were, I should say, statements. Some were funny, some were crazy.

The idea is to always to make a statement about something. For example when we did the Genesis, it was quite provocative. It was a high-end, luxury watch and we put a QR code on the on the sapphire crystal – a bold statement.

SJX: But you haven’t done one of these in some time.

EM: Well, we haven’t been to the big fairs [like Watches & Wonders] for some time. Such launches were usually linked to the big fairs. Last year we were not at the fair, so there was no reason for us to do it. We were back [at Watches & Wonders] this year, but we didn’t do it as we didn’t have the right idea.

There were also other things we want to talk about, like Formula 1. You have to be careful not to send too many messages.

Our concept launches were very focused as we didn’t have the budgets to do marketing activations. Now we have a bigger budget so we have to be clear, otherwise it becomes too much noise.

With a QR code for a face, the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis. Image – H. Moser & Cie.

SJX: Now you are running two brands. Besides Moser, you have Hautlence. Are there any plans to acquire more brands?

EM: It’s always a question of opportunities. But I think right now it’s the beginning where opportunities are starting to come about.

BM: We are not against the idea. But it needs to be the right brand, where we believe in the project and bring something on the table. It must make sense and complete what we are doing.

EM: Keep in mind that you cannot do the same thing twice, so we don’t want to create another Moser. We don’t want to cannibalise one for another, so it has to be different, or it even similar but we then find a different way to develop it.

We haven’t found one yet. I think the [valuations] are getting better now. Over the last two years, people were asking too much. 2025 will be a better year. And our priority is also more focus on our strategy and supply chain.

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